Well, if you're intent on splitting the wishbones instead of putting a 4 link in it, then the single heim to me looks like a great big wreck that hasn't happened yet. My question would be, how much torque are you planning on putting to a pair of 70 year old wishbones? The hairpins are a little better, but not much. For the street, I would recomend NOT using heims, but instead some polyurethene rod end with 3/4" shafts and either 5/8" or 3/4" holes in the bushing end. The additional torque link is a good idea coming off the banjo, but it would be better if it was two tubes, one off the top and one off the bottom, coming forward and the two tubes welded into one with another 3/4" X 3/5" poly rod end attachment to the crossmember. Also, to prevent binding the entire thing up, the torque link and split wishbones will have to be the same length and travelling in the same arc or something is going to be stressed terribly. The only way I see to get any control on the body roll issue is to use a sway bar with the attachment points as far out on the rear end as possible. Might want to consider one of the torsion bar type sway bars with the adjustable links. Are you running a transverse spring or coil overs on the rear??? If it's coilovers, you are also going to need a Watts linkage to control lateral movement on the rear end. This probably isn't required on a transverse spring, but would be highly recomended. By the time you are all done welding brackets on the rear end housing, unless you use some very good heat control you could warp the housing. And, just visualizing the end result, the rear end of the car is going to look quite cluttered, or at the very least very "busy" with all those bars and brackets. Have you considered instead of the split wishbones and everything else required to make the car handle, just using a tiangulated 4 link rear suspension?????