Swapping spindles for front steer to rear steer

I'm trying to keep the frame spring pockets intact and using suspension components from a 2wd ford ranger or explorer to convert my 1937 Buick Roadmaster to disk brakes and ball joints. Also trying to avoid changing the front clip.
The components look like a pretty good match dimensionally. My biggest concern with this conversion is that the Explorer is front steer and my Buick has rear steer. Has anyone out there put a front steer suspension in an old car like this. If so, where did you locate the front steer components.
Thanks

You can check the line, but I think you'll need to heat & bend the steering arms to correct the akerman angle, but other than that it should be fine. The akerman angle is the line from the center of the spindle through the steering arm connecting point for the tie rod, and those two lines need to intersect at the center of the rear differential axle centerline. Here's a link to some info, if you need it:
ackerman angle - Google Search

rspears
Please see my revised question. Concensus matched your reply that this would not work. Secong alternative is described above.
Thanks

By editing your original post it makes the reply meaningless and confusing. A better way is to "Reply" to the thread, adding information, and continuing the discussion. My reply to your question, which was "Can I switch sides of the Ranger spindles to convert to rear steer?", did not say it would not work, only that you need to heat and bend the steering arms to correct the akerman angle. With front steer the end points will be biased outboard, and with rear steer you simply need to bend them inboard to align the geometry. I cannot comment on where to mount compents to shift to front steer without changing the clip.

watch out for bump steer. your spindle arms at may be better to put a rack in it .

rspears. I see your point. Sorry about confusing this thead. Pretty new to this. Is bending arms by heating a common thing to do?
Thanks for your help

Pat McCarthy- I hoped to use the rack & pinion that comes with the explorer. Is taht what you mean by putting rack in it? I'll be changing the straight 8 out for a V8 which should leave room behind the radiator and in front of the engine. Could the rack & pinion be bolted across the top of the frame?

Thanks

Another general tip on posting, if you direct your questions to specific people then others who may have experience or opinion on the subject may not post, because you did not as for open input. You'll get more discussion, and chance for an answer if you list the questions alone, and reserve the one-on-one for specifics.

About the arms, I've not done it myself, but I've seen it discussed on other forums that tend to pure "old school" approach, like the HAMB, killbillet, or olskoolrodz so I think it's done. You just need to understand the geometry and play within the rules. Also know that you're making a one off, custom part and if you break it or wreck it later you'll be making another one.... If you haven't seen it lots of people go back to a R&C article as a basic reference Basic Suspension Geometry Lessons - Rod And Custom Magazine

On your steering rack, the position of the rack is going to be driven by the location of your steering arms, right? If they're aligned low, off the bottom of the spindle then your rack is going to be on brackets at that level with the chassis at ride height, right? That gives you the necessary travel for suspension movement. Others may jump in here - I'm only speaking from what I've seen. Never used R&P myself. If I've gone too basic in my reply don't take offense, as none is intended.

This will be my first street rod. Although I very mechanically inclined and have done all maintenance on my cars I've never done custom fab or set up a suspension. I inherited a '37 Buick Roadmaster that my Grandparents bought in 1942. It is all original but has not ran since '52 and has lots or rust. I want to build a resto-mod driver and have been researching for about 7 months. I want disc brakes. ball joints & power steering. Local hot rod shops all recommended a Mustang II front suspension, but I would rather update the existing front independent suspension, if at all possible. The aftermarket companies say my car is on the heavy side for Mustang II suspension because it will probably weigh 3800 lbs, even after I swap the engine I trans.
Have been writing back an forth with the author of the wiki on Crank shaft Coalition "http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/1937-1957_Buick_Oldsmobile_Pontiac_suspension_upgrade" and he has been very informative and helpful. He recommends that I keep with the rear steer but I want to upgrade the suspension to 90's or newer technology and rear steer is not common as far as I have found.
Do you know how the Mustang II, which is a front steer handles the Ackerman angle on such a large variety cars that were often rear steer before the conversion?
Thanks

Well first off--the M2 and Pintos were pretty short wheelbase cars so even if you did complete M2 front end set up on a longer car it wouldn;t be correct---

Having said that, ackermon isn't too big of an issue except in turns such as something that takes a lot of manuevering

Have you looked at complete frame front and rear from something like an Ford Expedition??? Explorer?? disc brakes, right weight package, wheel base maybe close enough angles work out and independant rear suspension??

Thanks for your help.
Turns out two suspensions that I have identified as candidates may be a good match:
1937 Buick Roadmaster, Front track = 58.5, Wheelbase = 131
2007-2010 Ford Explorer Sport trac, Front Track = 60.8, Wheelbase = 130.5
2000-2006 Ranger, or Sport track, Front track = 58.3, Wheebase = 125.9
1998-1998 Chevy C/K 1500, Front Track = 64.1, Wheelbase = 131.5.
My goal is to use the upper & lower control arms & spindles & attach them to the Buick frame with custom brackets. The arms would be mounted so the the front track is very close to the original 58.5 or narrower for wider tires.
Does anyone know if this work well?
Since I'm narrowing the front track to, would a different donar wheelbase be better?

Explorer is front mounted R&P. If mounted on rear car will be need to be RHD to work as steering will work in reverse. Have a friend you tried similar on his '46 Olds. R&P would need to be narrowed severely, there would be significant bump steer etc and it just won't sit where it needs to be, plus steering arms won't line up.