Cut and weld tie rod?

I have a 52 F-1 and have dropped tie rod ends to install. But, they will be about 6" too wide when screwed in. Options are to cut one end and re-thread and reinstall end. I have been unable to find an 11/16's x 18 tap to do the job. Autozone, NAPA, Fastenal, Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc., don't have it and can't order it (not it their catalog). Other option is to cut 6" out of the center of the tie rod and insert a solid rod into the cut and weld shut. Maybe even weld a piece of angle iron along the cut area. What do you think? Any more ideas?

Any good tool supply house will have the tap, Speedway catolog shows 1 also.
DON'T CUT THE TIE ROD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bad advice

Thanks about the Speedway catalog...I must have missed it!

If you found the tap, that solves the problem. I guess you were talking about cutting the center link, not the tie rod ends. If you are a good welder it shouldnt be a problem at all. I have shortned many of these, when no tap was available at the time. I cut out the desired ammount. Found some solid stock to fit inside the tube. Drilled a couple of holes in each center link end, inserted rod. I also beveled the ends of tube where they join. Tack it together. Weld thru holes to solid stock inside, and weld joint in center. Don't do this with a small 110 mig. Use larger mig, or stick welder. I personally like a stick for critical areas such as this. But when welded like this. That will be the strongest part of that center link. But thats just my opinion.......

I have welded steering linkage together also in the past, but you need to be very sure you are making good welds. Your life and the lives of those around you depend on it.

Years ago they sold dropped tie rods that were designed to clear transplanted engines oil pans in cars like 50 Fords, and they were welded, so if done properly it can be done. I agree about finding some solid stock the right OD to slip inside first (make it as long as will fit into the hollow cut off tie rod both ways past the cut), rosette weld it in place along it's length, then lay in a deep hot weld all around the beveled cut. If you wanted to be extra sure you could slip one more piece of tubing OVER the beveled weld (after you grind it level) then weld that sleeve fully to an area extending out over the cut. With all those pieces of tubing and solid stock, the cut area would be stronger than the original uncut piece IMO.

Don

X2 on the round stock and plug welds, done that myself many times. Never a problem. I figured even if the welds failed, the round stock will keep everything from falling on the ground until you get stopped! At worst you're gonna have a bit too much toe-in. Haha.

You'll likely need two taps, (it is an oddball, it is a 'ford' thread) a left and a right hand so that you can take equal amounts off each side.
You can also get threaded bungs from SoCal and maybe speedway and weld them into a new piece of steel tube and screw new tyerod ends into it, again right and left hand.
High quality taps are available from McMaster-Carr, speedway seems to get a lot of stuff from china

I got to say that I would tap as well.Have seen a lot welded in the past, I regard myself as a pretty decent welder but like others have said lives are at risk and piece of mind to me is more important.And that is not to say that it still could fail being tapped.

Ya I have cut and welded the inner tie rods before.
I used to cut out what I needed to then find a piece of pipe
a little bigger around then the tie rod so the cut tie rod could fit inside it.
I would cut a piece about 3 inches long out of the pipe and slide it on one side of the
inner tie rod where it had been cut. Then I would weld the tie rod together then grind the weld down smooth. Then slide the pipe/sleve over and center it over your weld.
then weld that on both ends all the way around. Like 33 said have a good welder to make strong welds.
Kurt

Thanks for all the help! I ordered the RH threaded tap yesterday from Speedway. I will only cut one side about 6" and re-tap it. Also using a locknut from Speedway. Less than $25 for the tool and nut. Much safer than my welding skills will allow. I have a buddy that can tig or stick with the best of them, but this really is the easy, safe way to go. Thanks again!

I think ojh has a point. Are you doing this to a center link?

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Originally Posted by Ford Guy

Thanks for all the help! I ordered the RH threaded tap yesterday from Speedway. I will only cut one side about 6" and re-tap it. Also using a locknut from Speedway. Less than $25 for the tool and nut. Much safer than my welding skills will allow. I have a buddy that can tig or stick with the best of them, but this really is the easy, safe way to go. Thanks again!

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Smart move

when in doubt............ farm it out. i'm a decent welder but on stuff like this i check to the professional tig welder. my life is worth the cost.

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Originally Posted by shine

when in doubt............ farm it out. i'm a decent welder but on stuff like this i check to the professional tig welder. my life is worth the cost.

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There is no shame in doing exactly that, I did the same thing for years and felt so much better knowing someone who knew how to do it welded on the important stuff. I would tack and take it to a pro.

I really have concern for some of the young guys, especially on some of the rat rod forums I am on, who are tackling suspension modifications with little knowledge of how to properly weld and sometimes using a 115 volt mig. I have seen welds they have done where they didn't even grind the rust off before doing the welding. I don't mean that as any slam against guys just learning or rat rodders, just trying to say even we guys who have done this for a while, like Shine, know our limitations and sometimes we defer to those pros who can make our rods safer and better.

Don

i have always said the mig welder is the most dangerous tool invented. it can lay a nice bead that wont hold diddly . i prefer tig or stick.

x 2 for sure

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Originally Posted by shine

i have always said the mig welder is the most dangerous tool invented. it can lay a nice bead that wont hold diddly . i prefer tig or stick.

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I'll agree with you guys on the 110 mig.
But not on some of the new 250 gas migs.
Kurt

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Originally Posted by shine

i have always said the mig welder is the most dangerous tool invented. it can lay a nice bead that wont hold diddly . i prefer tig or stick.

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yep alot of the guys welding frame s with 110 migs would be far better with a 7018 ac buzz box welder .i have had 3 migs last two were bigger machines .i ran alot of the big spools of 035 wire thru a industrial snap off .the last was a miller 250 x mig . nice welder but the tig took over all the work of the miller when the tig welder i pick up i could use a thumb wheel on the torch were with the old tig i had to run the gas pedal with the side of my leg or stick the pedal on end and run with my foot to weld over head

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shine

i have always said the mig welder is the most dangerous tool invented. it can lay a nice bead that wont hold diddly . i prefer tig or stick.

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Isn't that the turth!!!! Everybody that has one, suddenly becomes a "welder"

If I had my choice I too would go with a tig.
Though I do not own one and have never used one.
I have seen some great looking welds that were very strong.
I have a stick welder and a 250 lincoln gas mig that I use all
the time and have never had one of it's welds brake yet.
Could it happen sure, but any weld can brake when the metal
in not preped for welding first.
Kurt