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On all of my previous rods, using small block Chev engines and turbo 350 automatics, I have used steel or copper lines to run from the tranny up to the underside of the radiator, for the tranny oil to be cooled by the rad. How much pressure is in these lines---would it be acceptable to run flexible neoprene lines instead?
I know when one broke on my truck we used rubber to repair it. I think it is still on there.
Use the least amount of neoprene hose as possible. Preferrably none at all! Take your time and make the cooling lines out of steel brake line tubing. (5/16)Quote:
Originally posted by brianrupnow
On all of my previous rods, using small block Chev engines and turbo 350 automatics, I have used steel or copper lines to run from the tranny up to the underside of the radiator, for the tranny oil to be cooled by the rad. How much pressure is in these lines---would it be acceptable to run flexible neoprene lines instead?
Brian,
You can run flex lines, but they have to be made for transmission oil. I ran steel most of the way, but used reinforced flex from the radiator to the frame rail and from the frame rail to the trans. Most of the auto stores carry the hose. I picked mine up at Auto Zone.
The tranny cooler lines are low pressure lines at about 12-20 psi. But as pro60 stated, its not a good idea to run rubber lines. Take your time, run steel lines. Youll thank yourself later.
Here's a photo.
I jumped from the trans to the frame rail with flex line because of the close fit of the trans tunnel to the transmission. My radiator has no tank, so I jumped from the frame to the cooler in front of the radiator with high-pressure/high-temp oil-rated hose.
Steel lines are better, of course, but I couldn't turn out of the transmission with steel without re-doing the whole trans tunnel. Not worth the effort to me.
Another view. I used 5/16 tube to match the tranny output lines.
Found a photo with the lines hooked up. They aren't as close to the exhaust pipe as it looks.
I've been staring at that last picture you posted with your cooling lines to the tranny, and I have to say something. You're gonna have a leak at the ends. I'm not picking on you, or degrading your set-up in any way, I'm just bothered by all that hose, and the clamps. Trust me, they will leak. Just a friendly observation. :D
as long as you use the flexible neoprene lines it really don't make any dif. there is very little pressure on the line. its pumped back into the Trans in a open line so the pressure is very little. I like neoprene because the metal is subject to breakage or braided line for looks. :HMMM:
Pro,
No problem. Constructive criticism is always welcome. It may not show, but the tube ends are belled to prevent slippage.
You may be right, but I've used the same setup many times before. We'll see. Besides, I'm supposed to listen to a guy with a 4' long Chebby???? :LOL:
Henry Rifle, Thanks for the picture! I will soon have to hook up the same sort of lines and wonder about heat from the exhaust on both the transmission lines AND the nearness of the starter solenoid to the exhaust both below and above on the header side. The shield I ordered from Speedway (shiny aluminum) did not fit so I wonder what you will use for a heat shield on the solenoid and whether it would be a good idea to put some sort of simple shield between the exhaust pipe and the trans cooler hoses. Just a fine point in you otherwise excellent chassis build.
Don Shillady
Retired Scinetist/teen rodder
Don,
I'm just going to get a sheet of aluminum and fit it above the exhaust pipe. I may raise the trans cooler hoses up a bit too. I'm a bit limited for space because the body is channelled and the floor is dropped. The floor sits almost down on the crossmember tubes. There isn't much space to play around with. I really regret getting the dropped floor. At 6', I don't need it.
Don,
If heat becomes an issue for your solenoid you can install a remote solenoid as pictured here:
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml
You don't need to buy a kit like this, the parts are generally available. I did use this kit for mine and it works well. It uses a jumper to bypass your existing solenoid.
Pat
Well... he is putting it in a Ford! :whacked: And mine is in a Studebaker :LOL:Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
:LOL: Ford parts to fix a Chevy, :LOL: :LOL:
WAIT!!! I'm just kidding Henry and Stu, honest. I have been laughing so much tonight, that I just couldn't resist. :)
Pat
Why not use AN fittings, looks good, durable and easier to apply than steel lines, although more expensive.
There ya go . . .Quote:
. . . although more expensive.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by DennyW
:) That hose and fittings look pretty good.
http://www.sweetperformance.com/id9.htm
S.S. Braided Hose..... run that to close to the exhaust and the line will get to hot and it will boil the tran. fluid. out of the trans. dip stick tube. been there done that. :rolleyes:
lt 1s10, thanks for the "been there done that" and Henry Rifle agrees about the need for a shield. I guess my humble homemade cure would be to hide some aluminum flashing (roofing suply) between the exhaust pipe and the trans hoses with a simple angle attachment to the frame side. It might be ugly but it should not be visible once the splash shields and running boards are on. I have seen similar shields between saddle fuel tanks and the exhaust pipe and they are hidden once the body is on. I guess the trick is to do a neat job.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
should work fine , but you wont have a problem with the the neoprene hose getting to hot. the way henry got his fixed is just as good as any. there is very little pressure there. :cool:Quote:
Originally posted by Don Shillady
lt 1s10, thanks for the "been there done that" and Henry Rifle agrees about the need for a shield. I guess my humble homemade cure would be to hide some aluminum flashing (roofing suply) between the exhaust pipe and the trans hoses with a simple angle attachment to the frame side. It might be ugly but it should not be visible once the splash shields and running boards are on. I have seen similar shields between saddle fuel tanks and the exhaust pipe and they are hidden once the body is on. I guess the trick is to do a neat job.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
My first thought at looking at the rubber lines over the exhaust was "heat shield", but I see you have a plan in place. Would putting a "wrap" of that aluminized heat insulation cloth, you know the stuff, (used on floorpans, firewalls, etc) perhaps over the rubber hoses be a help...? You could use zap straps to hold it place.
Just my two bits..:)