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10-25-2007 01:40 PM #1
How much converter for hi-po/ daily driver?
vehicle will have below 400 HP with 411 rear gear.The motor is SBC with what you would consider a street hi-performance build. I want enough converter for good performance but more concerned about easy driving from traffic light to traffic light.
How much converter stall would I want? Thanks,Jerry."On a r-e-e-e-e-al,,,,qu-i-i-i-i-i-et night,,,,,,,,(whisper),,,,,,,, you can hear a Ford rust!!!"
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10-25-2007 02:00 PM #2
its hard to choose a converter without all the engine and drivetrain components, such as compression, cam specs, carb cfm, and rear gear. with specs given i would check the TCI breakaway line. here is a link with a chart for a few other street converters. read a few and it will give a better idea of what might suit you best.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...47572_-1_10555
Live everyday like it were your last, someday it will be.
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10-25-2007 02:11 PM #3
I run an old 10" B&M on the street behind a 429 Ford. I love it, it's got
355's with 275X60's. It was a Super Holeshot back in the day. I ran it at
the Drags till I got a good 8". The car weighs 3900 lbs...plenty of cam,carb
etc for the street
Ron
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10-25-2007 02:31 PM #4
Really depends on the power band of your cam... We usually like to pick stall just about right at the peak of the torque curve. Of course, the looser it is, the less efficient which results in poorer cruising mpg and more transmission heat. I'm guessing you'll probably want to be in the 3000-3500 range in a 10" converter but we can make a better guess if you have your cam specs...
-Chris
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01-19-2008 03:19 PM #5
Heres my cents, if you want to drive it anywhere anytime you want that converter to lock (no longer stall) at cruising speed with 4:11 rear gear and your probably running tire dia. around 27" at 65 mph your rpm's will be 3,324.I don't know about you but that seem a little high,not to mention expensive on the gas mpg. because a 3500rpm stall will constantly be slipping a little,which also creates heat and you will need a trans. cooler to keep things from smoking.Here is the math formula for gear ratio to rpm (mph x gear ratio x 336 divided by tire dia.)if you have a overdrive trans. 30% is the standard so the math would be (mph x gear ratio x .70 x 336 divided by tire dia.)
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01-19-2008 06:54 PM #6
With your 411 gear helping-out a 3000 stall should work out real well . Also run a trans cooler . I run a 2800 stall with a 355 SB and a 373 gear/for now . COOL
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01-19-2008 06:57 PM #7
10-25-2007....Boy, I hope he has a converter in it by nowWhat if the "Hokey Pokey" is what it's really all about?
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01-19-2008 07:10 PM #8
Originally Posted by nitrowarrior
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01-19-2008 07:17 PM #9
hhmmm.....don't have that problem here.....but it would drive me batty to let any project so close to finishing sit around for too long.What if the "Hokey Pokey" is what it's really all about?
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01-19-2008 07:27 PM #10
When its cold out I do cylinder head porting and assemble work . And rebuild and trick carbs in my heated basment . No time lost .
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Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance