Thread: Nodular Iron Crankshaft

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hi every one! I am new to this site and i am working on a bbc402 with a Nodular Iron Crankshaft that is being turned and balanced right now. how much RPM's HP/Torq can i run on this crank and have it be a reliable street car? i have looked a round but found nuthing
the casting nuber is 3904815NF
2bolt 402
haven't got the cam yeat

NOS - how much i dont know?
9.5:1 comp
Eagle "SIR" 5140 Forged I-Beam Connecting Rods
Speed-Pro pistons
Professional Products Damper

they can take alot

Originally Posted by BBMonte

hi every one! I am new to this site and i am working on a bbc402 with a Nodular Iron Crankshaft that is being turned and balanced right now. how much RPM's HP/Torq can i run on this crank and have it be a reliable street car? i have looked a round but found nuthing
the casting nuber is 3904815NF
2bolt 402
haven't got the cam yeat

NOS - how much i dont know?
9.5:1 comp
Eagle "SIR" 5140 Forged I-Beam Connecting Rods
Speed-Pro pistons
Professional Products Damper

Easy 600+ hp.

so it would be ok to do a shot of nos and run it to 6000-6500 rpms as long as i dont push it past 600hp

I Concur with my esteemed colleague DR .E .ERIKSON i have used them and beat the hell out of them they will take a easily 550 HP

if you have not had any thing done to the crank i would grind all shape edges off the crank evey were with stones and then finish up with a sanding drums up to 80 git then and i sanded the counter weights with aDA and 80 grit and drums sanders i would tape off the oil seal and nose of the crank use rubber to keep the steel shot from hurting the seal and nose then off to get shot peen hits the crank and helps normalize the crank and you want to tape the journals off you do not want to hit them grinding . i like to radi the oil holes before i get the crank ground

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

if you have not had any thing done to the crank i would grind all shape edges off the crank evey were with stones and then finish up with a sanding drums up to 80 git then and i sanded the counter weights with aDA and 80 grit and drums sanders i would tape off the oil seal and nose of the crank use rubber to keep the steel shot from hurting the seal and nose then off to get shot peen hits the crank and helps normalize the crank and you want to tape the journals off you do not want to hit them grinding . i like to radi the oil holes before i get the crank ground

Well all they did so far is tank it. Ill stop over and talk to them about all that stuff. so how dues Eagle "SIR" 5140 Forged I-Beam Connecting Rods compare with others?

i have used the 4340 scat I beam cap screw bolts I never had anyone tell me that they pop out of the oilpan all this stuff the I beam s is a good replacement for mild builds the GM truck rod can take a hell of alot of power with good rod bolts. the size on the big end of alot of the rods is bigger then i like .but to setup the stock rods they are price rigth. it is hard to make any money to recon a stock set of chevy truck rods with ARP bolts

I use the Eagle I beam rods on my small block chevies. For the money you pay for the Eagle rod, it is a lot of rod that comes with new high strength bolts. You cannot even rebuild your stock rods to the price of a new set of eagle rods. Get em and run them, but be aware you will have to rebalance your whole bottom end. If you do all that grinding and sanding that Pat tells you to do you are going to have to rebalance anyway.

yeah it is at the shop now geting rebalance to the Eagle rods