Bad Ast Astro Van Build

It sure does feel good to be back on this.
I got the front line ran Sunday morning. A flare, 2 bends and a few clips and it is in place.
http://images46.fotki.com/v1637/phot...MVC008F-vi.jpg
I made a little sketch to get the bends in the right spot.
http://images41.fotki.com/v1634/phot...MVC002F-vi.jpg
All clipped in. I put the clips on 12" centers. Seems to support the line very well. I need to terminate the end of course, but I can't do that until the front suspension is mocked up. I'll do that along with the rear.
http://images51.fotki.com/v1638/phot...MVC014F-vi.jpg
Had to a little re-routing to get around the motor mount tubes. Looks okay? or not...
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC011F-vi.jpg
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC012F-vi.jpg
I used the tubing straightener I built a while back to get all of the lines straight. It works like a champ.
http://images20.fotki.com/v1632/phot...MVC021F-vi.jpg
I also spent some time figuring out where to put the soft line tabs. I need to weld one to the rear shock cross member but want to verify rear end travel before I do. You can see the layout lines above the shock mount hole in the cross member.
http://images41.fotki.com/v1634/phot...MVC013F-vi.jpg
I will be assembling the rear suspension so I can run it thru it's travels (and finish the shock mounts. :)).
Mark

Got the rear suspension assembled tonight. It still fits... which is a good thing.
I rolled the housing underneath the frame after rotating it flat on the rotisserie. The better half helped hold the housing while I got the bars slipped into place.
https://images41.fotki.com/v1634/pho...MVC002F-vi.jpg

https://images51.fotki.com/v1638/pho...MVC003F-vi.jpg
With the bars all bolted up and the panhard bar in place I used a couple of tie down straps to get it raised up so I could connect the shocks.
https://images12.fotki.com/v1641/pho...MVC005F-vi.jpg

https://images54.fotki.com/v1642/pho...MVC009F-vi.jpg

I was also working on the upper shock attachments. Right now there is a 1" hole drilled thru both sides of the upper cross member. I went to Durand and picked up a 4' piece of 1" O.D. x 1/4" wall D.O.M. and cut a couple of sleeves for the 1/2" bolts that hold the upper shock eyes. Once everything is pulled back apart I will weld these in.
https://images34.fotki.com/v1633/pho...MVC010F-vi.jpg

https://images12.fotki.com/v1641/pho...MVC011F-vi.jpg
Getting this hung in there tonight was enough for me. Tomorrow I'll start finishing up the brake line stuff.
Mark

You are sure hitting it hard. All looks good.

Nice work. It is looking great. Where did you get the brake line straightener at?

Thanks guys! Appreciate it.
Ryan, I built the straightener in the shop.
Here is a bit of a build thread.
Shop Built Tubing Straightener - HomemadeTools.net
Mark

Last nite I went to bed at 9:30. Woke up at 10:30 and my mind was running, working on the van. I never got back to sleep and was still awake when the alarm went off at 3:45. It was well worth it though as I figured out how I am going to drop the engine in the frame. It's still a bit of a tear up but it's super easy and all I have to make are a few 1/4" plates. Everything else will be reused after I cut the cross members out. I worked on the design all day today in UG and have dimensioned drawings. I am going to wait to do the job until I have the frame on the ground. I just need to verify ground clearance to the lowered cross members and trans pan but I think the plan will work.
I'll get some screen shots up loaded so you can see where I am taking it.
Mark

Loosing sleep over a project: THAT is focus!

Thanks! That's not what my wife calls it... :)
Here are some screen shots up so you can see where I am taking it.
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...m_00031-vi.jpg
http://images52.fotki.com/v1639/phot...m_00032-vi.jpg
The biggest change is the drop-out piece in the rear cross member. This will allow removal of the pan without having to yank the engine.
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...m_00033-vi.jpg
Mark

Good job figuring out the shortie plugs for your prop valve. I'd have just run in a long plug tight, maybe with some red locktite, and cut it off flush.

