re- doing seats help..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33701
Well i am looking at these now. The front seats were measured, and come in real nice. Just need the back seat measured to see what happens. Same with the Camaros. The front seats should work fine.. Just the rear seat I will need to see what happens. if need be because of how far down it is to my driveshaft, and rear diferential I should be able to just cut down to even with the front of the riser, and do a right angle using 16 gauge sheet metal.. Al

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Originally Posted by slantback37

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33701
Well i am looking at these now. The front seats were measured, and come in real nice. Just need the back seat measured to see what happens. Same with the Camaros. The front seats should work fine.. Just the rear seat I will need to see what happens. if need be because of how far down it is to my driveshaft, and rear diferential I should be able to just cut down to even with the front of the riser, and do a right angle using 16 gauge sheet metal.. Al

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Those look pretty good, Al. Cutting up the rear floor might not help too much because it follows the contour of the frame back there. Maybe you have a friend or neighbor with a late model mustang you could check out for measurements and fitting that back seat. If not, a used car lot is bound to have one. Also, if you're bidding on those particular seats be sure to check the shipping cost from Georgia. That can get a little pricey.
Good luck!

No. Not bidding. Going to call the junkyard from work tomorrow. When I called before.. For cloth seats both front and rear would be $175. I would have to take them out.. No problem.. When I took out those van seats from there a couple of years ago it was -24 and ther was also a strong wind. I able to be inside, but someone had alread taken the doors.
From what I have found out today.. The 93-11 Mustang seats would work. The front seat on the 09 is close to what I have now. Just not as wide which is fine. The back seat is 40" wide. I figure I have 49" leaving about 1 1/2" total. Still waiting to see what the depth , and seat back is.. Al

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Originally Posted by slantback37

No. Not bidding. Going to call the junkyard from work tomorrow. When I called before.. For cloth seats both front and rear would be $175. I would have to take them out.. No problem.. When I took out those van seats from there a couple of years ago it was -24 and ther was also a strong wind. I able to be inside, but someone had alread taken the doors.
From what I have found out today.. The 93-11 Mustang seats would work. The front seat on the 09 is close to what I have now. Just not as wide which is fine. The back seat is 40" wide. I figure I have 49" leaving about 1 1/2" total. Still waiting to see what the depth , and seat back is.. Al

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The seat style, both front & rear, changed in '05 to the ones in your ebay link. They probably bolt into the previous years though. There are creative ways to fill up the gap on the sides of the back seat if the height is good. Hope it works for ya. Also hope it's not -24 when you go to pull them! LOL!
I get spoiled here. Went to the salvage yard this morning to get some parts for my truck. It was about 65 degrees. Last week it as 90. :)

No. Not -24. going to be 34 next Saturday. Might be snowing also. Eaiser to call first. I will have to look for the 93-04 seats first. if the rear seat sits to low.. A few shims here and there.. it would be kind of nice if I could raise the front about 3 1/2". I have set of Bose speakers I would like to put just under the seat in the riser.. I don't think I will have any problems with the back seat, or the front.. just have to get some first. Al

Slantback... loose the conversion van seats.... you'll hate them ... the foam is not of a high quality and neither is the frame. plus they are to tall for the car... if you're going to try your hand at a pair of buckets to recover for the first time try a set of honda or old toyota seats... and if you buy the beer I'll come over and help plus get a good chuckle at a newbe trying to sew for the first time... kind of like watching a baby walk ... or try... gotta start some where !! LOL :) honestly the van seats suck and get the others I mentioned and buy extra material...

ps. thats a good looking sedan too btw

Found seats.. 99 Chev Cavailer. In real good shape. I have to pull them from the car. No tares, but not as dark as I would like them to be. Still.. $75.00 for both front seats, and they will throw in the back seat free.. Back seat folds down. Good place to hide a box in the back of the seat for valuables. Is there any real good seat covers?/, or is there a GOOD dye out there. I used that water based crap, and it made the material real stiff.. Al

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Originally Posted by slantback37

Found seats.. 99 Chev Cavailer. In real good shape. I have to pull them from the car. No tares, but not as dark as I would like them to be. Still.. $75.00 for both front seats, and they will throw in the back seat free.. Back seat folds down. Good place to hide a box in the back of the seat for valuables. Is there any real good seat covers?/, or is there a GOOD dye out there. I used that water based crap, and it made the material real stiff.. Al

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Check these out, a buttload of choices... http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

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Originally Posted by randyr

Check these out, a buttload of choices... http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

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Those seat covers may all suck, I don't know. You can also google for possibilities. Congrats on the seats!

