Nova Front suspension - STUCK

I got new springs for my 69 nova as it is now a big block (was a straight 6). Last night I went to put them on, and was unable to get either of the ball joints connecting the suspension arms to come off. I took out the pins, took off the bolts, and neither the top or the bottom ball joints would budge, maybe I was missing something?

Well i did finish one shock, but I ended up having to unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe - took 3 hours total including the time wasted on wacking at the ball joints =(

I would really like to avoid doing this on the other side because it was extremely difficult getting the lower control arm back on with that new spring in there.

Any suggestions?


Eric

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Originally posted by ericingram
I got new springs for my 69 nova as it is now a big block (was a straight 6). Last night I went to put them on, and was unable to get either of the ball joints connecting the suspension arms to come off. I took out the pins, took off the bolts, and neither the top or the bottom ball joints would budge, maybe I was missing something?

Well i did finish one shock, but I ended up having to unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe - took 3 hours total including the time wasted on wacking at the ball joints =(

I would really like to avoid doing this on the other side because it was extremely difficult getting the lower control arm back on with that new spring in there.

Any suggestions?


Eric

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A puller for the ball joint. (Shouldn't beat on them). A spring compresser to install the new springs.

Aha! A puller! I honestly didn't know they required one, thanks pro :)

Quote:

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Originally posted by ericingram
Aha! A puller! I honestly didn't know they required one, thanks pro :)

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I suppose you could beat on em' if your changing them for new, but I wouldn't beat on one that your going to keep. It's been years since I've changed one, I think I still have a tool. Looks like a wedge shaped fork that you stick between the ball joint & the spindle. Then you tap on it and the wedge pops it lose. Somebody out there that has done it more recently than say 1982, tell me if I remember it right?

eric,

If you are having trouble getting the ball joint loose from the spindle, it might be a good time to replace them as long as you have it apart. There are a couple ways to get them apart. Support the car on the frame so the lower a-arm is free. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut, but do not remove it. Leave it at least 1/2 way on the ball joint stud. Now take a sledge or big ball peen hammer and strike the spindle collar from the side where the ball joint stud goes through it. This way the pressure from the spring is still on and the shock from the hammer blows should break any rust loose that his holding the ball joint stud into the spindle. You may need to hit it several times, and you need to smack it pretty hard. Once it pops loose, then support the conrtol arm with a jack and remove the castle nut. You then should be able to lower the control arm and remove the spring. You need to unbolt the anti-sway bar also. Be very carefull as those springs are under a lot of pressure and can be unpredictable. They can really hurt you. If the hammer method does not work, you can borrow a ball joint seperator (aka pickle fork) from your local AutoZone. They loan them for free, a great resource. The lower balljoint is pressed into the control arm. To remove it you can drive it out with a hammer. Heating the control arm may help, but be careful of the grease, it is flammable. To install the new balljoint I always put them in the freezer for a few hours, then put grease around them so they press in easier. You may be able to borrow a press from AutoZone to remove and install it, but if none is available try this. Place the balljoint in the control arm from the bottom, then use a bottle jack or something similar with a piece of wood between it to press the joint into the arm from below. With the jack pressing up, and the weight of the car pressing down, the frozen ball joint should press into the arm. You will need to have put the spring back in place before doing this. As Pro70Z28 mentioned, a spring compressor may be needed especially for the new springs. AutoZone may have that too. Again, be very careful working with those springs, they have tremndouse power and can hurt you severely. Some of these methods are old hammer mechanic ways, but they still work.

Pat

Use a "pickle fork"......usually tears the rubber boot. A good time to replace your ball joints too. Check your "A" frame bushings while you are at it. Poly bushings would be the way to go, if replacing them.

Thank you guys a ton for your help! I picked up a pickle fork from auto zone and i went at it for a while and wasnt able to get it off for a whole day, then i relized I was using it wrong by hitting it up and down instead of wedging it in, came off real easy when i figured that out. I had a horrible time getting the new spring in. It is a moroso trick spring set, which is about 6" or more longer than my old springs and a long more powerful. I had a cheap spring compressor that snapped under heavy pressure when it was in the car (good thing it wasnt while i was holding it). Then I got another compressor from autozone and that worked fine. I plan on replacing my ball joints and bushings soon now that I figured out how to do it right!

Thanks again for the advice!