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Thread: Wanted: Old car (before 1970) in NC area under $6,000
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '51 Chevy Fleetline and a Ratrod project
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    And just to let u know, you could probably sell the motor for 250-300 bucks if it is mechanicly sound, have him fire it up, listen for any nocking sounds. Ask him if you can feel the clutch depress and release, this can tell u if the clutch is good or not, it's got to feel nice and it should release smoothly, oh yeah, put it in reverse and move it back a foot or so then, do the same in a forward gear ( 1'st probably )
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  2. #47
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chrysler,49 Ford,66 F100,68 Lincoln
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    Yeah good idea man, any more tips? Also selling it is a good idea as well. But I might also just keep the engine in it until I blow it and then get rid of it. If not then I will clean it up nice and use Krylon and paint it and then just clean it up and sell it for around 300 or so depending on how clean it is, and same with the transmission.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  3. #48
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Use Dupli Engine enamel, silver for the trans and, flat black for the engine itself ( it hides imperfections or scratches ), gloss black would bring the scraches out so they could be seen very easily. The motor shouldent need any attention other than cleaning cause it only has 58,000 on it, it may leak a little oil out of the seals but, I say that mainly because the engine is 54 years old. I'd recomend just buying a 350 and sticking it in there with a TH350 slushbox with a lokar nostalgia 23" shifter on the floor. With the old Chevy 6's you have to actully try to blow it up, they wont go pop on there own, specially with only 58,000 so, you could use the 216 in it until you had the money for a 350, just keep in mind that they only have 92 HP and the car is 3100 pounds so, it's gonna be slllllooooowww, not as slow as the automatic model with the 235 but, you'd probably be lucky if you got 75 MPH out of it.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  4. #49
    Oldf100fordman's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 55 Ford F100 w/390,
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    216 cu in Chevy

     



    FMX Hellraiser

    Thagt 216 is a babbit bearing motor. The bearings are poured into the rod as molten metal then sized to the crank size. I am here to tell you it can be blown up very easy, especially if you drive the heck out of it. (I know cause my first one a 52, I blew up in 8 months of ownereship.) If it is a good running motor drive it easy while you get your V8 and trans and rear end ready to go in the car. Then do the swap and sell the motor and trans and rear axle. You cannot use the closed drive line rear axle that is in the car with a modern trans. If it is a good runner put it in Hemmings or The Old Car Trader or what ever and let a restorer buy the motor and trans on rear, etc, etc, etc, Just that I give you a little info.
    Duane S
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    On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust

  5. #50
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Also, I forgot to mention that the 216 will probably start hard, this is because being 6 volt system, there is less starting power and spark. You should go with Oldf100fordman's suggestion and drive the original motor easy just to make shure it was not going to blow.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  6. #51
    Oldf100fordman's Avatar
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    babbit bearings

     



    yeah, I forgot to mention those babbit bearings are inheritly soft as they are poured on the metal rods and sized. On insert bearing like all modern motors have (including the 235 that came with the powerglides in those years) are much harder and last much longer.
    Duane S
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    On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust

  7. #52
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Kewl, that means that the '50 chevy 4dr I'm getting woulden't have the bearing problem, cause it's got the 235 and Powerglide. Can you get performance parts for a 235 str8 6? I want to make a restorod and use all stock drivetrain but basicly, just rod the engine and restore the rest. I mistaked the 216 and the 235 cause I thought only the displacement changed, I did not know that the 216 had inferior bearing construction.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  8. #53
    Oldf100fordman's Avatar
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    Stovebolt Chevy Parts

     



    Yeah, that's the old rodder term for these old Chevy Sixes.


    Speedway Motors in Lincoln, NE (www.speedwaymotors.com) has a dual carb intake and a trible carb intake for these engines. Also Offy finned aluminum
    valve covers, mallory distributors and Fenton cast iron headers (wont rust or crack) I think Clifford Research (don't know their address) still has intakes, cams, headers, etc also. If you can find a stick set up for this vehicle that auto rearend is quite a bit numerically lower that a stick car and you can get decent speed out of the six banger. Hope any of this helps.
    Duane S
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    On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust

  9. #54
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  10. #55
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    matt

     



    got Clifford's url. http://www.cliffordperformance.com Good hunting. They got all kinds of six banger parts.
    Last edited by Oldf100fordman; 04-16-2004 at 12:15 PM.
    Duane S
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    On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust

  11. #56
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Just 1 more question, the guy that ownes the car says it needs a fuel pump diaphram but, will run, he says that all I would need to do is rebuild the pump, is rebuilding the pump somthing that I could do myself or should I seek a professional to do the job? Thanks for cliffords site, it's gonna help a lot.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  12. #57
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    Ay thanks a lot for the info man. I don't think I can go check the car now because my friend won't call back to take me and just dropped out on me. But yeah I wan't to try and check it out. I got a trailor so I would trailor the thing home. Also when I put a 350 or 454 in it I wan't to try and get aroung 450 to 500 horsepower... I know it will be lot's of money and all but this will be a yearly project or way longer so I will go buy a 350 or 454 and put it on the stand and work on it piece by piece with the 6 cylinder in the car still until I get the engine built. If I get the car then I plan on making a post for the car so people can post up ideas on how to get 450 to 500 horsepower and what parts to use or not use and tranny help and front and rear end help and how to get part's cheap. But anyways, ncranchero, I need help on finding this place where the car is. I here that it's 45 minutes from here and I don't know where to go. On Brookshire what free way do I take because isn't there like South and East one? I tried looking it up on Map Quest but can't find it. Any help on directions from providence near waxhaw would be great. Thanks.
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  13. #58
    Oldf100fordman's Avatar
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    Chevy Fuel Pump.

     



    Originally posted by Matt167
    Just 1 more question, the guy that ownes the car says it needs a fuel pump diaphram but, will run, he says that all I would need to do is rebuild the pump, is rebuilding the pump somthing that I could do myself or should I seek a professional to do the job? Thanks for cliffords site, it's gonna help a lot.


    As I recall those fuel pumps aren't hard to rebuild as they bolt the two halves together. But I wonder if you can find a diaphram kit at a parts store. Might be easier to find a complete rebuilt pump. I really haven't worked on these stovebolts since the 60's.
    Duane S
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    On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust

  14. #59
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    http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp...submit=Get+Map

    http://www.mapquest.com/directions/m...2fPUu6D1Y6s%3d

    In the first map you will see the Lincoln/Gaston line. On the right there is a road called Oregon Trail. It's just past Oregon Tr on the right. There is a bright red Mercedes for sale on the left side of the road and the '50 is on the right. Can't miss it if you make it this far.
    Geez, Waxhaw is farther out than I remember, haven't been there in years. You're near "Furnitue Factory Outlet World".
    My god, don't judge NC by WAXHAW!
    Steve
    '99 Mustang 35th
    '98 F150 SuperCab 4x4
    '08 E250 Super Duty

  15. #60
    ncranchero's Avatar
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    First map, do zoom level 8, third box down. It's NOT as ar down as the red star. Look for OREGON TRAIL right at the line.
    Last edited by ncranchero; 04-14-2004 at 03:10 PM.
    Steve
    '99 Mustang 35th
    '98 F150 SuperCab 4x4
    '08 E250 Super Duty

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