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Just bought a BW T-10 off ebay...supposedly rebuilt. Painted nice blue color...appears to be a Falcon/Comet/Ranchero tranny, according to the Hurst drawing charts of the side view. Have one problem though...the front bearing retainer is cracked and I need to get a replacement. I see some on ebay for the Super T-10 and also for a Chevy T-10. Does anybody know if either one will fit this 1963-1965 transmission? There is a casting number on the part...W T850-6E if that helps. Thanks!
To save a lot of time (and probably money in the long run!) call these guys:
http://www.drivetrain.com
They really know their stuff and they stock a very deep inventory of T-10 parts. Look on the picture - identity the part and call their 800.216.1632 number. They are really good and patient as well.
Good Luck,
Glenn
Hi Glenn,
Thanks alot...got in touch with Dave and he's calling me back on Monday with the part compatibility. Has 2-3 in stock. This tranny is being put in my 52 F1 behind a blown flathead and I don't want to take it out again when the throwout bearing falls apart from rubbing on the cracked snout on the retainer. Been there before! :)
Thanks again,
Tom
Found a 25 spline yoke on ebay from KajunJon.com. Brand new in box! Returning the front bearing retainer to the ebay rebuilder (I assume to replace with a good one!). Getting anxious about putting this in...just want to shift the flathead through those beautiful 4 gears! :)
Located shift linkage on ebay....Hurst no longer makes the "installation kit" for this transmission. Still makes the shifter part but not the linkage...hmmnn very strange. Also located a shifter arm to fit the linkage. Hooked up the linkage yesterday and waiting on the arm. Getting close! :)
Got the shifter today and the bearing retainer is on its way. I'll be ready to pull the old one out and get this one installed next month. I'll take pix. Still need a new clutch disk and we'll see about an adaptor when I get the old one out. Driveshaft needs to be shortened too. Lotsa work left to do.
Now that I have the shifter installed, is there a process of setting the shifter linkage correctly on the bench? There is about 3/4" of adjustment slot in each of the three arms and I'm sure there is a "right" way to adjust them on the bench. Any help would be appreciated!
Just found the thread with the solution. And found the 1/4" hole to align the shifter arms. Thanks Club Hot Rod!!!
Here's the tranny hooked up to the flathead bellhousing. Had to drill new holes for the top 2 and weld two ears for the bottom two. '67 Mustang clutch disc and sleeved the bearing retainer "snout" so as to fit the flathead throwout bearing. Installing into the 52 truck tomorrow to find other mods to do.
Nice setup, should work great!
Looks really nice though I don't recall any linkage that I had on one of those trannys running up hill like that - most were about parallel with the ground. Of course, CRS come into play .... more then occasionally nowadays:whacked:
Hmmm... Could the linkage arms possibly be upside down on the shifter forks???
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
That's my guess - (but I was wrong one other time this year:LOL::LOL:)
Hmmmnnnnn....you mean the shifter arms on the tranny are maybe upside down? Well...could be...I got this thing sent to me with the arms in the "up" position, so I don't really know. Interesting though..I know you guys are much more knowledgeable than I about these things. That would really be funny if they are upside down! :)) Wonder how I can tell (other than shift when it's in the truck!!!!).
They lined up so nicely with the shift linkage in the neutral postion with the 1/4" drill bit inserted into the hole. Just looking at it...if the arms were shifted 180*, the linkage arms might not be long enough to fit...see what I mean?
Just went out and flipped the arms 180* and they don't adjust properly. Can't align them to the hole and they just jam the output shaft. Turned them back around and neutral is easily found & the the output yoke turns in neutral again. So much for CW (I guess!?) They looked right when they were flipped, but just couldn't align them with the 1/4" hole like I could before.
Heck, I don't remember either--maybe look on the Hurst site and see if they have anything definitive on how the arms go????
It's been a lot of years but I think the 3-4 lever should be flipped over so the step moves the shift rod more in line with the shifter and that may be true for the 1-2 arm also now all the hurst shifters I have owned did not use slip type rod adj. like those hurst used a threaded rod with 2 nuts and a cleaves with a pin that went through a nylon bushing and a hole that a e shaped spring clip went through I also believe the shift arms should be down I started thinking while typing this post and went back and looked no way is this a hurst shifter I think its some sort if a factory shifter with some mismatched shift rods and arms I hate to piss in your cheeri Os but I don't think you will vary happy with set up SORRY ....ted
Did not Hurst shifters have stops front and rear. Can the shifter be moved up. I went on ebay and looked at complete units and it appeared the shifter was higher on the trans. ? is does it appear to be going into gears?
This is what I just 'picked off' the Hurst web site:
http://www.hurst-shifters.com/hurst-...atalog_web.swf
See page 11 in the above. This is what I would expect to see on a T-10.
Below, a T10 shifter
This is not a hurst shifter. The linkage rods are no longer carried by Hurst, Jegs, Summit, etc. Only the shifter is available. The rods and base were bought off ebay in new condition. The shifter handle was also ebay new. I contacted the man who sold me the trans and the shifter arms are supposed to be up as I have them. Found another trans on ebay (a Saginaw however) and the arms are up. So, we'll see what happens when I put it in gear! :)) Thanks for all the replies...gives me much food for thought, though!
The shifter is mounted to the engine and fits like a glove. The shifter arms are in the up position....like they are supposed to be (see T-10 pictures in parts for sale section!). The engine is back in the truck and I am fabbing a new crossmember next week when I get the square tubing from my welder buddy in Orlando on Tuesday.
Got the tranny in the truck... fit like I planned it! :) Hays clutch disc for a mustang and a new pilot bearing and everything is "go". Built a rear trannny mount out of 1" steel tubing, welded solid to another piece of 1" to give me a 1" x 2" mount. Pictures are attached.
Update: Drove the truck with the 4-speed and it worked "okay". After a couple of short trips, the clutch began to operate erratically by not engaging and engaging properly. Sticking and not allowing me to shift into gear from a start. Jacked up the truck again and noticed one of my "ears" I had welded....broke off. Damn! Back to square one. So, I ordered a QuickTime bellhousing from Speedway that adapts the T-10 to the flathead. Just received it today and I realize I need a clutch fork to actuate the throwout bearing. Has anyone got experience in this conversion? Speedway, QuickTime and Lakewood can only offer vague suggestions on the way to do this. I will work this fork with a master/slave hydraulic system when I get it together. Thanks for any help you can give me.
How about one of the hydraulic throw out bearings?
Don
Yea....that might be the way to go now...just didn't want to have to pull the tranny to replace the slave if it started leaking. But with as little driving time I put into this truck, it should last forever!
Have decided to send back the Quicktime bellhousing....just too many "fabrications" to make it work. I don't want to have to buy new disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch fork, hydraulic master/slave cylinders, etc. and re-invent the clutch. Flathead Jack has an adapter that will fit and allow me to use all the original clutch stuff I have invested in already. Done deal...ordering when I pull the engine out and look everything over. Stay tuned! :)
Waiting with baited breath! LOL..
Adapter came tonight...looks pretty good, but I'll have to have the bearing retainer outside diameter turned down, or have the adapter plate turned out to fit. Just another little bump in the road! :)