Cutting off the long plugs wasn't an option. The plugs are actually unfinished flare fittings.
http://images34.fotki.com/v1633/phot...MVC006F-vi.jpg
The drilled hole goes almost as deep as the head of the fitting. Cutting it off would have left an open hole... :)

I built a motor mount jig tonight. I used the solid motor mounts, bolted them in and then welded some tube and angle to maintain their position when unbolted.
http://images45.fotki.com/v1636/phot...MVC021S-vi.jpg
Now I can cut them out and gut the cross member and not worry about getting them back where they belong.
http://images12.fotki.com/v1641/phot...MVC013S-vi.jpg
I tacked pieces of angle onto the frame to locate a piece of 2 x 4 tubing set on the top rails.
http://images52.fotki.com/v1639/phot...MVC012S-vi.jpg
Another piece of angle is welded to both ends of the 2 x 4 to locate it side to side
http://images61.fotki.com/v1635/phot...MVC011S-vi.jpg
I then tacked some more angle to the 2 x 4 to locate the jig side to side.
http://images45.fotki.com/v1636/phot...MVC020S-vi.jpg
Now, once the mounts are cut out and trimmed I can drop them straight down 3 inches and rebuild the attachments to the frame.
http://images41.fotki.com/v1634/phot...Smarkup-vi.jpg
If I can delete that cross member I will be happy. :) What do you think? With all of the bracing going back to the upper rail I don't think all of that structure is necessary. The engine itself with act as a stressed member so can I get rid of that cross member and get some ground clearance back?
Mark

The engine itself generates tortion stress. I wouldn't rely upon it to add structure: that is the frame's job.

True. If I keep the cross member I think I will reduce the size from the 2" DOM down to 1". That will still gain me some clearance and keep the rails from spreading.
Mark

Well, I did some serious thinking, looking back through all of my build pics and came to the conclusion the engine is staying where it is. Too many other issues when I start lowering it more. Alternator, oil pan clearance, trans mount, etc. I am leaving it where it sits and I will deal with the air cleaner/dog house issue when I get to it.
I've been working on the brake line routing. Like the rear suspension I mocked up both of the front suspensions so I could bolt up the soft lines I got from Tobin at Kore3.
Everything looks pretty good, I have the spots for the weld-on tabs marked out and am looking at steering stops, stab bar attachments and a few other issues that need to be rectified before the chassis is painted.
Here are a few pics from the last few nights.
One tab needs a cut out to fit on the rear crossmember.
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...MVC016S-vi.jpg
Cut out with the bandsaw and cleaned up with the grinder, fits like a glove...
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC017S-vi.jpg
This is where the tab will go. On the drivers side right above the shock mount.
http://images12.fotki.com/v1641/phot...VC022S2-vi.jpg
I hung the front suspensions & brake corners.
http://images52.fotki.com/v1639/phot...VC019S2-vi.jpg
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...VC016S2-vi.jpg
With the lines bolted to the calipers I could move the corner through left and right steer to see where the lines wanted to fall naturally. This is important to avoid twisting the lines during steer. Twisting will weaken the lines AND MAY loosen fittings over time. Not a good thing.
With no steer, going straight, the hose is relaxed and in a good spot to stay out of the coil-over AND the wheel as it is spinning rapidly next to it. (I hope)...
http://images34.fotki.com/v1633/phot...MVC018S-vi.jpg
RH corner at right lock. The hose curls up in a linear arch with no twist.
http://images61.fotki.com/v1635/phot...MVC019S-vi.jpg
At full left lock the hose still has some length so it is not pulling against either fitting.
http://images52.fotki.com/v1639/phot...MVC021S-vi.jpg
The LH side line is pretty much a mirror image of the right side. I thought it would be but I still had to mock it up to verify my "think so".
http://images46.fotki.com/v1637/phot...VC017S2-vi.jpg

Next step will be mounting the rack and developing the steering stops. Is there a rule of thumb for how much to leave at the end of rack travel? I was thinking about a 1/4" or so. Anybody?
Well, that's where I'm at with it. Lots to do to get this thing wrapped up and paint ready.
Mark

I got a bit done tonight. Worked on the steering stops. I bolted in the rack and got the steering "wheel" centered (it's a pair of vise grips...). Full lock to lock on the Corvette rack is 2.63 turns, just shy of 2 3/4's. Turning the wheel to full lock and then backing out of that by about 1/4" of travel (on the knuckle) should get me a good starting point for setting up the stop bolts.
I took some pics but it's kind of hard to see. I used a magnet to set the bolt where I want to hit the LCA and measured for a piece of 3/8th's plate I will use to fab the bolt tab.
This is the right lock stop bolt on the passenger side.
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC006S-vi.jpg
This is the right lock bolt on the drivers side.
http://images45.fotki.com/v1636/phot...MVC009S-vi.jpg
Using these positions I came up with 4 stop tabs that just happen to all be the same size. 1" wide by 1 1/2" long. I laid them out on a scrap piece of 3/8th's and chunked them out with the bandsaw.
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC017S-vi.jpg
I laid out the hole in each one and drilled and tapped for a 3/8-16. The tap I used is out of the original Craftsman tap and die set I bought with graduation money in 1974... It has cut a LOT of threads and I have never broken any of the taps. :)
http://images41.fotki.com/v1634/phot...MVC028S-vi.jpg
I'll round these over a bit before I weld them to the knuckles. I will also flatten that edge on the control arm to give a better target for the bolt head.
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...MVC022S-vi.jpg
I got SOMETHING done tonight. ;)
Mark

