Can you feel the shift points on your Lokar?

On the truck we just got it has a 23" lokar shifter, cool setup. I'm wondering if those of you that have the same rig can really feel when you are in the next gear? granted I have only driven it a couple of times (3 exactly, total of about 40-50 miles) and haven't played with it a lot, but it seems easy to jump 2nd or miss Drive and slide into nuetral (did that twice).

Thinking about installing their LED indicator in the dash when it gets to the gauges stage, although I don't really like the LED idea.

Red

I have only shifted mine on the engine stand with no power to it, but yes, I feel the detents are a little vague. My Sons Genie is just about the same feel, so I guess this is the nature of the beast. I think the long handles contribute to this, due to the leverage advantage, maybe.

I really see little difference between Genie and Lokar, qualitywise, just two different ways of doing the detents between the two companies.

Don

Thanks Don, glad that it isn't just me. I think you are right, that long lever probably makes a big difference.

Red

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

I have only shifted mine on the engine stand with no power to it, but yes, I feel the detents are a little vague. My Sons Genie is just about the same feel, so I guess this is the nature of the beast. I think the long handles contribute to this, due to the leverage advantage, maybe.

I really see little difference between Genie and Lokar, qualitywise, just two different ways of doing the detents between the two companies.

Don

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Count your blessings Fellas.I installed a B&M hammer (rachet style) in the 34 and the shift from park (700r4) requires a lot of muscle and you can go to drive mode (scary) once it releases real easy.The shift indicator(LED) is not functioning because the cable is doubling up and not slipping in the housing.The whole system seems to be hard to move.I have checked the cable routing and all seems to be within the suggested assy.instructions. Has any had similar problems?

Don In Austin

I've often wondered if the detent's are strong enough to hold the super long shifter and say a hand grenade shift knob when the car hit's some rough road's.

Ron

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Originally Posted by Ron B.

I've often wondered if the detent's are strong enough to hold the super long shifter and say a hand grenade shift knob when the car hit's some rough road's.

Ron

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There was just a thread on another forum where a guy said he hit a big pothole and the Genie shifter jumped into reverse (:eek: ) and he ran off the road. Something goofy there, because it would seem the shifter would want to drop down, into one of the lower gears, if anything.

When I read that, I was glad I scrapped my homebuilt shifter idea on my T project. That was one of my concerns, possibly bumping the shifter with my arm and going into the wrong gear while driving. I'm kind of a Klutz anyway.

Don

I had a shifter out of a mustang in my 36 Plymouth. It worked great but I didn't like the looks of it. So, I went with Gennie Shifter. The detents were so vague that it was a problem. I bought a Lokar and while taking out the Gennie noticed a couple of nuts had become loose. That was long enough ago that I don't remimber which ones. Since I had the Lokar I went ahead and put it in. It also has vague dents but much better than the Gennie. I agree with the long handle leverage theory.

Used to. But mine got screwed up a little while ago and now I only have Park, Reverse, Neutral and Drive.:eek: 1st and 2nd can not be found.:CRY: Guess I need to get under the car soon and fix that now that warm weather is finally here. :LOL: :LOL:

Lokar has an adjutment to make these stiffer. If I am following you correctly.
Loosen the jamb nut at the top of the shifter and dont run the knob so far down. This should help ....you will need to put more pressure on the shift button this way.
I hhad to play with mine to get the feel I liked

Hey Ice, it is not the shifts that require the button to be pushed that I am talking about, it is the ones that go from 1st, to 2nd to D, no depress needed.

I have another question on this, is it normal to have to press the lever forward then depress the button to shift out of park?

doesn't bother me, but it would if I knew it wasn't the way it was supposed to work.

Red

The Lokar shifter has no detents for the 1-2-3 shift in drive. All you are feeling is the detents inside your automatic transmission.

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Originally Posted by Dago Red

Hey Ice, it is not the shifts that require the button to be pushed that I am talking about, it is the ones that go from 1st, to 2nd to D, no depress needed.

I have another question on this, is it normal to have to press the lever forward then depress the button to shift out of park?

doesn't bother me, but it would if I knew it wasn't the way it was supposed to work.

Red

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Sorry we are talking 2 things.....but yes I agree it goes from 1-2-D very easy....but it should not go further than that with out the button pressed

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Originally Posted by Don Dalton

Count your blessings Fellas.I installed a B&M hammer (rachet style) in the 34 and the shift from park (700r4) requires a lot of muscle and you can go to drive mode (scary) once it releases real easy.The shift indicator(LED) is not functioning because the cable is doubling up and not slipping in the housing.The whole system seems to be hard to move.I have checked the cable routing and all seems to be within the suggested assy.instructions. Has any had similar problems?

Don In Austin

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I have a B&M Megashifter in my car on a TH350. The indicator quit working for the same reason yours did, but the shifter works great. Very smooth and positive.

Guess I'll bump this one up. I didn't see it before posting. After nashing the few teeth I have left, I think it is just the nature of the beast. It's really no different than the original column shifter. You have to "button" or lift up to go into 1st but it is just the trans detents working from there.

I'm going to take a hard look later and see if I can either add or modify the detents a little. With a mild motor it's ok I guess but with one that can really set you back quickly the stock Locar is in trouble I think. You really need to rest your hand against your leg or the seat to get just the right movement. Light fingers.

I used to drive the racer with one hand and pushing air buttons with the other so I guess the streetrod should be easier. Maybe I'm just older and slower. haha:LOL:

Well, if had been me starting out with this I would have looked for something that was a ratchet type or had positive detents. now that I have driven this more I have got the hang of it a lot better. but I still don't think it is ideal by any means.

I was just at the Back to the 50's and posed the question ot a lot of the hotter car guys and they are all saying the same thing "get used ot it , pal"

I've got a 12" lever so it's probably about ideal. A couple guys with the longer ones said that they can over shift easily so you have to hang on.

I put in one of these. It sure isn't what you nostalgia guys want, but it works great. No missed gears.

The Lokar with the 16" handle on my C4 is about the sams as the rest of you report - minimal detents.

Interestingly - at the NSRA show at York, it looks like the Gennie shifter is really being pushed by the big parts suppliers. I did a cursory look at them and really don't like the way they bolt up to the tranny - especially the C4. They attach to a couple of double ears on each side of the top of the case plus 2 of the tailshaft bolts rather then bracket the top plate solidly to bolts. In my mind it is flimsy. On my last car I had the cheapest B&M cable shifter on a C4 and it worked very nicely, especially after I got smart enough to lube it and bracket the cable against excessive movement.

Neither the Genie or the LOKAR are performance shifters, nor do they claim to be so.

Seems like there's room there for a performamce street rod shifter. I hereby patent any and all ratchet/gate shifter designs that are street rod asthetic ...........

Mine is a custom mounted B&M Pro Gate ........



Kitz