40 Studebaker frame and suspension

Just moved here from the newbie section. I am starting on a 1940 Studebaker Champion 2dr Sedan. I have considered several frame and suspension options but I believe the best and certainly the simplest would be to retain the stock frame as I have no intention of racing and the engine will likely be no more than 275-300 hp. The car came with a Mustang II front suspension already grafted on and from some research I have done here and elsewhere, I believe it to be an original taken from a MII. I have the original strut rods and another set that looks like they were made to fit this frame although no frame brackets are in place for them as yet. The rear is the original leaf spring set up currently holding a 10 bolt Chevy. My questions at this point are: what can be done to the leaf spring rear to stabilize it some and what brackets are available for engine mounting? I plan to use a 330 Olds engine and a TH350. I suppose I can build the mounts myself once I can line the engine and trans up with the trans mount which already exists. Sorry I'm not "old enough" to post some pictures which might illustrate this better. Looking for all good advice. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by 40$tude

Just moved here from the newbie section. Sorry I'm not "old enough" to post some pictures which might illustrate this better. Looking for all good advice. Thanks.

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You shouldn't have any issues posting pics. As long as you upload'em here. Don't use a link. Or if you need help flip'em to me at mfmike1atcomcastdotnet.
I'll get them posted for you.

Once "we" can see some of what you're working with , we'll be only to helpful to spend your money! 8-)

Thanks. I tried to upload to the gallery, but my pics are too large. I'll change the setting on my camera and try again.

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Originally Posted by 40$tude

Thanks. I tried to upload to the gallery, but my pics are too large. I'll change the setting on my camera and try again.

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First, IMO it's much, much better if you attach your photos to the thread vs using the gallery. Others may disagree, but I seldom open the gallery, even if the flag pops up saying there are new pictures posted there. Whenever someone says "Go to my gallery to see....." my reaction is "fat chance!" It's too cumbersome to use, having to page through every image to see the one you want, again IMO.

Second, open your images in one of the common photo resizing programs (free), or even MS PAINT and resize them down to the 500-600kb range. In PAINT I generally just drop them down to 25% and it's good. That way you have your high resolution image if you want/need to focus on that one phillips head screw in a full side shot, and you have the reduced image for your emails, posting, etc.

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Originally Posted by 40$tude

The car came with a Mustang II front suspension already grafted on and from some research I have done here and elsewhere, I believe it to be an original taken from a MII. I have the original strut rods and another set that looks like they were made to fit this frame although no frame brackets are in place for them as yet.

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In my opinion, the original Mustang II independent front suspension system, using the original strut rods to support the lower control arm, makes a great front suspension swap. You will see a bunch of these systems folded up and resulting in crashes across the country every year, but the reason is because of the aftermarket lower control arm that the builder used, instead of the original strut rod. Some "fabricator" thought the car would look better with a wishbone lower control arm instead of the original. So, he eliminated the strut rod and fashioned a wishbone lower arm. Problem was, he made the "V" too narrow, so that it was not able to absorb and resist loads like the original strut rod suspension could, so the whole mess folded up. In the meantime, every other "fabricator" copied the first guy, making the "V" too narrow to resist loads, and the result is that we have a bunch of under-engineered components folding up in cars all over the country.

Sadly, I can't even find a video of an installation of an original MII into a hot rod. Every video I have found uses those inferior narrow little aftermarket control arms.

If you can find an original factory drawing or blueprints of the original dimensions showing exactly where to place the biscuit in relation to the lower control arm, you will have a winner in my opinion.

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Originally Posted by 40$tude

The rear is the original leaf spring set up currently holding a 10 bolt Chevy. My questions at this point are: what can be done to the leaf spring rear to stabilize it some.

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Although I have never used them, CalTrac bars from Calvert Racing might be the hot ticket for you. Call them and discuss it.....
https://www.calvertracing.com/contact-us.html

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Originally Posted by 40$tude

and what brackets are available for engine mounting? I plan to use a 330 Olds engine and a TH350. I suppose I can build the mounts myself once I can line the engine and trans up with the trans mount which already exists. Sorry I'm not "old enough" to post some pictures which might illustrate this better. Looking for all good advice. Thanks.

