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I have a 47 Ford coupe I'm using the stock solid front axle, but I put in the GM power steering box using the Speedway adapter bracket. and a 79 Econoline steering column. My issue is that now the steering column with this setup is significantly further down, and to the right. Has anyone had this experience with this setup?
I'm on a tight budget and would rather modify parts that I have already. I'll get some pics later.
The pictures would be a big help to see what you're working with.
Chances are the fix could be fairly simple depending on your skills and equipment.
Shortening or lengthening a steering column is not a complicated procedure but some welding is usually required. From what you're describing possibly shortening the column and building an intermediate shaft between the column and box using appropriate steering joints may be the solution.
It's usually best to have the engine and drivers side exhaust in the car when you do this to insure you have adequate clearance when you're done.
By the way welcome.
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You can see in the pics how much lower into the toe board that the steering column. Every other setup that I've seen has it so that the brake pedal goes under the column.
I never did anything with a steering column before being a shift column not sure how easy that's it's gonna be.
Also how much travel should I have with the brake pedal, the pedal and the M/C are from a late 90s Ranger.
I don't know if I'm being fussy with the way that I have things laid out I just want it to be safe and correct.
I emailed Borgeson last night and he said I can use a double U-Joint in there
The main thing on the column, especially a non-tilt version like the Econoline unit is that it puts the steering wheel in a comfortable position when sitting in the drivers seat.
The way I would start (others may have different opinions) is to disconnect the column from the steering gear. As long as you’re that far, put the front end on stands and once the drag-link, tie rods and spindles are installed, just run the steering stop to stop to insure there is no binding or interference. It would be a shame to get the column and everything hooked up only to find the steering gear needs to be slightly moved and you have to start over.
With that done put a seat in it, preferably the one you’re going to use but if you’re still deciding on a seat you’re going to use, place a bucket, crate etc at the height and distance from the dash that the real seat will be sitting at.
It looks like you’re going to have an interference issue with the swing peddle for the brakes so for now I would just remove the peddle to get it out of the way (I’ll cover that later).
It’s hard to tell, but if the dash is out of the car you’ll want to temporarily want to reinstall it. Put a steering wheel on the column (again preferably the one you’re going to use, as the diameter of the wheel will make a difference as to what is comfortable).
Having a friend handy may help in this part. Sitting on the “seat” move the column to a position where the steering wheel is comfortable and centered. On the original setup there should have been an upper column support. Basically a U shaped bracket that secures the upper end of the column to the dash. If that happens to fit around the Econoline column (and you have it) secure the upper end of the column. If not figure a way to temporarily hold the upper end of the column in place. When you get to the point where you are doing the final install places like speedway have steering column drops to connect the column to the bottom of the dash.
At this point I suspect that you will find that the distance between the bottom end of the column is up and away from the steering gear. It would probably be ideal if you had about a 12” distance (minimum). If you don’t have at least 12” you may want to shorten the column. It’s a pretty simple procedure here’s a pretty good write up.
https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/st...te-up.1093090/
Once you are happy with the column location I would weld a couple of “L” brackets to the bottom of the column to secure it to the toe board.
To connect the column to the steering gear to column build an intermediate shaft using a steering U Joint (available thru places like Speedway, Summit etc) on each end. This should take care of any misalignment between the column and gear.
Once that is done, see where the brake peddle sits. If it interferes (and from the looks of it, it probably will) you will probably need to build one that clears the column.
Personally, I would probably run it on the other side of the column, offset or bent as necessary to clear. There are different brake pedal pads available some of which are offset to put the peddle in the most comfortable position.
Anyway hope this isn’t too confusing.
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-That's the dash at the top of the pic.
-The column is mounted with a homemade drop
-The seats that I'm using are in place.
-Here's another pic from when I had a Bronco column in to give you an idea about how close everything is. I wonder if I could get a double U-joint in there if that would be enough to center everything?
Could you post a picture of the from a little further back of the dash and steering wheel to give a better perspective of where the column is in relation to the dash.
From the picture you’ve posted it appears that the whole column is just way too low, but that may be the way the picture is taken.
I applaud you for trying to use a factory steering column instead of just dragging out the credit card. As members who have been here a while will attest I generally also tend to repurpose a lot of factory parts for my builds. The issue with steering columns is that generally on a build like this finding one the exact right length can be a little hard ( the reason I started modifying my own……..ok that and being a cheap SOB).
On the original steering it was a straight shot from the steering wheel to the input of the steering gear. From the pictures you’ve posted the input on the new gear is at a different angle, but you are trying to keep the straight shot on the steering column, resulting in the whole column being way too low or am I missing something? I’m also a little confused as to whether you are going to be using a floor or column shifter.
OK the new steering gear is where it is and to keep the correct geometry that’s not going to move. If I’m correct the whole “new” column is located too low when you try to keep the straight angle (or as much as possible) from the steering shaft to the steering gear. I go back to you needing to locate the steering column in the correct position to place the steering wheel in a comfortable position and angle.
The way I would proceed is as follows (and please keep in mind this is based on just looking at a couple of pictures…..actually seeing the car and steering might cause me to rethink what follows).
Once you have the column placement figured out, I would determine where the column would have to exit the firewall and mark it prior to making any cuts on the firewall. I would then move to the engine side of the firewall and see if you could get by with a short intermediate shaft with a single joint on one end and a double joint on the other end and see if it will turn without binding. I would plan on the length of the column being just long enough for the end of the shaft to stick thru the firewall to maximize the amount of room you have to play with between the column and gear.
On a side note I have found that using a section of wood dowel rod the appropriate diameter makes a good mockup shaft for laying out the steering and joints.
If the angle is just too sharp for the shaft to turn without binding this might be an option.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steer...nish,6254.html
Yes I know it’s an expensive option (although I believe I have seen them cheaper if you look around).
Anyway, just my 2 cents.
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The plan is to have a column shift. I have the column drop about 4" from the dash, and probably about the same distance from the original floor exit. If I could get a double U-joint in there I think that would really open up some room under the column.
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