".......I would get a slight bang sound when the flexplate flexed toward the trans and torque converter moved back a tad....."

I suspect you found your problem, which is likely a cracked flex plate.

On the bright side the transmission does not necessarily have to come all the way out. Most times you can do the following and save some time and aggravation.

Support the transmission and remove the drive shaft and cross member. Lower the transmission slightly and support the rear of the engine (make sure you don't squash the distributor cap into the fire wall). Use a floor jack with a piece of plywood or metal plate and support the transmission.

Take off the convertor nuts/bolts.

Remove the lower bolt on each side of the transmission and replace with long bolts (with them screwed in you should have 3-5 inches of length sticking out) if you can't find bolts long enough, use pieces of threaded stock with nuts on the ends. Remove the rest of the transmission bolts.

With the jack supporting the transmission roll it back and slide the transmission back far enough that you can get a long slim wrench in to loosen/remove the flex plate bolts. Make sure the convertor remains seated in the transmission.

There should be enough slack in the speedometer cable, cooler lines and vacuum modulator lines they won't need to be disconnected, but if necessary remove them.

When you install the new flexplate it will have to be properly indexed for all the bolts to start, so make sure you start them all before you start tightening them.

The long bolts you have installed will have kept the transmission properly aligned, so when the new flex plate is installed the transmission will just slide forward and you can reinstall everything (if the convertor uses studs make sure they are lined up with the flex plate holes as you slide it forward).



Hope this helps.




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