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I just installed a S10 rear end in my 48 chevy, but now need to set up my shocks. How do i measure for travel. I need to mount a plate on the frame , but i dont have the body on at this time, so i dont have the full wieght of the car on the springs.See attached photo.
i don't see how you would mount the shocks if you don't have the weight on the springs. you will have to know your ride height. if you was using something like coil over shocks then you could set the frame the height you wonted and then adjust. the shocks after you put the body on but without any adjust. you'll probably be doing it over. :confused:Quote:
Originally posted by oldcarnut
I just installed a S10 rear end in my 48 chevy, but now need to set up my shocks. How do i measure for travel. I need to mount a plate on the frame , but i dont have the body on at this time, so i dont have the full wieght of the car on the springs.See attached photo.
Well first off your car is upside down.... Haha just messing. Anyway's s10 is right. you will need the body on it and all to set the ride height because you can't just weld the brackets and all up on there and think it's good. If you got the extra cash then put some coil overs on it from some place like QA1 and do exactly what lt1s10 said. Where did your cross bar or member go in front of the rear end? I see the one in the very back but there is supposed to be another on there in front of the rear.... Unless it's hidden by the rear end. What kind of front end are you using on your car there?
in other words about 1/2 way, or split the def. as we say down here "thats close enough" but to be on the safe side do it the way techinspector1 said.Quote:
Originally posted by techinspector1
Yep, you're gonna have to fabricate a mount with several different mounting holes in it (too much work) or wait until you get the weight on the car to fabricate your mounts. Once you do have the weight on the car, collapse the shock to its shortest length, then extend it fully and measure the total travel. Let's say it is 3 3/4 inches for example. Multiply 3.750 times 0.55 and that will be the amount you will want to extend the shock from its fully collapsed position in order to mount it on the car. In other words, for this example, let's say the total collapsed length of the shock might be 10 inches and its total extended length will be 13 3/4 inches. Using this example, 3.750 times 0.55 equals 2.0625" (two and one-sixteenth inches). Extend the shock rod by 2 1/16 from its fully collapsed length of 10 inches and you will mount the shock in the car at a total shock length of 12 1/16 inches.
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Another note, based on your pic and not sure what your real intentions are, but you don't want to mount the shocks absolutely verticle. They should be angled either tops toward the center of the vehicle, approx 40 degrees, or tops toward the back of the vehicle (look at how the OEM mounts were for a guideline). If you do them as pictured you'll experience some bind on uneven terrain/pavement. A 1" square, length of thick wall tubing would make a good mount. Span it from rail to rail. It would also act as a good place to run brake line and drop a couple of tailpipe hangers
Bob i know what you are saying, and i know about the angle. The shocks in the photo are just hanging there. I should have made that clear in the post. I like your idea about the 1" square. Should this be mounted even with the frame on top, or frame on bottom.I measured a 47 chevy today and found that it is 12 1/2" from the top of the spring to the bottom of the frame with the body on, so this should give me an idea since i dont have my body on for weight. What a great forum this is, you all are a great help. Ever since i passed 50 i new i needed to build me a custom ride, so i hope i get to finnish this project. By the way, anyone out there who thinks you cant build a nice custom for less than $10000.00 then you have to much money. I spend a lot of time looking for parts, and i do everything myself. Where i live we dont have a lot of junk yards, so i drive alot of country roads and look for old cars. I think im having more fun building this car without a lot of money. I have been looking for a steering box for my 48 for about 2 months now. Found some on the internet but they wanted $200.00 or more for them. Well i got a real nice one this morning from a farmer for free. So you see take your time and you can save.I belong to the MTFCI, and if someone needs a model T part and i have it i will just give it to them. I had many people give me parts when i put my 1917 Model T together.So for all of those who really love this hobby give a little. If anyone needs the parts i wont be using on my 48 fleetline let me know and they are yours. Thanks again for all your help.
That depends a bit on what the floor does in that area. If the floor bottom is at the same level with the top surface of the rails, and doesn't have any "bumps" or whatever that go down into that area, then I would mount it toward the top of the rails, allowing a little space for clearance at the top of the shock upper eye, which also would preclude the crossmember from rubbing against the floor. Should have mentioned too that you are better off welding in an appropriately sized sleeve for the through bolts so you don't crush the tube.Quote:
Originally posted by oldcarnut
Should this be mounted even with the frame on top, or frame on bottom.
Yeah man looks like you are having lots of fun with this project. If you need to get rid of any parts then let me know and I'll be glad to take the parts off your hands since I am in need of some for my car. That's nice that you just GIVE away your parts and all... People around here try to sell things to you and rip you off and they say they are being nice and giving you a deal when all they are really doing is ripping you off and they just wan't your money...
let me know what parts you need, if im not using them i will let you know and you can have them.
Do you got any extra dash boards or any of the hardware for dash boards like the glove box cover, etc? I have a dash but it's rusted like hell and NOTHING on it. If you have any extra front fenders (which I am sure you didn't get extra parts like that) I would even buy those puppies from you. Even the left rear fender. Like I said I am sure you don't have parts like that but hell it's worth the try. lol Let me know what ya got and I'll let you know if I need it or not. I don't have a thing for the inside of the car but that's all I can think of at the moment.
Thanks though man.
A shock mounting angle of 40 degrees is too extreme. As the shock is compressed the angle will increase even more. Check out the following Web site from Aldan Eagle Shocks about shock mounting angles.
http://www.aldaneagle.com/installation.htm
Well i had a guy from Iowa show up this morning with a trailer and he took everything i took of my chevy. He said i just saved him about $2000.00 in used parts. Sorry all but its all gone. If i find other parts i will let you know.
Ok got the shocks mounted today. I took the measurements off another 48 with the body on. If i did it right when i put my body on they should be ok. If not no big deal , i can change it.I set them at a 30 angle. See my photo gallery for the photos of it, and give me any negative feedback, as im learning like everyone else.
Ay man, it looks really good. I like what you did with the dash. Do you know what the thickness and kind of metal the dash is made out of? I am going to cover up my glovebox hole and the clock hole on mine because my clock is too messed up to be fixed and I am not going to spend money to buy another one so am going to cover up all the holes besides the speedometer one and just have a plain dash with not much on it at all...