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I just got a new engine installed in my 1970 C10 and took it for my first stroll around the block. The clutch pedal nearly pushes to the floor and releases almost as soon as i let pressure off of the pedal. Its got a brand spanking new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and throwout bearing on it. The adjusting rod that attaches just in front of the bell housing is almost adjusted all the way out. Is there a rod or linkage inside the cab that can adjust it some more?
on my 69 c10 there is a solid rod from the clutch pedal to the bellcrank than an adjustable rod between it an the clutchfork.
do you have this arrangement
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...e/DSC02001.jpg
not a good photo but the solid rod is not in place at the moment- it comes out of the rubber grommet and onto the bellcrank which is between the mtr an chassis.
if you have this arrangement then you may have left the cast iron piece off the end of the bottom adjusting rod- its about an inch long an fits between the rodend an the clutchfork.
can you post some pics of underneath?
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You probably need to replace the pivot bushings
Give me a few minutes I will have some pictures I think I have the same set up.
From LMC Truck, a pictorial of all the linkage pieces involved - Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
this isn't the best picture its hard to get into position to get a good picture, but the nut next to the oil filter is the adjustment nuts for the clutch pedal as far as i can tell.
I figured it out I had to do a "custom job" It will work for a few weeks before I start the big project this winter
It's what hot rodders do, make stuff work. Good job. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Lefcrak
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well done-- the other thing I found with mine was the upper none adjustable rod was severely worn on its pivit points and I had to build it up with weld. its probably about the same amount as your washers , so I would recommend checking that at some stage.
love the pictures-keep it up
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Thanks I learn something new about my truck every day
Hey i'm mike a new member
In my experience your Z bar welds gave up or maybe you got the wrong throw out bearings. Chevy makes 2, one is 1 7\8‘s other is 1 1\4 . Wrong one. and your pedal free travel goes south.
Don't know about your particular setup, but I have seen guys put the Z bar in backwards, throwing the arm ratios all wrong. Just a thought......
The throwout bearing is correct I made sure of that before installing it. I think what changed how my clutch pedal worked is I went from a 70's - 70's 350 to a mid 90's 350 the pressure plate was a different thickness than the older one. It still fit the truck fine but it did change things slightly.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeselcamino
That solves the mystery. Because of the lever ratio of the clutch fork, a very small difference in pressure plate thickness is multiplied at the outer end. Fabricating the longer rod was exactly the right solution to the problem. Good job, and nice closure even with the time that's passed. You may save someone a lot of head scratching down the road. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefcrak
My most satisfying experience....ever....was with a '73 shortbed stepside pickup that I purchased a few years ago. The clutch was toast, so I pulled the granny 4-speed (heavy, heavy, heavy) and had the flywheel resurfaced at Arizona Clutch and Brake, followed by a new bronze bushing in the crank, new Centerforce pressure plate, clutch disc and throwout bearing and every piece of clutch linkage on the truck. As I said in the first sentence of this post, that truck was the best driving vehicle I have ever owned, at least as far as the clutch was concerned. Smooth as silk.
And by the way, packing the old pilot bushing with grease and using a trans mainshaft or other shaft the O.D. of the bearing I.D. to bang on the grease will absolutely hydraulic the old bushing out of the crank, no fret, no sweat.
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I like it! I have made so many "custom" parts over the years - many intended to be temporary have been in use for ever! As my father used to say, "Good ol' Yankee injunuity wins when the stores are all closed!"Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefcrak
Well I believe in this case that the problem is with the issue of the pressure plate/throw out bearing and not correcting it at that point is not the way to go-with the leverage/geometry of the throw out arm being probably 4 to 1, patching the system somewhere else will just end up with the throw out arm bottoming out against the trans case/bellhousing prematurely-
There are 5 different areas of vital specs in that clutch system with 8 or 9 items/locations for wear and as it gets closer to the clutch pressure plate arms the more critical it becomes------
In this case it doesn't seem to be necessarily a wear problem but a parts choice not correct for the vehicle.
The method to correct this adjustment is probably the pivot height in the bellhousing and that's where the washers would of worked best.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...sing+arm+pivot
If I decide to get back under it and tinker on it some more I will make sure that it is mounted correctly.
I am currently building a short box frame that will have a 454 and 600TKO mounted on it and build up the bed when thats ready I will throw my cab off the long bed and drive away with an almost brand new truck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton