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Would one of the Heat Sink Type transmission coolers be sufficient for a stock 350 Turbo with a 225 HP SBC? These coolers can be mounted on the frame near the trans and don't need a fan. I don't have room for a cooler in front of the radiator.
Derale Cooling Products 13260 - Derale Performance Heat Sink Transmission Coolers - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Yep. The double pass ones are a little better but they all work as long as they are somewhat in the airflow when moving. We've used them a few times with good results.
Don
Here is how I mounted the same cooler you show on my 23.
It will work fine, but I will also say 225hp and a 350 really will not need a cooler. Plenty of your combos running the highways just fine. If you are not towing and do not have a high stall converter no real need for a cooler.
I have a single pass version on my T Bucket and it seems to work fine. Mine is mounted sideways on my frame as that is all I had room for. You can see where I had to mount mine in the top left of the picture. Not an ideal location, but it seems to work fine. :)
Hate to disagree guys but they don't work as efficiently as a proper matrix type, in those lightweight T's you won't see a lot of heat unless you have a hi stall convertor, in anything else i would use a proper cooler.
Some guys just loop the line, Steve, not sure how those work, but the double pass types shown are way better than the ones that go into the radiator tank. On the one in my 23 I could put my hand on it after running and it was just slightly warm.
Don
All to often we add a cooler never installing a trans temp gauge still driving blind to what is going on.
Hey Don Snr. does the cat aid the cooling and did you remove that extra before you sold the T??? Hey Guys, have an excellent Christmas guys and don't eat too much eh......
Back on the subject of coolers:eek:\
This is what I have - 24" double pass, on the outside of the frame rails and in the air path. I do have a temp gauge on the transmission and to date, never have seen over 180-185 degrees on a hot day.
Attachment 52311
If I were running a drag car this is the kind I would install, as they tend to really get hot from hi stall convertors and hard usage.
Don
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Dave, is that the only cooler for the trans or are you also using the cooler in the radiator? The reason I'm asking is, my PRC radiator didn't include a trans cooler in the lower tank and I'm going to have to use an auxiliary cooler like yours and Don's.
Mike
Mike - that's all I'm using. I still have the one in the bottom of the Walker radiator that I can add to the system if I ever see 200++ degree tranny temp on a regular basis
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Any thoughts on running 2 of these things on my frame rails for a 496CI with a 4L80E tranny with a stock stall converter?
I have no space in front of my condensor and a custom aluminum rad w/o a built in cooler.
Thanks Dave, that's great to hear, I feel much better knowing you and Don have used these successfully as standalone coolers.
Mike
Pugsy - Two series would work well - maybe a single pass feeding into a double or two doubles with the plumbing connections facing each other to cut down on the amount of tube runs.Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
A question to Don Jr - have you had any problems with that starter solenoid exposed like that. One of my winter projects is to clean up the trunk and that's one of my considerations along with maybe moving the battery underneath if I can find enough clear space.
Mike - add a $15-$20 temp sender matching your gauges from Egauges to your trans oil pan and a SPDT switch and you can use your water temp gauge to monitor the ATF temperature with a flick of the finger.
Must say not a fan of the fined alum tube, most of them seem to live out of any air flow, yes the fins dissipate some heat however they will lack in function without airflow. The poster says he has no room on the front side, so here is another mount option he might consider, this locates the cooler behind the radiator and plumbs into the radiators cooler.
Dave, thanks for the tip!Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Pugsy, if you have the need to use 2 coolers, this cooler from Bob Drake might fill the need and be easier to plumb.
Mike
[QUOTE=IC2;447103]Pugsy - A question to Don Jr - have you had any problems with that starter solenoid exposed like that. One of my winter projects is to clean up the trunk and that's one of my considerations along with maybe moving the battery underneath if I can find enough clear space.
In case Don doesn't see this I'll answer. No, he hasn't had any issues with it mounted there. I have the one on my 27 in the same place and it has been on there for over 20 years. In fact, when I freshened up the car last year I reused the same solenoid I put on it originally, it was still in good shape. From what I could see rain water never seemed to splash up in that area as there was dry dust on everything right there.
Don
I agree Don, my point was that they are not as efficient as a normal matrix type, as you rightly have said the in rad type are poor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
Gary its virtualy impossible to overcool an automatic trans. I nearly always run a trans temp gauge as auto trans cost to rebuild, thats how i know the matrix type are more efficeint.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1gary
Two of the 18" units just might do the trick. That gives 6' of cooler.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike52
Thanks.
I'm odd man out.The plate style coolers are more likely to clog than the tube style and that is a proven fact on all of our tow vehicles traveling over 20yrs as a vendor to sell at swap meets.
Hey, Sorry I missed this.
I would think the traditional cooler is more efficient than these cylinder types. I do not have a temp gauge on my trans on the t but would like to install one to see how this cooler is doing.
No problems at all with my starter solenoid mounted on the frame as pops said. Sorry I missed that question. Don Jr.
I have babied my Tranny from day one, in the summer the Rad boiled over (from the tranny)...I have since installed a cooler infront of the rad, and still looped into the rads cooler lines...temps are still 195, that is babying the vehicle, as soon as I get rough with her, she gets hot....fast...Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
I want to bypass the Rad all together and get, what I see in your post, and fan driven cooler that is mountable anywhere, I have been so programmed to thinking that things have to be the way they were engineered, i.e., factory... You guys have beautiful vehicles, and have great ideas and improvising techniques...really gets me thinking...also I like the SPDT Switch, but I would incorporate another Gauge, and install the Sending Unit into a manifold, at the OUT-PUT of the Tranny Cooler Line and one at the IN-PUT and switch back and forth, or just use both guages to monitor how effective the cooling is...
I love this fan though... where do you buy them? or what brand is that one?
If your looking for a Fan assisted cooler Spal do fans from 4" diameter up, also you will find small fans on most motorcycles/mopeds etc
Also 12V Computer fans are used a lot as they consume very little power.
This is the setup on my 32 roadster, inside the scoop there are 2 x 5" PC fans on a 5" x 14" matrix which are switched on when the trans reaches 180F, i've not seen it go over 180F yet.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...t/SNV14657.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeShow01
nice thinking, resourceful is another word, PC fans would work very well and are easy to find.