Yeash. I saw the suede ones for $35., but even here.. You get what you pay for. Now which is better.. Seat covers for $35., or seat covers for $170.?? I have to pull these out, and shampoo them, and extract them to see just what I have. The back seat uses some sort of plastic clip to hold the seat down. You have to pull them straight up. The rear is something dofferent. I will need to take the whole works in order to retro it to the 37's back. The whole thing has to be oiled up to make everything work. Looks like longer tracks for the seats to ride on. That would make sence. The passengers side slides more than the drivers. I guess you can just push it foward from the back seat and the seat will slide for easy access.

When putting in new seat risers.. How does that work.. I heard that your sight should be just above middle of the windshield.. This right?? Al

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Originally Posted by slantback37

Yeash. I saw the suede ones for $35., but even here.. You get what you pay for. Now which is better.. Seat covers for $35., or seat covers for $170.?? I have to pull these out, and shampoo them, and extract them to see just what I have. The back seat uses some sort of plastic clip to hold the seat down. You have to pull them straight up. The rear is something dofferent. I will need to take the whole works in order to retro it to the 37's back. The whole thing has to be oiled up to make everything work. Looks like longer tracks for the seats to ride on. That would make sence. The passengers side slides more than the drivers. I guess you can just push it foward from the back seat and the seat will slide for easy access.

When putting in new seat risers.. How does that work.. I heard that your sight should be just above middle of the windshield.. This right?? Al

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It's safe to assume that a set of suede seat covers for $35 probably isn't going to be worth the time it takes to put them on.

As for risers, I'd say mock the seats up on boards/blocks in the car to figure out what is the most comfortable for you with your height, body type, steering column position, pedals, etc. Take into account anybody else who might be driving the car (like your wife) and make sure the seat can be adjusted so she can also drive the car comfortably. Then take your measurements and build your risers.

Ok.. I will start by using 2x4's under both tracks. if a piece of 2x4 worked.. Could I use that??, or would pieces of 2x4 steel conduit be the better?? I have even seen 13/16" sockets used on all four cornors.. Al

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Originally Posted by slantback37

Ok.. I will start by using 2x4's under both tracks. if a piece of 2x4 worked.. Could I use that??, or would pieces of 2x4 steel conduit be the better?? I have even seen 13/16" sockets used on all four cornors.. Al

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Personally, I would definitely not use wood for the seat risers or the sockets idea either. You expressed concerns for safety by insisting the seats have high backs so apply the same amount of safety concern to how the seat is mounted to the floor. You should also add a 1/16" or 1/8" steel plate under the floor at each mounting bolt on the front seats to reinforce the floor.

I have these washers under the floor made from 12 gauge steel. A grade-8 bolt goes threw each. I could even cut down that riser I have under the van seats now. I will have to see how high I sit first.. Al

I made my risers out of angle iron. I welded up a "box" with a slight angle (later remembering that the seats have a tilt adjustment :LOL:). Part of the problem I ran into is that the front holes on the seat slider are not in line with the rear holes (which are farther apart). In other words simply using 2x4 steel down each side of the seats would not bolt to all four holes. So this box lines up with all four holes. My next problem after thinking I was done welding and painting those boxes is that the two holes on each side closest to the doors do not have room for a plate under the floor. The front hole needs to be on the edge of the frame below and I think the rear hole might go through the frame, but instead of hoping I am going to weld another two pieces accross the bottom of the boxes so I can drill through the floor a little more towards the middle of the car and use the plates I got from Juliano's. Pricey, but they come with grade 8 bolts and probably saved a day of my labor cutting 8 steel plates and welding nuts on. I need to get this thing on the road!! :eek:

Just some of my own thoughts that may help you.

