If it is surface rust, I would simply spray it with rust converter and then paint it with rust encapsulater.Quote:
Originally Posted by falconvan
www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions.html
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If it is surface rust, I would simply spray it with rust converter and then paint it with rust encapsulater.Quote:
Originally Posted by falconvan
www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions.html
:whacked: yup!Quote:
Originally Posted by RECOVERY ROOM
I'm of the same mind I guess,I just don't see near $2200 on the inside of most T-buckets[that one looks better then most],there's only two door panels with a top lip ,rug and a seat. Ok the last time I worked at a seat cover and boat top shop was in 1959,but it an't that hard IMHO,seems it can be done for $500,but then I'm old and still think $1 is at lest 50centsQuote:
Originally Posted by LIFESTYLZ
Well after reading this whole thread I thought I'd present my opinion.
I got run out of the last upholstery shop because I demanded a fixed price and a fixed delivery date. Absolutely no project car. in the shop and out ASAP. 14 days or no go. The car has new oak roof bows, all the new tack strips are in, I have a temporary carpet installed just the way I want it, the insulation is installed, all the wiring is in, interior lights, seat belts, floor tunnel, kick panels and moldings are ready.
I had the car painted under the same terms except 30 days due to time for paint process. No problem as this was discussed up front.
That said I went and spent the last 6 months studying the upholstery tech for cars. 4-6 hours every night. Hundreds of sites. Serious study with the intent of doing this job myself. Material costs money, some cost a lot more than others.
It's not uncommon to find Ultra leather for $105 to $125 per yard 54 inches wide. Other fabrics and vinyl are from $4 to $30 or so per yard. some come 60 inches wide. Understand that many materials are directional in that they stretch one way but not much the other so you may not get the panels you think you will without buying a lot more material than you would think.
Sewing machines are about $1000 maybe a little less depending on condition and make. anyone know how to thread one?? You may not get a manual with it. Don't expect one. If you are lucky there may be one on line. Be carful what you down load. there are 'traps'
I bought a very nice machine in near new condition after much shopping. these are industrial machines made for operators who know what they are doing. 3000 stiches per minute...500 inches per minutes. Either on or off . It is not easy to slip the clutch on these. A servo motor will cost another $200 or so. Good buy.
Needles and thread are an expense but still more stuff. How do you make windlace...know what it is??? How do you attach it.. Know how to hang the headliner?? Know how to attach this thing?? How do you install the edge or binding on carpet?? know what sewing 'in the ditch is'?? How do you get the headliner tight and smooth.???
These are thing the U shops do all the time.
When you bring your car into the U shop it better be completely ready for them or you will pay a lot for them to do work which they are not equiped or well versed in. They are not especially interested in replacing all of your roof bows and brackets or repairing rotted out tack strips. Oh you cut all that junk out did you!!!! haha you just added a couple grand to the job.
The shop rates ran from $35-$75/ hour. It took me 40 hours to make all the roof bows out of premium oak...$125 in material alone and there are lots of cut and glued joints as the wood does not come in wide enough sections to make it in one piece. Cut fitted and mounted. Sounds like a lot of time but I don't sit around drinking coffee and talking cruising. I have top notch shop equipment too but it just takes a lot of fitting, sanding and shaping to get the things right. I also 'upholstered' the headliner with plastic to make sure the shape is what I wanted and that it was indeed possible to do what I wanted. this is one area that you can save some cash on if you get the shop to tell you what they want.
Paper backing boards don't work as noted above. Lots of shops like this stuff as it is easy to work with. Get it wet and you have a mess. If you live where it is hot and humid it will fail. I have some that wrinkled up just storing it in the garage over the winter. Where is the car going to be stored over the winter....in the garage so you can have a problem. I use it to make patterns then toss it. aluminum is nice but more difficult to work with. ABS plastic works great as you can cut and glue it easily and it is pretty crack resistant.
Anyway this is just an insight to what you can get into. If you can afford to just drop the car off and have it upholstered great. but if you want ot at least do some of it yourself plan on readin up on how this stuff goes together.
I went thru the local upholstery shops here and they are just like the paint shops. Everybody wants to get your $$$ and have your car in the shop for months. I finally got fed up with it and bought a nice used industrial sewing machine and a bunch of accessories. I then spent a few months learnning enough to do the job myself to my satisfaction.
This is not for everyone...you may simply not have the patience to do this....no offense. Sewing thru your finger with an industrial sewing machine is probably the most painfull injury you will ever have. Nothing like having dig around trying to find you scissors after sewing your finger to the fabric to cut the thread meanwhile bleeding all over your project. Dang that hurt even to think about it now.
Just the design of the pieces so they fit is beyond most guys I think. You have to plan ahead and once started you are commited. Sewing up a bunch of Ultra Leather and getting backed into a blind corner is not a lot of fun at $100 a yard.
