I'M FLIPPING THE SPINDLES ON MY 53 MERC AND I WAS TOLT I NEED EXTENDED STEERING ARMS. IS THAT NECESSARRY? IT LOOKS LIKE IT MIGHT WORK W/O IT.
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I'M FLIPPING THE SPINDLES ON MY 53 MERC AND I WAS TOLT I NEED EXTENDED STEERING ARMS. IS THAT NECESSARRY? IT LOOKS LIKE IT MIGHT WORK W/O IT.
I'M DOING THE SAME, HOW MUCH DROP DID YOU GET, AND DID YOU GO FROM SIDE TO SIDE
I GOT ABOUT 2'', 1 7/8'' TO BE EXACT. IF YOU MEASURE THE DISTANCE FROM THE 2 HOLES TO THE SPINDLE YOU CAN FIGURE IT OUT THAT WAY. I DID IT WHEN I DID MY FRONT END REBUILD KIT--GOT IT FROM KANTER IF YOURE INTERESTED
OH YEAH, I DIDNT SWITCH THEM SIDE TO SIDE CUZ THEYRE IDENTICAL, AND THE PIECE THAT CONNECTS TO THE STEERING ARM--STRAIGHT W/ A HALF CIRCLE SHAPE-- (DONT KNOW THE NAME OF IT) CAN BE UNBOLTED FROM THE BACK OF SPINDLE ASSEMBLY. ANOTHER TIP, DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. I HAD TO CHECK THE OTHER SIDE NUMEROUS TIMES TO MAKE SURE I WAS DOING IT RIGHT
Thanks mercman! I know this is an old trick, but couldn't understand why people bought dropped spindles, when this seems better? still not low enough,
Did this one on a 50 Ford sedan many years back.
The offset to the upper and lower spindle pivot points will end up with a tremendous amount of camber when inverted.
30 degrees or so as I remember.
I've heard of guys extending the upper A-arm, but I didn't have the equipment to do that at the time so I got to do the job all over again and return the spindles to normal.
Some guys lower the 49-53 Fords by cutting the rivets loose on the lower A-arm and welding/bolting in a spacer block, but that's really no different than cutting a coil.
Only thing that happens there is the bottom of the coil sits in the same plane the lower A-arm original did and the spindle sits higher which lowers the car.
One fairly good way to do it is to make up a couple of 1/4" tabs (two per side) that are welded - and suitably gusseted - to the top of the lower A-arm just above the original pivot point.
These tabs will have a threaded Acme type bushing at the pivot point that will accept the original lower Acme pivot bolt.
You don't want to get too crazy here as far as drop goes.
Measure center to center of the original Acme pivot bolt hole and the new pivot point to see the actual amount of drop.
Since the tab sits up on top of the outer end of the lower A-arm, the tab will be shorter than the actual drop gained.
Using this tab method retains stock suspension travel.
Three inches is too much and two inches with stock coils is about right.
The three inch tabs with two coils cut will get the car down so low that you can't roll a tennis ball under the front crossmember.
One coil cut on these cars - with nothing else done - is about right.
You get a touch of lowness and the car is still very practical for most driving.
One and a half coils cut is about the max you should go.
Two coils cut will have the lower A-arm lying on the rubber snubber which is not so good.
I know, some of you want a tremendous amount of lowness, but it's completely impractical, not to mention illegal as far as scrub line laws go.
Nice and low is one thing, stupid-low is another....
hey mattilas, i was just finishing up the first side of my spindle flip and realized that when the spindles are flipped and not swapped side to side, there is a bolt that hits the steering stop WAY too soon ! So, apart comes my suspension once again to switch them side to side. sorry bout the mis-information earlier
I talk to some guys and they said it helped with the camber????????????? keep up the good work, I'll do mine when your done
GOOD DEAL, I WILL PROBABLY TEAR APART THE LEFT SIDE TOMORROW, (NOV 8TH) (I DID RIGHT SIDE FIRST) I WILL POST A NEW REPLY AS SOON AS I KNOW THE SWITCH WORKED WELL....
HEY MATTILAS, I JUST GOT AN EMAIL BACK FROM THE SENIOR EDITOR OF ROD AND CUSTOM MAG AND HE SAID IT WS PROBABLY A SIDE TO SIDE SWAP, BUT HE SAID HE WOULD LOOK INTO IT. I'LL LET YOU KNOW AS SOON AS I KNOW, SO YOU DONT HAVE TO GO THRU THE SAME SHIT AS I DID
Larry Watson did it to his 53 ford four dr, back in the old days,[ his high shool car], rod & custom did a story on him, the car was the feature pic, looked ok to me.
You guys might learn something from this......
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/a...hp/t-6342.html
THANKS TECH INSPECTOR, I DONT HAVE A TORCH THOUGH. ANYONE KNOW OF ANY WAYS TO DO THIS W/O A TORCH ?
There should be a good rental store in Reno that has one.
I guess this trick works on shoebox fords as well as 46-48 plymouths. I'm probably going to try it on my 48. Keep you posted on progress.
Don't even think about bending it without heat! Its bad enough doing it with the gas axe. Glad none of you are going to meet me coming the other way at highway speeds! 50 year old iron is barely reliable without messing with it, bending it introduces all kinds of unpredictable variables. Buy the new spindles! Just because we usta do it don't mean its right! I can remember going out at three AM to retrieve a '49 Ford that broke a flipped spindle and hit a culvert at 60, messed it up bad!
How's the Merc coming along? haven't heard from you, Hope it didn't fall off the jack . Starting to sound like a clip to me I didn't want to go that way, but this isn't as easy as I thought.
yeah, its really not as easy as i thought either. it's been coming slow, now all i gotta do is take my parts in to a machine shop and have the kingpin pressed out and flip the spindles themselves. im almost 100% sure this is all i gotta do, i'll let you know when she's finally sitting on the front wheels and all together.
got any update on your project ?? i'm in limbo as to a flip or front clip and what you all come up with will carry a lot of weight.
thanks
joe
PS
what do you think the total cost will be with the front end rebuild included?
well, i talket to this old guy here in reno who has a repair shop and has a few 50's ford pickups. he told me that it just wouldnt work, because it wound end up with tons of neg. camber that you couldnt fix. i decided to cut about 1 1/2 coils off the springs instead--i know that'll work. honestly though, i still want to try it, because i think its possible to make it work. so, go for it if you want and please tell me ifit works well, but i went for the quicker lowering job that i was sure about.
good luck !