I have one by conduit under the floor. I went right threw it. Should be strong. Not sure with the new seats that I will be putting in.

I need to know about line of sight.. Where should I be looking when I have the new seats in?? If a line were in the middle of the windshield.. Where should my line of sight be??

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Originally Posted by slantback37

I have one by conduit under the floor. I went right threw it. Should be strong. Not sure with the new seats that I will be putting in.

I need to know about line of sight.. Where should I be looking when I have the new seats in?? If a line were in the middle of the windshield.. Where should my line of sight be??

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I don't know that there is a hard & fast rule on that one, Al. You'll just have to apply a little common sense. You know that the windshield isn't very tall. If you sit too low you can't see over the steering wheel. If you sit too high you'll see nothing but the top of the hood. Somewhere in between will be a height that feels right to you. Consider the side windows, back windows & blind spots, too. Try the seats at different heights using the temporary blocks until you find the one that works best, feels safe and looks good. Then build the permanent risers to mount it solid.

Is this to high??

Oh, and as far as the rear window goes.. I have a back-up camera. The little screen is mounted in the hole of the header panel.. Al

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Originally Posted by slantback37

Is this to high??

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Are those the Cavalier seats or the old ones? Either way, you can't really tell if they are too high by these pics. They are high back seats so of course the seat back is going to be high. How high are you when you sit in them? Is your head up in the ceiling or can you see nicely through the windshield? Can you see well out the side windows? Can you look over your shoulder and see traffic if you're changing lanes?

Those are the old seats. When I sit in there.. I look at a little above center. i am not sure how far the headliner comes down. For a measurement.. I have 14" from the floor to the top of the seat, and 33" from the floor to the top of the headrest.. Al

Like Randy said I don't think anyone can help you dial in exactly how high to mount the seats from this forum. You mentioned the headliner though and that's a valid point because I built those boxes then later on stuck the headlinder in from the 98 VW sunroof in the car and my head was on the headliner so I had to cut the boxes down over an inch, but that headliner also cuts basically straight across and doesn't curve with the roof much. I think when you get it right you'll know...too high and you can't see out, too low and you can't rest your arm on window sill and your knees feel like they're pointing up in the air. Build it how it's comfortable for you..you're building the car and you're going to be driving it! :cool:

Will do..
I will send pics. after I get the seats.. Al

Well I have the seats home. They smell, so this afternoon they will be shampooed. I put one of the seats in and sat on it. I can look right threw the steering wheel. I am using wood right now, but I am thinking I will need to go up about 3 1/2" above where it is now. Other than that. The seats are kind of a gray/black. So now the door panels will be gray/black ultrasuede..

Would "C" channel work to raise the seats??

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Originally Posted by slantback37

Would "C" channel work to raise the seats??

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These would work better, IMO.
http://www.jasonlangdon.com/seatrisers/

Nice, but $98.00 is kind of steep for me.. The seat riser on the seats I have now already have the proper slant to it. The bottom of the riser was on a flat floor in that Cavalier. I just need to raise the works up about 3 1/2 to 4". I would end up about 2 1/2" lower than the van seats.. Al

If the slant is perfect, then yes, C channel would work fine to raise the seats. Easy to bolt in with the open side, and plenty strong for the application.

Thanks.. Al

I figured it out. I just bought two pieces of 4' 2x2 steel conduit. I also bought a 4' piece of 1/4" steel plate. I can get 8 6" pieces out of it. enough to do the two bucket seats. I will weld the two pieces of 8" 2x2 together, and bolt the plate to both sections as well. Then bolt up threw the floor with the grade 8 bolts. grade 8's will also be used from the seat perches to the 2x2's.. Oh. and it cost me less than $40. for the works.. Al

Post some pics as you go along....:)

Will do.. Al