Picked up a junction block for the front brake lines. It will split the line from the prop valve out to the left and right front calipers.
It will sit on the driver side inner frame rail.
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...MVC005S-vi.jpg
I grabbed a chunk of NiCop (my last bug piece) and started looking at getting it routed from the junction block to the passenger side rail.
The best route was running back a bit to the last crossmember that runs right under the front of the engine. After getting a few bends done it started looking pretty good.
http://images12.fotki.com/v1641/phot...MVC002S-vi.jpg
Dinking it around all of that tubing took some time but I got it ran and I didn't destroy it in the process. :)
http://images52.fotki.com/v1639/phot...MVC009S-vi.jpg
This is the passenger side. It runs forward a bit once it gets back to the rail and will drop down under the rail to reach the weld-on brake tab. I won't finish this end until the tab is installed.
http://images51.fotki.com/v1638/phot...MVC003S-vi.jpg
The line is still loose, I haven't added the clips yet. I will center it and tweak the fit as I install the clips.
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC012S-vi.jpg
I also got the line built from the junction to the left front tab. This was a no brainer as it was only about 4" long with one bend.
I took some quick measurements and did a layout so I could get the bend and the lengths out to the tab correct.
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC014S-vi.jpg
Once I had that figured out I put a flare on each end and a bend in the middle. Done!
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC022S-vi.jpg
Fits like a glove!
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...MVC026S-vi.jpg
Thanks for watching!
Mark

Didn't get a lot of time out in the shop Sunday but it was enough to get the clips mounted for the Right Front hardline.
I started in the middle of the crossmember. Once this was tightened up I could center the line and determine where to put the end clips.
http://images52.fotki.com/v1639/phot...MVC001S-vi.jpg
I mounted the outer clips so they captured the tangent of the bend radius on each end. This keeps the line from itching around between the clips.
http://images45.fotki.com/v1636/phot...MVC014S-vi.jpg
This is the driver side bolted up.
http://images12.fotki.com/v1641/phot...MVC016S-vi.jpg
And the passenger side. I'll finish routing this end after the brake tabs are welded on.
http://images12.fotki.com/v1641/phot...MVC015S-vi.jpg

Mark

I was working on another project during the week so I didn't get much done on the van until Saturday morning. I rolled the tubing bender out and got the rear anti-roll bar bent up.
I made a drawing of the bar in CAD with dimensions so laying it out took no guess work. The 4.71 dimension is the arc length of the "centerline" of the bend. This is the length of tubing used to make the 90deg bend between the tangents.
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...MVC009S-vi.jpg
Using the roller jig to mark the tubing. I laid out the tangent lines just like the drawing said. Rolling the tubing in the jig gives me a perfectly straight line, all around the tubing, at each tangent point. makes setting it up in the bender easy.
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC010S-vi.jpg
http://images45.fotki.com/v1636/phot...MVC012S-vi.jpg
Here you can see the two tangent points laid out for one bend.
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...MVC007S-vi.jpg
Getting the bender set up. Having it on the cart AND automated, sure does make this less of a chore. The rear bar is 1" O.D. x .095 wall 4130. it bends pretty easy anyway but this makes fun. :)
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...jpg?1486245473
Set up for the 1st bend and about a 1/2 of the way through it.
http://images16.fotki.com/v382/photo...jpg?1486245478
Out to 90 degrees. I am sneaking up on 90 here. To get "90" the tubing needs to be over bent so that, when it springs back, it stays at 90. I over bend it a bit, stop, loosen the jack screw to let the machine relax, measure the bend then bend a bit more if needed. I did this twice for the first bend and once for the second. Knowing what it takes helps with the second bend.
http://images46.fotki.com/v1637/phot...MVC015S-vi.jpg
getting the second bend done.
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...jpg?1486245479
Part of doing this correctly is making sure the second bend is on the same plane as the 1st bend. Having one leg point up and the other pointing down is not a good thing.
This is the bar after bending. Setting it on the floor tells me if I got it right or not. No rocking in either direction means I got it right.:)
http://images46.fotki.com/v1637/phot...MVC017S-vi.jpg
In this pic you can see the tangent points and where they fell in the bend.
http://images46.fotki.com/v1637/phot...MVC018S-vi.jpg
All trimmed up and ready for the endlink tabs to be welded on. I won't do that until I get the rest of the system mocked into place so I can tack everything at one time.
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...MVC020S-vi.jpg
This is how the bar looked in my CAD model.
http://images45.fotki.com/v1636/phot...ARREAR1-vi.jpg
Thanks for following.
Mark

