Chrysler Ignition Setup Questions

Good morning gentleman. I'm wiring up my 40 and I'm trying to decide how to finish my ignition system. I currently have an electronic 2 wire distributor that is said to be stand alone and no ignition box is required for it to run. Most wire diagrams show an ignition module in the equation. I originally was going to run without one since the distributor would run without it. Now I'm contemplating using a gm hei ignition module. I don't want to run a msd 6al as I've had too many failures of them and they're not cheap. The chrysler modules seem pretty prone to failure as well. What are your thoughts?

Here is a schematic I found to run without a module.

Here is a diagram to install a GM HEI Module. This is the route I think I'm leaning towards.

Also, I have a MSD Blaster 2 coil and the instructions say not to use a ballast resistor for electronic ignition. I'm just confirming that will be good to go?

I am of the opinion that less is more. Why add complexity and components aka failure points, when the dizzy doesn’t need it to work?

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Originally Posted by 34_40

I am of the opinion that less is more. Why add complexity and components aka failure points, when the dizzy doesn’t need it to work?

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Very true. I just hope it doesn't actually need it to work. :LOL:

I'm in the same camp as Mike/34_40. What value does the GM HEI module add to the circuit? I'll be interested to see MikeP's comments. He's the Hemi Wizard!!

The only purpose for a ballast resistor is to keep the breaker points from arcing and burning up when in the "RUN" position by dropping the ignition voltage input to ~9 Volts, while allowing the full 12 Volts for "START". You don't want the reduced voltage with an electronic ignition.

Years ago I put a dual point Mallory in the 66 Mustang I gave my grandson. After awhile I grew tired of setting the points all the time so I put a Pertronix module and matching coil and never looked back. It's still in the car.
I had a 75 Duster with the electronic ignition and the only thing that gave me any problem was the ignition relay, I carried a spare.

Wow Ryan, not necessarily an easy question, especially when you consider what I think you’ll be using the car for….. I suspect it will include trips reasonably far away from home and tool box with the family riding with you.

I fully agree with you on the on reliability and cost on the MSD boxes, personally I’ve had reasonably good luck with the boxes (but have had one fail).

I’ve also personally had good luck with the with the Chrysler boxes, but have had to replace a few on customer cars. I suspect a LOT of good Chrysler ECUs have been changed due to a burned out ballast resistor, a bad ground or a loose connector in the plug. The problem with the plugs is that to remove or install it, a lot of people will wiggle the plug to get it on or off. This is basically a pin and socket type connection and wiggling the plug loosens the socket connections which can result in an interment connection that can be a real PIA to diagnose.

As far as adding a module to the distributor you have, I really don’t understand the purpose of it. If it can be run as is without adding a module it would seem to me that it already has a module of some kind already in it. Without seeing the manual/specifications on the distributor though I’m probably missing something.

The biggest problem I have with aftermarket distributors is that chances are if you have a failure, parts or a replacement may not be readily available. Depending on where you are and what the trip is for you might be down to either a day or 2 in a motel waiting on a mail order replacement or a long and expensive flat bed trip home.

Basically, I really don’t have any good recommendations for you. I can tell you how I handle it on my old cars. I have a complete (including cap and rotor) and tested spare distributor in the "just in case box" (for both the HEMI cars and I have a Mallory dual point converted to Pertronics for the SBC powered Ram 50).

In the case of the 57 Plymouth and the 68 Valiant I’m building, I have mounted an MSD box as the primary ignition system and a Chrysler ECU as back-up. Both are wired to separate plugs and either will plug into cars wiring harness (I usually unplug the MSD and test the Chrysler ECU prior to a long trip). Not the ideal situation but it’s pretty reassuring on those long desolate stretches of highway at 3AM in the morning.



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I decided to just wire it without an external module. I agree, I'm not sure how it would work with the internal one. The distributor came with no instructions as it came modified by the ebay seller I got it from. If money allows I want to upgrade to a msd pro billet unit. I didn't keep my original dizzy and now wish I would have.

I'd love to think I'll drive this crazy miles and on lots of trios but we'll have to see. With my work schedule, I'm not sure I'd drive it daily. It's not like my camaro where I can buy everything new for it out of a catalog and fix it easily if or when I smack a deer, raccoon, what ever. I've had so many close calls its made me really re think the 40. LOL

I decided to just wire it without an external module. I agree, I'm not sure how it would work with the internal one. The distributor came with no instructions as it came modified by the ebay seller I got it from. If money allows I want to upgrade to a msd pro billet unit. I didn't keep my original dizzy and now wish I would have.

I'd love to think I'll drive this crazy miles and on lots of trips, but we'll have to see. With my work schedule, I'm not sure I'd drive it daily. It's not like my camaro where I can buy everything new for it out of a catalog and fix it easily if or when I smack a deer, raccoon, what ever. I've had so many close calls its made me really re think the 40. LOL

Ryan, it has nothing to do with the ignition question, but I'd say the key to the '40 is having good insurance. A friend smacked a deer driving his pristine 2008 Porsche Boxter RS 60 Spyder, taking out a headlight, fender and internal damage. Luckily he insured with a collector car company ( Hagerty for him) and they didn't balk at the shop's $19,000 bill for repairs, all factory original parts. About 5 years ago he hit a raccoon with the same car and it took out stuff under the car with a bill from the Porsche dealer for over $4,000. If you hit a deer/raccoon with the '40 take it to the best hot rod shop you can find and have them fix it, IF you have good insurance....

I've got insurance. I haven't filed a claim yet to find out if it's good or not. I get what you're saying though.

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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

I've got insurance. I haven't filed a claim yet to find out if it's good or not. I get what you're saying though.

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Yep, the key to insurance is how they handle their claims. I've "wasted" a bunch of $$$ on Hagerty in the past 15 years having never filed a claim.

On your MSD 6AL experiences, I expect, and it's just my opinion that the failures you experienced were likely counterfeit units from China. The market got flooded with them to the end that MSD analyzed failed units and published How to Tell If Your MSD 6AL is Real - things like the order of the wires on the unit, cheap aftermarket crimp connectors, etc, etc. Again my opinion, but if you buy from a reputable source I think the MSD boxes are as reliable as OEM.