Printable View
1965 327 ran fine for 20 years; started it a month ago; ran like crap. Changed: electronic ignition, rotor, cap, plugs, coil, fuel filter, fuel sock in tank. Checked: timing, ballast resistor, fuel pressure, primary and secondary fuel flow. Still runs like crap. I am confused!!! Help appreciated.:confused:
If it sat for any length of time there's a good possibilty that you'll be rebuilding the carb. Did you blow out the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump?
Have you completed a compression check?
What's the vacuum reading at idle? Is it steady or bouncing?
Bad fuel maybe
Going along with Ken's post, if it sat idle for any length of time it's likely that all of the rubber components in the tank, at the fuel pump, and even in the carb have started to fall apart. This situation is brought to you by the American Coalition for Ethanol and the Renewable Fuels Association, along with the EPA.
doesn't sit much at all in the summer. Drove it two weeks before "event" occurred.Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
Thanks for the input.
Checking compression this afternoon. Vacumm seems steady and normal.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Thanks for the input.
Ethanol is creating fuel problems in vehicles that don't see much road time and when everything is said and done I'll be quite surprised if that is not part or all of your problem.
Compression test shows 95 to 110 in all 8 cylinders; not very good for a 10.5 piston motor.
Since they were all within 10% of each other, the problem would not seem to be piston/ring failure.
That lead to the carb; there is a problem with lack of sufficient air flow. Carb and intake coming off next.
Vacuum steady so no issue there.
thanks again.
Just a wild guess as I had the same problem with a 327. Are the plug wires on the right plugs?
Checked that early on; been there myself!!
Engine not getting enough air; fuel mixture screws don't seem to have any effect on one side.
Carb is off; haven't opened it yet; waiting for rebuild kit.
Thanks.
I'd say that a carb kit is going to be the answer, provided you clean it out totally. Back in the day I boiled out several carbs, after an old crusty mechanic explained it to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by corv65
One word says it all: ETHANOL:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
My vote is ethanol, try 6 weeks is all your gas will be good if you are using a carb, all the while its eating the rubber like Roger said. The reason you efi car can go longer is the engine is adjusting the mixture sensed by the O2 sensor compensating for our crappy fuel we buy. If your buying from a station with above ground tanks 6 weeks is a over estimate as the heat breaks it down even quicker, I talked with a expert on this, he is a car collector and owned a oil company, makes a product to use on ethanol fuel in older cars and still said "Buy ethanol free" here you go, after the carb rebuild Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
Using a hot rod cam that closes the intake valve very late in the cycle will contribute to low cylinder pressures. Please read this tutorial that I wrote several years ago.....Quote:
Originally Posted by corv65
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility
.
If it were mine, I'd be focused on getting the carb cleaned up, and at the same time blowing back the line to the tank, and adding a new fuel filter. You've got cylinder pressures within 10% of one another on an engine that's been running good for 20+ years, which suddenly turned crappy. I would put a kit in the carb, paying close attention to blowing passages clear after your cleaning process. Once that's done you can decide if you want to chase a possible low compression issue. Just my opinion, and everyone's got one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by corv65
66 289 in a 66 Mustang ran as a daily driver until the late 90's. Ran what was called "gasahol" in the late 80's for a couple of years then back to regular gas. Ran fine until one night in about 98 coming home from work. Died on the interstate off ramp, restated but wouldn't stay running and smelled strongly of fuel. The front bowl of the 650 double pumper was spewing raw fuel all over the place. Got it off on the side of the road and pulled off the carb, always carried a decent loaded tool box in the trunk. The remains of the rubber "O" ring that seals the needle and seat assembly was in the bottom of the bowl, replaced it and headed home. About a week later the rear bowl did the same thing in the parking lot at work.
So you do what you want, but if you've been running regular gas with ethanol you've GOT crud in the fuel system, been there, done that.
I'd agree with the possibility of a bad tank of gas except for the comment that the idle air adjuster does nothing on one side. Any time I had one that didn't show a lean fall off choking down, and a rich fall off increasing it indicated a cruddy carb. Ethanol has only made the situation worse.
Hope you'll come back and close the loop on what you find, and how you get it movin' down the road again.
"Changed electronic ignition, ballast resistor" most HEI or electronic ignitions require a full 12 volts if you are running it through a ballast resistor you do not have 12 volts and it would run like crap.
Also----was his carb throttle plates open wide or closed during the compression tests???
And why does anyone not do the oil thingie when getting a low reading on compression guage??????? leak down test would then be appropriate