Yup, what Seth said, you'll need residual valves on both the front and rear, a proportioning valve in the rear lines is always a good way to tune your brake pressure for even braking. Also, make sure your master cylinder is built for disc/drum or disc/disc applications depending on which yours is. I cheat and use a brake pressure gauge after the bleeding and leak checking is all done, usually shooting for about 20% higher brake pressure on the front, then I use the big parking lot at the college for a final brake check and tweaking the proportioning valve. If you don't have a college parking lot to "borrow" on a Sunday morning I'm sure any good lightly traveled black top would work!