Scratch-built triangulated 4-link

I have to create new mounts from scratch for a triangulated 4-link rear suspension on 32 Ford rails for a 9-inch Ford housing. Does anyone have specifications for this setup, such as recommended control rod lengths (upper vs. lower), and especially the angle of the upper rods? Also, should the rods be parallel to each other (and the ground)?

I have decent fabrication skills, and I want to avoid buying mounting plates if I can, but if that will be cheaper in the long run, I could do that. I am using pre-fab control rods and adjusters with urethane bushings, it's just the mounts I want to fabricate.

Thanks for any help.

Thanks. What I'm looking for is detailed information on the angles of the upper links. From various illustrations, it appears that the angle should be 45 degrees, or close to that. In my case, that would limit the length of the upper links to about 18". I was also advised to raise the upper links slightly above horizontal to prevent squat.

Dorsey

Thank you all for your advice and opinions.

Dorsey

Now that the work is done and I've got the car on the road, I can report the following:

I set the lower bars parallel to the ground, 25" in length (that's what I had on hand). I set the upper bars at 45 degrees, slightly above level. I made all the mounting flanges out of 3/16" wall rectangular tubing, so they're strong enough. I used T-style rod ends, not Heims.

The rear end is very flexible up and down, but very stiff side-to-side; exactly what I was looking for.

I also agonized over locating the differential housing side-to-side. The housing is not centered, but the pinion is, so I just went with that, also set the pinion angle parallel to the output shaft.

Finally, I took pains to get everything to less than 1/16" of perfect, which made final adjustments much easier and the rods just drop into place.

Oh yes, the car rides and handles just great. Thanks again to this and the other forums for advice and links to more advice.