Just look for ideas

[Tann3r.ma]

So I’m building a sbc 350 4bolt main for a mild flat top build with a little bit of compression for a little build to drop in something and handle a little nitrous but just drive and have fun but I have zero idea of what parts to buy would love to hear what I should do

[glennsexton]

Welcome to CHR:

Could you be a little more specific about what you have in mind?

What kind of car will is this build for?

What transmission do/will you have?

What rear end do/will you have?

What is your budget?

What is your building experience so far?

Regards,
Glenn

[firebird77clone]

I get the impression that it will be mostly a cruiser with the occasional nitrous boost. That's a bit of a tall order, you'll have to accept some trade offs in performance in both aspects.

[Dave Severson]

Nitrous does not like a lot of compression or timing! Lots of parameters come into effect on a nitrous build, steel crank and good rods are just two of them! As Glenn mentioned, there are lots of questions you're going to have to ask yourself and answer honestly before you get too serious about even ordering parts! Along with Glenn's question, you'll have to define a little nitrous, for some that means a 75 hp shot, for others it means a multi-stage that requires both a nitrous and timing controller! As the old saying goes, Plan your work, work your plan! Nitrous is fun to have, but when not installed with the proper safeguards it can very easily cost you your new engine!

[glennsexton]

Not a big fan of nitrous myself but know a lot of people like that instantaneous boost in HP it provides. It is my observation that most people who use nitrous are hard on their cars in general. I've heard more than a few transmission and rear explosions (or real bad rod knocks!) just after catching a whiff of the gas.

Anything other than a 50-75HP occasional squirt demands a well engineered total rebuild. As mentioned, steel crank ($750-$1,000) and extra strength rods ($300-4500) are the minimum. High quality, low compression pistons are better. Nitrous is is approximately 50-percent richer in oxygen than air and as it squirts into the combustion chamber a whole lot of oxygen goes with it. That additional oxygen requires additional fuel or you will end up with a cutting torch effect and melt the pistons. Allow $750 as a minimum for pistons. And the list goes on...

Glenn

[firebird77clone]

Also need to decide on a cam. A nitrous grind will give peak performance when you push the button, at the expense of your every day drive, or choose a cam which better daily driver performance. Either way, the entire build must must facilitate the juice or catastrophic failure will result.

[Dave Severson]

Not a big fan of nitrous myself but know a lot of people like that instantaneous boost in HP it provides. It is my observation that most people who use nitrous are hard on their cars in general. I've heard more than a few transmission and rear explosions (or real bad rod knocks!) just after catching a whiff of the gas.
Glenn

My first nitrous experience was a sensible 75 horse spray bar, the second was a direct port with a 2 stage controller. It cost me a $1200 Lunati crank, $1000 Carillo rods, $800 Mahle pistons, a well aerated block, 3 piece camshaft, and a lot of broken bits and pieces that were once a valve train.

[glennsexton]

My first nitrous experience was a sensible 75 horse spray bar, the second was a direct port with a 2 stage controller. It cost me a $1200 Lunati crank, $1000 Carillo rods, $800 Mahle pistons, a well aerated block, 3 piece camshaft, and a lot of broken bits and pieces that were once a valve train.

Well there you have it....