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I have a rebuilt C-6 I took out of a 77 F350 that when cold will start out in second and the when warn wants to start out in third,it will manually up and downshift fine but not automaticly. The only thing I have done to the trans since removal from the donor truck is change the fluid and add a Lokar shifter,I puut in type f fluid but since it was rebuilt should I have put in dextron. Jeff
The kickdown linkage isn't adjusted right. Do you even have a kickdown?
It does not have any kickdown linkage hooked to the carb and the lever on the trans moves freely and not hung up,I did remove the Lokar shifter as it was a little tough getting on and I did find out I had it on wrong but the trans still does not want to downshift automaticly. It attaches to one of the bolts holding on the plate for the governor and I though it might be putting pressure on the case and I did tap around the governor in case it was stuck since the trans had sat a couple years after rmoving from the donor vehicle Jeff
I talked to the local trans shop and was told it sounds like the governor is sticking,it did sit for a couple years with the tailshaft exposed and most of the fliud drained so it looks like if it wont unstick i will have to remove the tailshaft and repair it. Jeff
An ounce or two of brake fluid might work wonders for that...
While we are on the subject of kickdown cables for c-6 trannies, I have a rebuilt 71, and was wondering where on the transmission housing does the kick down go? I'm pretty sure when I get around to installing it with the new engine I'd be able to figure out, but thought a picture is worth a thousand words! Anyone have a photo?:D
It's a lightweight piece of metal that goes from the carb linkage to the lever on
the same shaft as the shift linkage of the trans.
Hope that helps without a picture
Sounds like it makes sense. I'm off tomorrow, so I'll take a look! Thanks.:)
The one on my pickup is a C shaped curve piece.... but it didn't come with a kickdown rod, so I suppose I'll have to either build one or use a cable of some sort.....
Trans is working better with some miles put on it and I will be buying a Lokar kick down cable (it has a edelbrock carb) to see if it improves with it hooked up.
Sounds good. Got the lokar matched set for mine too. Nice cables and linkage made for the edelbrock carb setup, but boy they are pricey!
Stovens; It's just like Shoprat said, I just went out in my shop and looked at mine.
I was expecting the one end to have long slot in it for adjustment like the old dodge 727 torqflight did.
But it just has a hole at either end of it, mine seams to be made of a copper type tube.
And it is only as big around as my little finger, If some one tells me how to post a photo
I'll bring it in and snap some photo's of it. Kurt
Kurt try this link on posting a picture. I hope it makes sense, if not let me know and I will clarify.
http://clubhotrod.com/forums/showthr...099#post343099
I haven't had a kickdown rod on my 57 for 30 years and it sure hasn't bothered anything.
I just pull it down a hole when I want to downshift.
I have run C-4s and C-6s before without the kickdown hooked up with no problems before but others had said its important to be hooked up so I would rather hook it up and se if it works better before pulling the trans again.
Yeah it should work fine without the kick down hooked up... As far as the downshift problem,the governer is hanging up. A quick easy fix is get it running about 20 mph down the road and very quickly and carefully bump it in and out of park a couple times,(be darned careful to not hit reverse and for sure don't hold it in park). This will rattle the heck out of the governer and usually frees it right up. An old tranny guy showed me this trick years ago after the governer stuck on a fresh build c-4.