Thanks for all the great pics and the detailed updates.
I'm not sure if I've ever said this to you, but... you do some great work!

Yep, exactly what the man above said as I enjoy looking and following along too.

Yup times three great picture too. Really makes it easy to see how to go about doing stuff like this, makes one aware of mistake posibitlities before actually creating them. I wish more people here would take the time to help people new to metal working and shaping went thru the same effort you and a few other members here are doing on a regular basis. Some of the current threads running here over the last year have gone above and beyond helping us wood workers become metal workers! Thanks again

Got sidetracked a bit Sunday helping out a buddy. He is building a '67 small window C10 and wants the rear window to go up and down. He brought his window and gasket material and we bend up some "L" pieces so he can build the new window channel. Ran them thru the HF 3 in 1 to get the bend and then thru the shrinker\stretcher to get the curve. Took about three hours to get them to a point he can sweeten them up and get his channels made.
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC002S-vi.jpg


http://images51.fotki.com/v1638/phot...MVC005S-vi.jpg


http://images51.fotki.com/v1638/phot...MVC006S-vi.jpg


This truck is going to be a cool build.

Got a few things done in the last couple of days. I got the tabs welded onto the stab bar and got that mocked up.
https://images59.fotki.com/v1640/pho...MVC031S-vi.jpg
[img]https://images12.fotki.com/v1641/photos/5/904975/14233327/MVC027S-vi.jpg
[/img]
https://images52.fotki.com/v1639/pho...MVC032S-vi.jpg
https://images45.fotki.com/v1636/pho...MVC033S-vi.jpg
Mocked up on the stands with bushings.
https://images52.fotki.com/v1639/pho...VC001S3-vi.jpg
https://images45.fotki.com/v1636/pho...VC002S4-vi.jpg
Thanks for watching.
Mark

I got around to ordering the springs for the coil overs this week. Got them thru Speedway, they were on sale and, with free shipping, I saved a bit of cash.
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC025S-vi.jpg
Mocked up on a shock. I also got the Thrust bearings that go between the spring and lower seat.
http://images52.fotki.com/v1639/phot...MVC026S-vi.jpg
Instead of welding on the brake tabs I decided to go with these bolt on guys. I think this will be a lot cleaner on the frame. As you can see I have them bolted down already.
https://images59.fotki.com/v1640/pho...VC011S2-vi.jpg
https://images46.fotki.com/v1637/pho...MVC014S-vi.jpg
I did have an issue with these though. As received the hole for the brake line was to small. I had to drill them out with a 5/8ths bit to get the line to go in.
This was one of the straight tabs I had been using.
https://images45.fotki.com/v1636/pho...MVC020S-vi.jpg
This was the hole size in the new tabs...
https://images12.fotki.com/v1641/pho...MVC019S-vi.jpg
.025 makes a big difference here.
Mark

Nice work and nice new parts. Where did you get the line tabs at?

Hey Ryan, I got the tabs thru Speedway. 9.99 a pair. Removable Brake Line Tabs
Working with Craig at Bowler we have the PCS Shift Controller and Paddles on their way. PCS has downloadable files available so I downloaded an IGES file of the paddles and added them into my Steering Wheel File.
Getting the paddles to work will require a fabbed adapter to go thru the paddles to pick up the steering wheel bolts. No biggie, I have a lot of 2 1/2" alum bar stock to make it out of.
https://images46.fotki.com/v1637/pho...OLUMN13-vi.jpg
With the 2" extension, the .81 thick paddle assembly and the 1/2" thick cover I am moving the steering wheel about 4" in the right direction. This should work well with the moderate set back of the driver seat.
Looking down the column.
https://images51.fotki.com/v1638/pho...COLUMN8-vi.jpg
here is the stack from the passenger side. The little silver part is the adapter I have to make. Everything else I will have.
This remote shifter thing was a bit spendy but it was something I needed to do to get the engine cover cleaned off. Too much stuff going on in too small of an area.
https://images59.fotki.com/v1640/pho...OLUMN14-vi.jpg
Hopefully the PCS stuff will get here in a timely manner.
Mark

Thanks Mark. The PCS stuff is very nice. I've used a couple in diesel conversions.