So the shops get pretty pricy as you are paying for their talent and expertise. But be carefull and demand a finish date. I started right out demanding 4 weeks. I did this with paint too. Next time I will just buy every piece of protective equipment and a breathable air supply and do the job myself....I'll be money ahead for sure. I have no patience with shops that want your $$$ up front and your car for endless hours of work.
Some one said "well it took you a couple months to learn this and no work was done on the car" Yeah well it also took 5 yr to finish engineering school, 4 yr for tech school and 3yr apprentice to learn a lifetime of background for my careers. I'd say a pretty short learing curve for my upholstery ed.
The bottom line is keep pestering the shops and make sure you have an iron clad contract before you start. If they balk go elsewhere but get it in writing and signed before you commit.
I'd go with a new stretch vinyl before leather ....JMHO.
Talk about dumb. I didn't go back and re-read enough of this thread to see my last post. So sorry for the rants. I just hve some strong feeling about this.
So Bent wings ... where can one find the photos of this interior of your ??
I don't do deadlines. If somebody wants it done in XXX amount of time I'll just recommend a couple different shops they should check with.... The first time a customer calls and "demands" to know when their car will be done they get a warning. The 2nd time they do it, they get told to come over with their trailer cuz their car will be sitting in the alley.... If people have the expertise to know how long the job should take, then they should also have the expertise to do it themselves!!!!!
This ain't Jiffy Lube!!!!!!!!!!!!
so I quess we aren't going to be blessed with photo's of your glorious car's interior eh Bentwigs ??
Teach yourself to do it. That is what I did. I hired out the seat and had him sew the coverings for the garnish moldings and console since I don't sew. Everything else is glued, and I did that myself. It is not that hard. It just takes a lot of planning and patience.
That's basically what I did. Made a friend at a uphol. shop and he helped me get materials. Things I couldn't do I hired him. He gave great advice and direction.Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrumm
Chris (my wife) sewed up all the interior for my 53 ford wagon and I put it in..The headliner I bough. It just takes time if you rush it thats what it will look like. Since my knee replacement I'm a bit slower but it gets done.
Has anyone ever used plastic for the panels? I'm considering using it because it forms well to contours. The stuff I'm thinking of is about 1/8th inch thick.
Rod Doors (now defunct) used 1/8 inch plastic panels for interior door as well as other things. I don't see a problem using it if you can make it conform.
Use aluminum..It is much easier IMO. We use .040 or.050. It keeps the shape you want
tracey, i've followed your work for some time and just wanted to give you your deserved pat on the back. you do top shelf work my friend. wish like hell you were closer to texas. :( i've been screwed on the last 4 cars . i can not figure out the upholstery shops here. they lie like hell or just do shitty work. the 37 i just did for a friend spent 8 months in a shop. one bs story after another. my fault because after 2 months i should have pulled it from the shop. i am determined to learn to sew now :3dSMILE:
anyway kudos to you and your crew .
shine
Something is wrong with a shop that keeps a car very long. A competent shop has limited space and usually does one, two, or three cars at a time.....even the old-time Tijuana shops did something like two cars a day. A competent shop wants to get your car done, out the door, and your payment in hand. You should not have to "demand" a speedy job, they should dictate the project speed and should tell you the turn-around ballpark time up front....they are professional and they know how long it takes them. For materials, you might need to pay them some upfront $$ to get the material in hand before the upholstery begins.....that's reasonable. What should a nice interior take???....$15K and three-four weeks?
Heres a couple done in less than 3 days
@ a very hi end shop, but with outstanding quality and very fair pricing.
Ron "The Sticher" Mangus
Ok. I'm interested. Is Ron located close to you....in Duncan area?Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
David
No, He's in California, used him for over 20 years before moving to OK last year.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
But have found a comparable trimmer (recommened by Ron) close by.
http://ronmangusinteriors.com/home.php
He certainly has a great reputation for quality work.
Yer right about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by robot
Ridler winners, AMBR winners, Super Chevy winners.
You name it he's done it.
And a GREAT GUY to boot.
"My brother with a differant mother"
David, since you are in Arkansas, have you checked with Paul Atkins? He is in Alabama.
Paul Atkins Interiors 1
Paul Atkins is a great one but he is also very high $$$$$.Quote:
Originally Posted by rumrumm
Mike
Hey David,Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
You ought to call Kenny Davis over in Rogers. Last year he told me he had a young guy in town that he was feeding work to, and he needed to keep him occupied so he didn't get snapped up by one of the bigger shops. He used to come on here occasionally (KennyD) but I have not seen his name lately. Did see a reference to an interior guy, James Carter in Rogers, who did a Willys coupe for Kenny, but not sure that's the guy. I know I've seen a web page for Kenny Davis Hot Rods in the past, but it seems to be gone??