Thread: Engine setback

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

It's a front mount rack now, Jerry.... I have a dual pass aluminum radiator for it along with a bunch of other goodies... May have to do some oil pan and pickup mods, make the pan wider and not as tall.... Not sure yet, got a block coming next week to do some fitting with....

pan as to be a bit deeper for the 4.750 crank

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

pan as to be a bit deeper for the 4.750 crank

How much deeper, Pat???? I'm doing my mock up with the truck pan and pickup..... (mid 70's Suburban with a 454)

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

How much deeper, Pat???? I'm doing my mock up with the truck pan and pickup..... (mid 70's Suburban with a 454)

well add 1 inch more but more is allways better i going to change out the oil in the gto this week i can get back to you on pan numbers on that .you may find some from moroso?

I was keeping track of the weight I took off, then had to interrupt the project with other things and now working out at the other shop again and managed to lose the notebook I had everything written down in. I was really surprised how much the rear hatch and bumpers weighed, so naturally I threw them away!!!! The steering box and all the tie rods, etc weigh about 5 times as much as the aluminum rack that replaced them and on and on. Once I get started I just can't seem to stop!!!!!

Big problem now, as usual I have money wrapped up in about 5 different projects and have to get one done and sold so I can work on the next!!!!!! Maybe I'll learn someday, but I doubt it!!!!!


\How much weight would the aluminum block save??????

The 'maro is gonna be low and there's no exhaust room under the car anyhow.... Considering building some fenderwell headers and sidepipes for it, similar to the old big block Vette's..... Maybe even cover them with some "ground effects" panels and a turnout at the end like some of the late model Mustang body kits...... Don't know yet, want to get a block mocked up in the car first, then start planning the rest...

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

The 'maro is gonna be low and there's no exhaust room under the car anyhow.... Considering building some fenderwell headers and sidepipes for it, similar to the old big block Vette's..... Maybe even cover them with some "ground effects" panels and a turnout at the end like some of the late model Mustang body kits...... Don't know yet, want to get a block mocked up in the car first, then start planning the rest...

yep i know this no room under them cars. i did a ex on one .just one was all it took .. the drives side has no kick up like the pass side has . i would do the headers out the wells and side pipes

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

yep i know this no room under them cars. i did a ex on one .just one was all it took on kick up on the drives side like the pass side has . i would do the headers out the wells and side pipes

Think I'll have to Pat.... Just no room to get anything decent under the car, especially anything big enough to work with a BBC.....

oval tubing. but still would be a pain and the you still have to run some type of muffers. you would have to run a y pipe off the headers .run it down the pass side and still get it out side of the car .if you want it low to the ground . or cut the floor build the ex. then build floor back over it

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

oval tubing. but still would be a pain and the you still have to run some type of muffers. you would have to run a y pipe off the headers .run it down the pass side and still get it out side of the car .if you want it low to the ground . or cut the floor build the ex. then build floor back over it

Yeah, thought of that, too. Think the outsiders will end up being easier to build and should certainly be more efficient for the engine.... I did what you suggest on Joe's Camaro with the LS engine....2 1/2" from the headers to a Y pipe, then 3" to the rear axle, another y pipe, and dual 2 1/2" pipes out the back. Worked out good, sounds great, but just seems like to much restriction.... With the outsiders, would be simple to run step headers and/or 4 into 2 into 1 Tri-y's or 4 into 2 into 1 merge collectors..... Think I'll do the outsiders, maybe even send them off and have them coated?????

out side will work the best .i think if you did aY to oval 4 1/2 inch then back to a y mufflers out. it would work good i wanted to do a big oval ex for the gto but the car just is not that low. it sure would be cool . but it is $$ there is somethings i will spend money on if i can see it .i tell you on the chevy the car sit low in the front .i never cut the k trans crossover out was to strong to take out .so the ex kick down to the headers and kick back up over the cross member was not a big deal with small ex like 2 1/2 but with the 4 it down. it just cheap steel tubing. the roads are so bad that i use it as a skid plate ever now and then better then my oil pan

My "Z" is 47" tall. I can just slide my fist under the 4" collectors. Step headers pretty much fills all the available space inside the front tires to frame, but they still clear turning the wheel lock to lock. . Crank centerline is 11'' to the floor. The headers dump outside the 2''x3'' frame rails so I plan to run exhaust behind the rocker panels and cut a notch in the rocker in front of the rear tires to exit the body. It's all very close under there.
I plan to put steel floor pans in (So I don't need a 20 Suit) Then I'll put an aluminum floor on the bottom side of the cage tubes just between the frame rail & the rocker tube. That will give me an 1 1/2'' air gap as an insulator to keep the floor a little cooler. Sort of a heat shield for the pipes.

Thanks for the numbers, Pro... What size are your primary tubes and collectors????

Dave, they are 2.25''-2.375'' step tubes with a 4'' collector. I would have gone 5'' to give the pro charger plenty of breathing room but under car clearance is already tight with the 4''.

Thanks Pro. Thinking a 4 1/2" collector for mine, maybe the 4 into 2 into 1 stuff, too. Ran them on a 514" Ford a few years back, seemed to help the bottom end (60' times dropped half a tenth), suppose it helps a similar sized BBC the same?????

Got an email from Mike Forte, he has the shifter for the TKO's that is located 12" back of the block, which would work fine where I have the sbc mocked up now so that'll work ok on the trans. If a big block is 2" longer then a small block, the front of the block will be about 3 1/2" back of the spindle centerline as things are mocked up now.....