straight axle

I've decided to build my own front axle for the '57. I'll set up the ends for Ford spindles and use 'moly tubing for the axle and ends....thinking 2" X .120 wall tubing or therabouts... Any suggestions on tubing size, or does anyone remember the caster/camber angles that were used on the old gasser setups? I would think 5-7 degrees of caster would give good stability, and match the camber angle of the axle end stubs to the built in angle on the Ford spindles, then maybe give it about 1/4 positive camber???????

2 by 120 is abit thin

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

2 by 120 is abit thin

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even for moly, Pat???? probably be safer with something around .250???

i would really look into that kit from speedway dave, my uncle just bought one for his falcon, the axle, spindles all the fasteners to do the job, leaf springs, disc brakes everything but a steeing shaft and box haha. think it was 850ish & 1000-1200 with the upgraded willwood brakes

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

i would really look into that kit from speedway dave, my uncle just bought one for his falcon, the axle, spindles all the fasteners to do the job, leaf springs, disc brakes everything but a steeing shaft and box haha. think it was 850ish & 1000-1200 with the upgraded willwood brakes

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Looked at it, going to do the same thing, just want to have the moly axle! What's he going to use for a steering box on his?

vega box....

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

vega box....

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set up for crossteer, I'm sure??

not 100% sure will ask next time i see him

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

even for moly, Pat???? probably be safer with something around .250???

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yep you going to have some front end weight that really not a place to be thin. i would use DOM 250 wall just welding the thin $$wall moly to some$$ moly round stock for the King pins your getting in to a lot for nothing i think. were the DOM is cheap weld s and round stock for pin boss.s is cheap . and if you land the front hard your not going to bend some tubing

You're right, Pat...I just keep thinking how much a reduction in unsprung weight the moly would be...got to decide if the money would be worth it....

I've never made one for street use, but many for drag cars. I use 1 1/2 X .250 chrome moly. I think 2" would be a bit large, if you want greater durablilty i'd stay at 1 1/2 and maybe a .500 wall (that is what i use for the kingpin bosses). They are quite simple to build, a piece of boxtubing drilled to accept the spindle parallel to ground is all you need, machine your kingpin boss and put it in the spindle with the kingpin and weld the axle to it.
The pics show a piece of it. I have different ones at different heights. It is used here to hold a model 'a' axle while i am building the suspension stuff. The box tube is clamped to an 1 1/2" tube that i clamp to the frame jig, the holder is shown in the other pic and you need two of them. Very simple pieces, the spindle nut holds them tight so you can set caster too.

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

You're right, Pat...I just keep thinking how much a reduction in unsprung weight the moly would be...got to decide if the money would be worth it....

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buy some lite rims and front brake.s that would be more then the axle you want to go with the bigger ID not smaller if you want it stonger as you want to go thinner wall

It'll have some nice Wilwood brakes, and a pair of the re-pop spindle mount look 10 spoke wheels that are now being made with the bolt mounting rather then spindle mount.

OJH, nice simple fixture! Did you dial in a bit of camber or just run the wheels straight up and get the stability off the toe-in???

No camber, an 1/8th toe total - never considered camber for stability, should I? As I said, the axles i have made have been for drag race and i am using the fixture as a jig tool for the model 'a' axle.
I am going to make tube axles for the next 2 projects so if you have knowledge to share about camber speak forth.
Thanks, oj

btw, unsprung weight in the front is minimal so any weight savings is a non-factor. Another point to onsider, Xmoly is a natural for the front axle as it is high quality steel and when bent it'll return to its natural shape. You bend mild steel and it'll stay that way. Something to consider, esp if you do a wheelie at launch.

if DOM 250 wall and 2.500 .OD your not bending the axle on a hard landing your bending.many other things .:( i seen alot of moly bent up and its harder to bend back and you would throw it away if bent . dom you can bend back . really no matter how lite you are this still at best you will have 70% of the front weight on this car and if under 3100. with driver your doing good .so all i would say you better with DOM for the money .but its your money dave not mine :)

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Originally Posted by ojh

No camber, an 1/8th toe total - never considered camber for stability, should I? As I said, the axles i have made have been for drag race and i am using the fixture as a jig tool for the model 'a' axle.
I am going to make tube axles for the next 2 projects so if you have knowledge to share about camber speak forth.
Thanks, oj

btw, unsprung weight in the front is minimal so any weight savings is a non-factor. Another point to onsider, Xmoly is a natural for the front axle as it is high quality steel and when bent it'll return to its natural shape. You bend mild steel and it'll stay that way. Something to consider, esp if you do a wheelie at launch.

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Seems that something like 1/2 a degree of negative camber puts a bit of scuff on the tires and allows the toe in to be at about 1/16" and keeps some of that mid-track skatiness out of the car. I also like the caster at 5-7 degrees to keep things straight on the big end....

Dave i've made quite a few straight axles and i like to use 2" DOM tube with a .250" wall, never had one bend yet.

I set the camber at 0 and like 5-7 degrees caster, i've had good results from 3/16" toe in