Thread: Narrowed C4 IRS....camber questions

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

What is your camber setting at ride height??? Doesn't seem that 2 degrees of camber change in 5" of travel would be too much.... The suspension will only go to full deflection when you hit a bump or really hammer it into a turn. Will you be running a rear sway bar? With a rear bar, the camber change would be even less. Under normal driving, it would seem the change would be less then 1 degree....

I which I could be more specific, but without being there to see your suspension work, it's kind of tough. Jerry is probably a whole lot more current on a Vette IRS then I am...

We used to play with rear camber on circle burners, used the same method as the NASCAR guys do. Never really did see any big results, either positive or negative but we were running on dirt, street use and paved tracks require a lot "tighter" specs on suspension then a dirt car.

Oh yeah, when you do all your suspension measurements, make sure you have the car "loaded" properly with the correct total weight and front to rear weight... Heck, bring it over and we'll put it on the scales, too, and have some real fun!!!!!!!

Dave,

If I set the camber at 0 degree (what VBP suggests for street use) and 1/8" toe. Looks like I'm at -1 degree at jounce (compression of suspension). Looks like the QA's I got are only good for 4" of overall travel. I'll set them up at 60% rested height like Speedway suggests so I have a little more compressed travel. I'm shooting for 2.5" of compressed travel. I know you mentioned some time back to try to go with much more over-all travel. I just cant......believe me I tried to get more. Looks like I'm stuck with a max of 2.5" of up travel. Darn.... I'm trying to set up a 1 1/4 (1/4 wall....fairly heavy) thru frame sway bar from Speedway Engineering. 17" arms. The trouble I'm running into is finding room to make it work. At this time looks like I'm stuck with mounting the bar behind the rear with the arms over the hub....still working on it. Deciding on mounting positions has been a real bear... At this time...no matter what...looks like Ive got some bracket mock-ups (spread out over 2 different factory bolt mounts) to try out. Definitely going to be trial and error. The one place I really want to mount the coil-overs is in the area where they mount the factory spring bushings....I'll have to hog it out....kind of worries me. Dont want to break off the toe strut link...Still thinking. Rich Lagasee did this same mounting location for his coil-overs on his 63 Split Window....but I honestly dont think that car was designed for street use. I'm trying to drop him an email about it. I sure wish I was closer so I could weigh this thing.....I'll get some pics this week-end. I'm sure you guys will see what I mean by mounting issues.....travel issues.....etc. I didnt want to lose any of my bed depth. As it is...I raised my bed 1" so I could raise the frame rails an inch to get the 2.5" travel.

Thanks so much to both of you.....Dave and Jerry! I appreciate the input. Any more thoughts....please post.

Dave

Guys....This might help...and might not. Dont burn me. I'm on over 20 forums....I really thought the Pro Tour guys would help with this...or Digital Corvettes....or Lateral-G's. You two have helped more than anyone. To that....here is some fairly recent pics from my build at another place...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...22&action=view

Another note: We were very fortunate to have a pro concrete man pour and level our floor...it actually is perfectly level (well....I know nothing is perfect) with the exception of the drains in the middle. I know I shouldve set up some sort of a jig.....I just felt the floor was real close to level so I've been working off of it. Jack stands are set and havent been moved since placed and tack welded. I hope its sufficient.


Dave