warm statring problem-need help

I have a 351w in my T-bucket. It will start up beautifully right away when the engine is cold. it idles great .Then I take it for a drive, come back to the house turn off the motor and let it sit for 15-30 minutes. Then when I go to start it again....no go (battery does have full power at this point) It will turn over good but will not catch. The battery loses its power quickly and the spark isn't very strong or consitent.. After turning over a bit I can smell gas but, when I pull a plug it is not wet. The alternator is new and is charging the battery.
This is very frusterating and is really starting to piss me off!
Please help if you can, I have come to the very end of my knowledge.


P.S. When she is running, there is no problem staying running and no problem accelerating.
The motor is a '77, overhauld bored 6o over, heads decked, performer cam and manifold, Holley 600.:CRY: :CRY: :CRY:

Jag, it looks like your first post on CHR. Welcome.

When you stated that the "spark isn't very strong or consitent". I'm assuming you're pulling a plug and looking at the spark while you turn over the engine.... What type of ignition system do you have?

Dan J

I had the same problem with a 60 chevy 348. The engine was bored .040 and using new pistons I had my compression go from 9:5 to 11:5. After I shut it down it wouldn't start and I had to retard my timing for the engine to turn over. I don't know if this is your problem but I thought I just mention it.

I had a similar problem with a 350 Chevy a few years ago. Started right up when cold, no matter how cold, but wouldn't hit a lick when warm. It would spin over, but wouldn't fire. I would run the battery down trying to start it... Turned out to be a sloppy timing chain! I know you said this is a fresh engine, but maybe something has a defect or cam timing is off. Just a suggestion of something to look for...

Your problem could one of a number a things, but the first place I'd start is check all of your grounds.

thanks for the ideas, They are helpful. the grounds are all solid, I am pretty sure the timing is not a problem.

Dan J-yes I pull the plug and watch as I crank the motor.

I need to rephrase myself when I said the spark is weak. There is no spark 98% of the time. the 2% happens when I let go of the key then the motor does a half-ass pop.

over the winter i did not have the alternator grounded and a charger on...so there was constant drain on the battery.

I recently replaced the voltage regulator. .....I am now wondering if it could be the igntion coil????? Is this supposed to get hot(not hot enough to burn though) or should it stay cool

I have narrowed it down to being electrical and whatever it is, it does not want to start until it is cooled off.

It will start approx 60 minutes later the motor itself is still relatively warm.

ON a different note, how so I get this thing liscenced to drive on the streets, right now I am darting around the back roads. I don't have a title. Can or should I try to title it as Hobbiest? I guess I need a State trooper to inpspect it too?
---You guys are being a huge help, thank you:D :whacked: :CRY:

The igntion is electric. distributer...no points
Same ignition as it came in the '77 Econoline that I pulled the motor from. New parts though

Sounds to me that you are getting a vapour lock in the carb, thus, no fuel when hot. Just a guess.

Your electronic ignition module could also be breaking down when hot.

Now that I know you are using the Ford electronic system,simply replace the ignition module, the syptoms you describe in your last post where it starts when ya let the key off is a classic Ford ignition module problem, and a word to the wise get a name brand module as some of the cheaper ones do not have all of the factory circuits such as the spark retard for starting..

Thanks guys- So it sounds like the ignition module is the culprate! I hope they are not expensive.....time to throw some more money in the pit! Guy at checker auto parts told me it would cost $150 for a new one! ouch.

thanks again

I just checked with Napa and the Echlin #TP40 lists at 106.94 and my cost is 53.05... hell of a mark up huh

well, I bought new module...WELLS from auto zone 22 bucks and it did not solve my problem. Could my motor be running too hot? If I touch the manifold it is hot enough to burn, the oil is war, and the radiator is cold. the tubes coming from the water pumpo are very hot. Is my thermostat busted or am I just starting to halucinate?
It may be time for a weekend get away from my car!

I dont know if this applies(probably not) but a lot of GM 4-bangers used to cut out all spark when the CKP was busted. Apparently it seems that it diddnt register the engine turning at higher temps and it would go dead in about 10 minutes. I doubt it, but it may be something to look at.