Anyone know of any that will stick to cloth? I need to replace some real chrome (too far gone) on my cloth interior. I have tried the exterior chrome molding, will not stick to cloth.
Thanks,
Jack
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Anyone know of any that will stick to cloth? I need to replace some real chrome (too far gone) on my cloth interior. I have tried the exterior chrome molding, will not stick to cloth.
Thanks,
Jack
Chrome mylar is the only thing that comes to mind. Not real chrome, but it has a mirror finish. I've never heard of chrome on cloth.
Yeah, my old DeSoto had chrome on the door panels. Was originally clip on.
Thanks for the info,
Jack
PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) might stick to cloth. This is the same stuff that is used to install trim and labels on new cars....a bit of heat helps it to bond. However, cloth presents a reduced contact area....I will go try and see if it bonds. We have PSA in 1" wide strips.....I think in the 0.010" thickness. Thicker would be better...much better. If it bonds, I can probably send you a bit....will the 1" wide work? If so, how long of strip to you need. Remember that gluing the stuff on with PSA will result in the chrome trim being "flexy" with the cloth.
mike in tucson
OK, did the experiment. I took a piece of aluminum (simulating the trim) and a shop towel (simulating your cloth upholstery). I put a 6" long x 1" wide strip of PSA on the aluminum and removed the release liner (paper backing). I applied the shop towel to the PSA and pressed it down. Next, I used a heat gun to heat the towel side of the stack and then rolled it down using a
2" diameter roller. The cloth stuck marginally, in shear it was pretty good and I could lift the aluminum with the towel. However, in peel, the towel pulled away easily. Normally, when we attach a engine controller to a heatsink (G10 to aluminum) the stick is instant and it does not pull apart.
Mike in Tucson
Thank you very much for going to so much effort Mike, but doesn't sound like the solution. When I bought the roll of chrome molding at Auto Zone, and it had 3M adhesive backing, I was sure I had hit a home run. But would not stick at all.
I really appreciate it,
Jack
That stuff should have PSA on it......were you able to apply heat and pressure? Usually, we heat to about 100 F or so to get the stuff to adhere. The cloth is probably not good enough surface to make good contact since the individual threads are relatively loose and pull away.
Is there a way to use the sticky to adhere the strip to a plastic push-in button? You could push the Christmas tree into the door panel thru the cloth and used the flat face of the Christmas tree to stick the chrome to.....but then, you would have to have a row of closely-spaced insert trees. Next thought....can you screw a strip of aluminum to the door thru the cloth....the aluminum strip is thin and about as wide as the chrome.....then stick the chrome to the aluminum....hidden screws.
All great ideas robot, couple I have considered, but haven't tried.
No, I did not heat. All I have is the wife's hair dryer, how hot do they get? I am sure I can borrow a heat gun if hair dryer not hot enough. I would like to try that first.
Jack
If the hair dryer feels hot to your hand, it is over 100 deg. However, I am inclined to think the stickup needs a smooth and firm surface to get good adhesion....How come chewing gum sticks to your upholstery so well and the adhesive doesnt? It's probably because the chewing gum gets into the fiber weave rather than laying on the surface. Maybe you can do a Google search for "gluing cloth to metal" or something similar.
Also thought of velcro but the thickness of the velcro would space the trim too far away from the cloth.
No, the hair dryer did not work.
I have some brown rubber molding used as weatherseal for windows and doors. Sticks to the fabric door panels just great. Can barely pull it off:(, but material much to thick to use.
That's a large part of the problem...everything that sticks to the upholstery is too thick.....like I said, chewing gum.....sticks to everything
i see headliners glued in with yellow permatex .. or JB weld will stick to everything .. i patched a cigarette hole in my cloth toyota seat with it
Ain't that a fact. I have small dab on my seat (grandson), it'll be there when rest of seat is gone.Quote:
Originally Posted by robot
Can you post a photo of what you are attempting to do? That may help with some creative thinking on possible solutions.
I will attempt to post a picture, haven't gotten that process down yet:confused:.Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrumm
I'll get back to you. Could not get er done :mad:.
Jack
Jack, I think your solution needs to include a way to pull the trim firmly against the cloth, indenting the trim into the cloth slightly so that it doesnt look like the trim is laying on top of the cloth.....such suggests a fastener to pull the trim into the cloth instead of a glue to hold the trim on top of the cloth. How thick is your trim piece? How wide? What material is it made from?
Not very thick, but also not very flexible. Is about 1/4 wide plastic chrome, adhesive backing molding like on exterior of newer vehicles. No fasteners, like way back when.
I tried it before using straight pins. That wasn't any fun, and the finished product did not meet my standards, which really aren't very high, or I would not have chosen a 4dr 48 DeSoto to Hot Rod**)!
Lynn,Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrumm
Still unable to post pictures. Checked your photos, beautiful '32. Is glass or steel car? I like it very much.
Jack
Jack, how hard or soft is the plastic? Is it something that you can somehow attach something like a PEM stud into using
epoxy?
Kinda hard. I think the 3M adhesive backing would hold clips, just don't where to start looking for clips. Clips need to be so I can insert into the fabric upholstery without damage. I went to Lowes earlier, could not find any clips. Did find some double backing, very thin velcro, and some very thin rubber weather seal. Haven't tried them yet Probably wait til 5PM to go out to the garage, so I can have me cold beverage or 3. Can't start til 5, or the wife might think I have a drinking problem ;)!
I'll try again??Attachment 50751Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrumm
I can't believe it!! Wish I knew what I did right?
Anyway, I want to put the chrome molding to cover the stitching in the gray at top, where the gray meets the burgundy, where the arm rest is.
Jack
Here is what I found, and it appears to be working just fine. Just experimented with 1 door, and has been about 17 hours.
It's called Peel & Stick Caulk Strip for tub & wall. This particular brand is Homax, and I found it at Lowes. It's 7/8" wide, but only 1/2 of the strip had adhesive backing, which was perfect when I cut the other 1/2 off with a razor. The strip is about the thickness of a piece of notebook paper, and after trimming off the unsticky side, width was perfect for the 1/2" chrome molding.
Making do with what you got, is definition of Hot Rodding, IMO.
I will let you know if it fails.
Thanks everyone, for chiming in and offering suggestions.
Jack
The main thing I would be concerned about is how the adhesive responds to heat as the inside of a car can get pretty hot in the summer.
I wonder if there is a way to find out what the mfgr. of the foam moulding is using as an adhesive? Maybe they i.d. the material in their web site.
Update and change.
I found my original stainless, which has a rolled bead, then on top of that is a flat piece of stainless that is suppose have window felt attached. I took off the door panels attached the stainless (after some modifications) with long staples, then bent (toenailed) the staples on back side of door panels to assure the stainless pieces will stay. I then found some different sticky back chrome molding that is excat same width as the flat section above the rolled bead (who could have guessed). I am confident it will stay stuck to the cleaned flat portion, and the rolled bead is exposed, and cleaned up great.
I think it turned out great and looks pretty doggone good:cool:.
