Thread: 1947 Studebaker Truck w/Chevy 350 No Spark

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Use your 4" hand grinder to grind down to bare metal at 3 locations that are close to each other under the hood, 1.any metal part on the motor, 2.the frame and 3.the firewall (just above where the passenger's feet would be). Use 2 ground straps (#2 welding cable or bigger) that are long enough to work. Bolt one end of one cable to the firewall with a through bolt and nut. Get inside the cab and hold the head of the bolt while your partner fastens the nut on the engine side of the firewall. The other end of that cable will be bolted to the frame rail in the same manner, together with the end of the second cable. Run the other end of the second cable to any metal part on the motor that could pass current to the engine block or cylinder heads. Make sure there is not paint or corrosion at the point where you will attach the end of the second cable. Secure the second cable end with bolt and nut (I like using star washers because they dig in). Now you have the body grounded to the the frame and the motor, the frame grounded to the motor and the body and the motor grounded to the frame and the body. Use RTV silicone to seal the connections so that moisture cannot rust them. Now that you have good grounding throughout the vehicle, go ahead with your testing.

Good grounds are the most missed components on any engine swap. NTFDAY will be along in a minute to orchestrate that for you.

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