Good Morning, I am wondering, what is the easiest to install and maintain, IFS system?
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Good Morning, I am wondering, what is the easiest to install and maintain, IFS system?
whats easy got to do with it???????
The M2 will probably be easiest to fab/install in a 30s 40s era build and be real simple-----
If you are building something wider and more later, and want a car that handles/stops good---l would suggest looking at the C4 with the alum parts, big modern brakes( requires large wheel diameter((not good idea for big/littles)) power r & p steering, coil overs, etc-then look at the C4-----------
c4 . personally i do not like mll . i have installed many but would not have one of my own . i prefer a gm clip or even an s10 clip .
and there is nothing easy about this stuff.
What are you working on? I agree with the above, but would throw something from Fatman Fabrication out there depending on what you've got going..
Welcome to CHR Hondo 78 Enjoy your stay As mentioned above It would help if we had more info. With out that GM subframe
If easy install is the main criteria, then depending on what the application is there are any number of companies making bolt on MII packages..... The Vette stuff is really first rate, but it's going to take some serious fabricating skills to work it into a chassis.......
Hey!! My pick would be M11,for the money and ease of install! Stay away from the cheep M11($1300,Hoffman Group) I put a Heidts on my 37 Chevy Pickup,Bilstiens shocks and anti sway bar. For the street you can go wrong with M11. Just my opinion! Pete
i have replaced 4 mll that fatigued and cracked at the lower control arm. the only mll worth having is a fatman . it is made from heavy wall tube not 3/16 or 1/8 plate welded together .
Shine------were those some without the lower rear arm????Ford put that there for a reason!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
no , some had the torsion bar. a couple had the wider lower aframe . the problem is the thin plate they weld together for a crossmember. most are 1/8 in plate welded together than ground down smooth . i refuse to even install or work on one any more.
this one came from edwards 37. i bought the car in 94 and it already was a roller . not home made or cheap . i wont mention the mfg. but it busted out the frame first so we put plate on it and the extended a-arm to get him through summer. then i cut it off and used a fatman stub.
you can see the chaulk marks where i welded the cracks. there has been many failures and injuries over these things.
The stock cross member looks stronger than that. :LOL:
Yea it do :LOL::LOL:
stock xmemeber is doubled in the aframe area and also has a roll around the edge. i have never seen a stock one fail. the one above is a well known kit but most all of them are made the same way.
the fatman is thick wall tube. no way it will ever fatigue and break . edward drives his car almost daily on rough roads.
Definitely a lot more heavy duty then the run of the mill MII stuff! Even using the Fat Man stuff I still add a few frame to x-member gussets... I've used the thing wall stuff, too. They need some plates over the lower A-Arm holes front and back, a metal tube inside the X-Member for the lower A-Arm bolt to pass through and especially the extra gusseting! But then I seldom use anything as-is out of the box...The racer in me keeps remembering all of those "store bought" parts that tend to break at the most inopportune time!!!!!!
we need a poll for the most useful hot rod tools---I'll say rat tail file and of course a welder--------seems like all the intake manifolds needed some bolt hole clearancing on at least 2 or 3 bolts--------
The fatman stub is pretty nice. I just can't justify spending that coin on a stub when my frame could use a recycling at that point. :LOL: Someday when I have most of my projects running and driving, my 40 will get a complete new frame. But that's after a house and a new bigger shop. Yeah, it may be a while. Haha