Cool cad images, nice to be able to make your own stuff

Thanks guys!
Got a big box from PCS yesterday! The parts look great. I'll get pics but I didn't have time last night.
Mott Community College and Back to the Bricks are collaborating on a program they call Hot Rod High. This program allows high school and college students the opportunity to get their hands dirty actually building a car.
I was asked to be one of the mentors in the program and we had a meeting last night. We are working on a '30 Model A 2 door coupe. The body is a pile and the chassis and suspension are from Speedway.
It's pretty cool working with the kids. Some of them know a few things but most of them are clueless. It's nice to be working with kids that are there to actually learn and gain some knowledge.
Mark

Not to many of them out there today

That sounds like an awesome project! That's pretty cool you got asked to mentor it as well. Congrats!It is ridiculous how many school systems have ditched the shop classes. What trades will these kids learn besides how to fly a drone or design a living room set?

Yes, it's good to see the young guys and girls wanting to get their hands dirty working on an old car. Hopefully taking this class will light a fire. We need the younger gen to take over for us someday.
Contents of the boxes that came last week.
The Paddle Shifter Box
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...MVC016F-vi.jpg
http://images45.fotki.com/v1636/phot...MVC005S-vi.jpg
The Remote Shifter Box.
http://images54.fotki.com/v1642/phot...MVC024F-vi.jpg
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC020F-vi.jpg
As you can see, the paddles have a circuit board right where I was planning to mount my fabbed adapter. No biggie, The adapter will be a bit different, that's all.
I have it remodeled now and detailed so I can make it on the mill.
Mark

Been a while since I got any reportable work done on the van. Getting sick for a week put a real crimp on my energy level and I am just now getting back to a feeling good point.
Went out today and finished setting up all of the rear stab bar components. Centered the rear housing in the chassis and got all of the links and brackets mocked up. Marked everything for cleaning up the weld areas of paint and broke out the flap disc grinder.
With everything cleaned up I got the welder fired up and welded on the stab bar towers.
http://images40.fotki.com/v992/photo...MVC011F-vi.jpg
http://images108.fotki.com/v1221/pho...MVC003F-vi.jpg
With those finally in place I set the stab bar back up and got the rear brackets welded on.
http://images46.fotki.com/v1637/phot...MVC005F-vi.jpg
http://images52.fotki.com/v1639/phot...MVC007F-vi.jpg
It all looks good with the links bolted back in.
http://images12.fotki.com/v539/photo...MVC002F-vi.jpg
http://images108.fotki.com/v1221/pho...MVC014F-vi.jpg
I also did some work on the steering wheel adapter for the PCS shifter set up. Got a chunk of 1/2" aluminum cut out and marked to start making it.
Got a lot done today, thanks for watching.
Mark

Good to see you back at it... good to hear you're feeling better too.

Man what ever is going around sure knocks the crap out of you

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cffisher

Man what ever is going around sure knocks the crap out of you

---

Yes Sir! I was down for about a week but the way it hung on after I was feeling better was tenacious. After three weeks I can say I am over it.

We had a virus going around the Hospital that was similar to walking pneumonia. Took two courses of antibiotics(may have been a bacterial infection) to finally kick the symptoms of coughing occasionally and running out of energy by early afternoon(for 5 weeks), night and morning congestion. Just now getting my digestive track back online. Glad to hear your doing better

Got a bit more done over the weekend. Ran the front suspensions thru jounce and rebound and full L/R lock. Laid out the final positions for the steering stops and got those tacked in.
After grinding the paint off I marked the positions with black felt pen.
http://images52.fotki.com/v1639/phot...MVC001F-vi.jpg
Checking the positioning and making sure everything is in the right spot. This is the passenger side as the frame is upside down on the rotisserie.
http://images108.fotki.com/v1221/pho...MVC004F-vi.jpg
This is the driver side front stop tacked on.
http://images46.fotki.com/v1637/phot...MVC010F-vi.jpg
I will pull the spindles out to finish the welding. I had everything wrapped in welding blankets while tacking but I didn't want to put that kind of heat into the blankets.
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...MVC009F-vi.jpg
I probably should have rounded those corners over before I tacked them on... Oh well the big grinder will get a work out. :)
Mark