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330 Olds into a '40 Studebaker. Yeah, I doubt that anyone has those on the shelf. You'll probably have to make those yourself, starting with some stiff carbboard like a shoebox and taping pieces together to get your angles correct, then taking it apart and transferring the shapes to 1/8" cold rolled, to be welded together as the finished mount.
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Thanks. Having trouble with pictures, I don't see an icon for attachments here.

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Originally Posted by 40$tude

Thanks. Having trouble with pictures, I don't see an icon for attachments here.

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Here's a link to an old thread on posting images. http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/...es-thread.html When you hit "Reply" or "Reply with Quote" you'll get the reply box, and at the lower right hit "Go Advanced", and then scroll down and select "Manage Attachments"; or click the paper clip icon at the top bar in the response area. The link explains after that.

Sorry, tried several photo sizing sites and can get nothing to load here. Keep getting an error message. I'm sure it's operator error. Better with cars than computers.

Here is the only way I can load pics. I go to my web storage which happens to be google pics, I click on the image that I want so it brings it to full size, and then right click it to store it to my pictures on my laptop. From there I click the paper clip on the Go Advanced tab and go to the choose Add File on the new window that pops up, then hit Choose file which will give to the option to access your Picture Folder on your lap top, click on the picture you want, then click on open, then click upload. I used to be able to upload 4 at a time but something happened now that I can only do one at a time. Clear as mud but it's the only way I know how. I've never had a image to large notice, maybe Google photos fixes that automatically on the upload.

Picture 40 Studebaker.

Here are the suspension pics. Note the position of the rear axle. I think maybe someone's driveshaft was a bit short.

the pin is offset on the spring. drill a new hole or make a lowering block with the hole 1 in forward. this will move the rear end back 1 in . i'm pulling the i n from memory so double check it . :)

I agree. I doubt I will ultimately use that rear end anyway, and will definitely lower it. A few more pics.

nice starter project. nothing wrong with the front suspension . all fomoco . much better than the pos aftermarket crap .
set up a good 8 in ford rear and your redy to go .

See, posting pics isn't all that hard once you figure out a couple things.. now just hit enter between pics to add a space or two between them. makes it easier to "see them".

Looks like a great project too!

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Originally Posted by 40$tude

and will definitely lower it.

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I would resist the thoughts of cutting coils or using lowered spindles in the front, opting instead for ''Z"-ing the front clip to keep IFS geometry factory correct. It's not the front suspension that's wrong, it's the position of the front suspension in relation to the frame that's wrong. The body needs to come down about 3" front and rear in relation to the tires.
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Originally Posted by techinspector1

I would resist the thoughts of cutting coils or using lowered spindles in the front, opting instead for ''Z"-ing the front clip to keep IFS geometry correct. It's not the front suspension that is wrong, it's the position of the front suspension in relation to the frame that is wrong. The body needs to come down about 3" front and rear in relation to the frame.
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Old Bouncing Betty had her coils radically cut and boy did she bounce.:LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL:

Found this on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trans-Dapt-...19.m1438.l2649 Seems like it would solve my engine mount issue. With some additional reinforcement would this be a solution? Thanks

That should do very nicely.
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I agree. The MII front doesn't seem to have much room to lower anyway. I would go with mods to the body to give the impression. On the other hand, I cut a coil out of my 67 Cutlass for a 2 inch front drop (2" lowering springs in the rear, you can't cut those) and it handles fine.

Here's a pic of the Olds

Very nice olds!!!

Thanks, and thanks for all the good advice. I will start a build log when I'm able to get it in the shop after I finish my 65 Buick Special Conv. which has about a month or so to go. Here is the latest on it. The quarters are the last to strip and repair, all other parts blocked and in the final prime. Engine already rebuilt and interior sorted.