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I've driven a 1934 ford pickup for 20 years and 50,000 miles. I'm tearing it down this winter to rebuilt/refresh everything. This time I want to lengthen the wheelbase 4 or 5 inches. I'm thinking the chassis should be lengthened between the motor mounts and the front cross member. Any ideas about lengthening a frame and slick things to build into the suspensions would be appreciated.
gwoods
I have a '34 chassis that was built 6" longer for a blown Hemi car I am building, I had it lengthened 6" between the firewall and the front crossmember, Pete & Jakes has their hemi coupe on the showroom floor with the same modification, I had my frame built by HHR hotrods in Mount Vernon MO, they do P&J, Alloway, Speedway and started doing So Cals and many others. I debated about doing the mods myself on a repro frame but the blown 392 going in (HEAVY) and exposed frame rails made me want to have one made without the splice as the frame rails in this area are tapered and extending the taper (looking from the side) on exposed rails could have looked strange, Chad did a awesome job and tapered the rails from firewall to crossmember correctly, making it almost impossible to see even when your looking for it If your rails are not exposed hiboy style it would not be a problem really, a gusset plate plug welded before the boxing plates are added on the seam was what I was going for. Best of luck Matt
This would be the time staying up late and studing different front suspension types could make a differance-----
If you have solid beam axle and want to stay with that I'd suggest adding to frame around the back side of firewall so the suspension/steering stays intack as you have it.
If you want to change to ifs----------decide if you want coil springs (M2) coil over(also M2) or torsion bars--------
If you want to lengthen it just to gain room around front of engine----then -----
Wescott Auto has excellent frame deminsion drawings available in there cataloque and online----
Denny, how close are the 34s compared to the 35-40s?
thats the Wescott demnishens I was referring to-----those drawings are something every one should download and print---------or just get one of there cataloques
I can tell there's been responses to the post I made; I'm trying to learn how to converse within the forum. I can't seem to even upload of photo of the pickup. Sorry if I'm confusing everyone; I do appreciate the advise.
If you are linking to another location for your picture, you'll need to wait for a Moderator approval before it appears.
It's all about protection from spammers and such. Don't be offended, as once "we" get to know you better and know that you aren't here for dubious reasons then you'll be free to post the pictures as you'd like.
These just in from GW.. hope it helps 'cause it's a GREAT looker!
Welcome gwood from a fellow Idahoan.:cool: Is that a fresh pic or is that how it looked 20 years ago?
Jack.
Leaf springs, big wide tires, traction bars--------------
now whats on the front??????????? Looks like coil overs--whats the spring rate and where do you have the shock valving set??
Mustang 2 up front, that should be the easy one.
Leaf springs in the rear, takes a lot more to tailor the fit.
If you could get a corner weight data from say a dirt track racer would help to figure rates------
And with empty pick up box those big tires are gonna bounce you around---I would suggest you seriously look at maybe putting in a triangulated 4 bar rear suspension with coil over shocks that are fully adjustable for compression and rebound-------- And spring rates are quite a process to figure out rates so plan on changing them more than once--------
As for lengthening thw wheel base -I've got 4 33/4 fords under construction in the shop and I looked at the very front end to see any possibilities---in front of the crossmember for the frong spring there is about 4 inches of straight wall that you could move front wheel base that distance but would have minor radiator mount issues-----will need new lower mounts but may alteration------