Worked on the steering wheel adapters this past week. I was doing a test fit Monday night and found the wheel adapter I had in my stash was to small to fit the Astro column. I ordered an adapter kit from Summit. While I was waiting for that I got to work making the upper adapter plate. This is the piece that will go between the steering wheel and the PCS paddle shifter unit. It will use 5 #10-32 x 1 1/2" long SHCS to bolt the PCS unit onto the extension. The extension will bolt to the new adapter when it comes in. (hopefully)...
I dug out a chunk of 1/2" thick aluminum plate and laid out the bolt circles on it. One for the 5 bolts that go thru the PCS unit and one for the three bolts that hold on the steering wheel and horn button asm. After clamping the piece in the mill I drilled a center hole for "zero" for the next operation.
https://images47.fotki.com/v1402/pho...MVC001F-vi.jpg
Using the bolt pattern feature on the DRO made drilling both of the bolt patterns easy. This feature sure does save a lot of time over hand laying out all of these holes. With the piece clamped in and zeroed all I have to do is plug in the both circle diameter, the number of holes, the start and end angles (in this case 0 and 360) and hit enter. The first hole location is a dead straight move in the X out tot he radial position of the first hole. In the pic that would be the one to the right in the picture.
https://images59.fotki.com/v1640/pho...MVC013F-vi.jpg
Every consecutive hole after that is reached by simply pressing the down button to move the next hole and twisting the mill handles until both X and Y are zeroed out. It makes doing this a no brainer...
Here the five outer holes have been drilled and I am starting on the three inners.
https://images14.fotki.com/v384/phot...MVC017F-vi.jpg
Once all of the holes are drilled I re-zero the cutter, which has been changed out for a counter bore tool and re-run the program.
https://images14.fotki.com/v384/phot...MVC016F-vi.jpg
With all of the holes done I could get the three inner holes tapped for 1/4-20's.
Chunking off the excess material so I can get the adapter turned round in the lathe.
https://images59.fotki.com/v1640/pho...MVC010F-vi.jpg
After a few minutes of trimming. Using the hold downs from a clamping kit on the saw makes this kind of off hand cutting a whole lot easier. Sure beats doing it by hand on the vertical. This way I can do other things while the H/V is cutting.
https://images47.fotki.com/v826/phot...MVC017F-vi.jpg
I made this mandrel years ago for another project. The small pilot is sized for the .422 dia. tap drill for a 1/2"-13 thread. I drilled the center hole out to that so I could use the mandrel to chuck the adapter in the lathe.
https://images14.fotki.com/v699/phot...MVC005F-vi.jpg
https://images59.fotki.com/v1640/pho...MVC006F-vi.jpg
https://images14.fotki.com/v384/phot...MVC008F-vi.jpg
Spinning in the lathe. I use real light cuts here and take my time.
https://images46.fotki.com/v1637/pho...MVC017F-vi.jpg
After it was good and round I chamfered the edges and cleaned up the surfaces with some ScotchBrite while it still spinning.
https://images12.fotki.com/v539/phot...MVC018F-vi.jpg
All cleaned up and ready for a test bolting. This will get painted satin black to match the rest of the column.
https://images54.fotki.com/v1642/pho...MVC019F-vi.jpg
With everything bolted together it all fits and looks pretty good. I know it looks tall but this will put it right about where it needs to be for the new seat placement.
https://images51.fotki.com/v1638/pho...MVC005F-vi.jpg
https://images12.fotki.com/v539/phot...MVC008F-vi.jpg
Gotten a lot done so far this week... Thanks for following.
Mark

Worked in the shop and on the computer last night. The steering wheel interface to the paddle shifter is 4.75" in diameter. That's exactly an 1" bigger then the first plate I made. I remodeled the plate and added a big chamfer around the perimeter where it mates to the shifter unit.
http://images40.fotki.com/v697/photo...COLUMN6-vi.jpg
http://images59.fotki.com/v1640/phot...COLUMN5-vi.jpg
The new, smooth shroud will be made out of an exhaust pipe reducer. 4" to 3 1/2" will work perfect. I'll be hitting the muffler shop tonight to see if they have any that size.