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I'm replacing a pitman arm in my (Oz) 79 Falcon. I got the tapered spline off the steering box ok, but the tapered shaft on the connecting link (the bit on the other end) wont budge. I've tried a smaller pitman puller on it, bashing it, crowbar etc. Explosives are next on my list. Can anyone suggest anything that uses tools without wicks please.
Heavy application of a good penetrating oil like Aerokroil
Put tension on it with the pitman puller if possible, or wedges if not.
Get a torch and put heat to the outter surface
Set up some vibrations with steady hammer blows
Do the tension, heating, vibration all at the same time, make sure the tension stays on with periodic adjustment.
Then swear a lot...............that's the clincher. They need to be talked to.
And don't forget ya gotta hold your mouth just right with your tounge hanging out.
(LOL)
We ended up taking the conecting rod out of the vehicle and bashing the crap out of it with a sledge hammer......only took 6 whacks. It was one hell of a bond that was broken today.
Thanks dudes.
That was the way I do it.....talk's cheap, use the hammer Luke......
Nothing like a good bashing to get the day started right!! Sometimes bonding is terribly overrated???
Well it's raining hard here now and it's lunch time while I ponder a similar question. Yesterday I installed a (chromed) pitman arm on a vega box on my '29 frame and then found the tie rod end wouldn't come up through the small end of the pitman far enough to put a cotter pin through the castle nut. Maybe the chrome on the pitman made the hole smaller or maybe I have the pitman upside down? Is the small end hole tapered? If so I will have to remove the pitman to flip it over and face the same problem as above. Maybe since it is new I can get off with just WD40?
On another question about this fancy site, I tried to ask Dave Severson about the width of his '28 rear fenders to try to figure out my wheel offset for '29 fenders with a 56 1/4" Maverick rear (outer drum to drum) and I ACCIDENTLY hit the "ignore this member" bar and now I don't get Dave's comments. How can I "undo" the "ignore this member" and maybe Dave will measure his outer edge-to-outer edge distance on the Model A rear fenders (if he has fenders).
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
I haven't seen a stock Vega arm (if that's what you're useing) in so long I can't recall if it's tapered, but the aftermarket ones I've used had a non-tapered hole and the tie rod end fit fully through (though tight).
I'm not sure if you're also asking about getting the pitman arm off. There is a tool to do that, but if you've got a gear puller you can use a strap clamp on the arms (so they don't spread when you turn the screw) and get the same results.
To change your ignore list go to your "User CP" page, you'll find the edit function for the list there.
Ever thought of replacing the car instead of the pitman???.............lol
As a mechanical imbecile, ignoramace and other words to describe my lack of knowledge in automotive trades. I found the pitman arm puller a great tool.
It fits, it winds, it pulls it off, knuckles and chrome remain in tact.
Yep. That's how a tie-rod end seats. Odds are you have the Pittman arm upside down . . . or bottomside up. Whatever . . .Quote:
Is the small end hole tapered?
If you have room, try putting a loose tie-rod end in from the top.
Thanks for your quick replies. Well I did look at both holes before putting it on and hopefully I got it right and the problem was with some chrome plating in the hole. I checked with the tech guy at Bebops who said the hole is not tapered as far as he knows and they are on a slow production line using the same parts. Soo, using an open end 3/4" Craftsman I did the simulation of an impact wrench with a hammer and after about 30 minutes I got about a full turn on the nut and managed to slip a cotter pin through the hole. I tried to tap (hammer) both ends off before the "impact" trick and believe me both ends are "on to stay" and the steering seems to work OK so I will leave it alone unless a Tech Inspection tells me otherwise. I don't think I could have pulled it through the hole if I had the taper backwards. I really appreciate ALL your comments and experience at this web site. I am beginning to realize how valuable your years of experience are to me as I try to construct the whole car and I certainly did the right thing buying the "full bracket" version of the Brookville frame!
Thanks,
Don Shillady
REtired Scientist/teen rodder