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Whats your thoughts on this method of securing a car to a trailer. 2 Inch strap can also be a 3". Two 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts hold the front stop to the deck. This is for the front wheels only. I don't want any chains/straps on the suspension or frame.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps267xoma3.jpg
If you cross your straps in the back to eliminate side to side movement I think you're golden,
why not buy the proper tool?Attachment 65967Attachment 65968
You are on the right track (pun intended), but you need something more substantial than what you are showing, as any emergency stops will rip the one or two bolts out holding your contraption to the trailer.
Do a google search on "E TRACK" and make sure when you buy it, that you bolt it through the trailer to the manufacturers specifications.
Over the tire straps will not be an issue, and with that set up you will not need to worry about crossing straps in the rear.
Bill S.
Grade 8 1/2" bolts X8 ea are pretty stout, just might keep things in place in an emergency stop. But I'm picturing the back of the car flying up off the trailer, it wouldn't be good.
While I think that the Tire Tie Downs are kinda cool, I don't like a Vehicle "dancing" around on the Trailer-in my book it's unstable, plus the suspension is always working-
I have a 4 sets of these, and they are designed to go through the holes manufactured into the Frame (for various Makes of Cars/Trucks)-they positively lock into the Frame (and, sometimes they are a bit of a booger to get out)-but I have never worried about the car coming undone-:eek:
I am with rspears-I work in the Heavy Equipment business, and we truck a lot-cross-chaining is a must, and we regularly use #9 wire on the Tie down Booms so they don't "snap-back", along with good chain (min 3/8")-
On Hot Rods, I like to use cushioned Tie down straps (like in the other picture) that are rated to handle twice the load of what I'm hauling (cross-strapped of course)-the more straps the merrier-:cool:-I don't like the way this Jeep is tied down (through the springs(at least it's cross-strapped, but :(-I like to tie to the Frame)
I use a made to length strap that I use over the front frame member and in a V to two floor mounts -this lets me winch the car to the same area every time amnd I hook it up-let off the tension from winch and go to the rear where I use 2 padded short straps , one over axle housing on each side of pumpkin, hooked into a ratchet strap angled out a bit to tie downs pretty much located about 4 feet apart and relatively about rear bumper so I can easily reach , tighten or adjust-these two rear straps are super important to hold vehicle during stops with the truck/trailer------front is restrained with the v strap plus a barely slack winch cable-
I also on race car ( Pro Stock ) snub/restrain the rear from bouncing on trips where I know the ride might be ruff-----( at one race years ago, the rear shocks were hot on a friends car at arrival at the track -didn't qualify well!!)
It is important to look at several factors when towing , and many peeps ignore or are just stupid/ignorant about the load balance on the trailer so as not to effect the drivability of the tow rig, and/or create a load unbalance that results in the tow rig plus trailer shock/spring causing severe bounce/ wobble( talk abut need for cross strap?) with the being hauled DIAMOND on a rig just barely acceptable for a piece of COAL. Also don't forget to consider the side aero impact of meeting/passing/being passed by a Big Rig / Bus
PLUS-----That picture of Navy's wheel/trailer tie down strap mounting-----
I ain't getting into sin, co sin , tangents----------------- But----the forward inertia of a stop will cause the car to try to roll forward-up that angled stop piece, which will multiply many times force against the strap tension strength and/or the hold down mount of the trailer-The total force possible can also be multiplied by the G forces of the stop--------imagine an 3 g+ sudden stop-----
These tie down straps need to be at a lessor angle .
I've tied down many a vehicle in a ship's hold and I guarantee you that if not done right the s..t will hit the fan. The Navy would load and unload, but it was our job, vehicle drivers, to tie them down in the cargo hold.
Add into the mix an bouncing stop as in sudden stop while maneuvering to miss an accident with off road curb jumping--------
I would be putting straps on the rear, I was just referring to the front, my poor communication again. Well I guess I'll go back to the drawing board by the sound of the inputs, thanks guys.
This is the proper E-Track style of tie down. This is used by all of the major enclosed carriers (Intercity, Horseless Carriage, Reliable, etc)
This is what I used in all of my enclosed trailers for years without an issue. When the E track is through bolted as recommended by the manufacturer (I actually used every 6th bolt hole), the forces in a panic stop will not be a factor, as the car will not move from where it is properly tied down. I tested that theory at 70mph headed south on RT91 where it intersected RT95 when a clueless driver decided that the bird in the road was more important to save than the cars behind her and stopped dead with little notice. I changed my shorts afterwards, but did not have any issues with the 80K car sitting in the back of my trailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...M58523_644.jpg
I used straps and axle straps for years and never had a problem...as stated earlier, cross your straps to eliminate any movement. Yours look fine!
The e track system works for those carriers as they want quickness, universatility?, one type fits all---------
If you are going to outfit YOUR trailer to haul YOUR car, be specific and the best you can do--If you are looking for easy loading and unloading, use a set of hold down straps that are for THAT specific trailer and vehicle--------that way you aren't doing a lot of resetting lengths, etc at every loading. keep fronts at front and rears at rear, right right, left left.
Use a remote control winch for loading-no driving on and killing the clutch, getting headers/exhaust hot, etc, etc.
Straps in rear don't need to be crossed but do need to be at an angle--------
Sometimes you need to snub the car down to eliminate suspension bounce------
Locate on trailer to balance loading-set straps to spot car same place each/every time
Use the padded axle straps and no damage to painted undercarrieage
Airplane loading did seem simpler than race cars-------
Typed a response early this morning, but lost connectivity on posting and it was gone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy7797
If you look at the picture of your strap details compared to the E-Track the force restraints are very nearly identical, as is the over the tire strapping. The E-Track system is universal, while yours will be positioned for your truck, located for trailer balance & tongue weight. As long as your 1/2" bolts are going through steel secured to the trailer frame, and you have sufficient load spreading for your fasteners to prevent them pulling through the plate I believe that your approach is just fine. Just my $0.02 without crunching numbers.
Regarding suspension bounce, the only concern there is the potential of suspension wear on the trailered vehicle, and perhaps some resonance if you happen to hit a stretch where the expansion joints are spaced just right to create trailer bounce. Even then, it's not an issue that you can't address with a speed adjustment. If you cross strap (or angle strap) the rear, frame to trailer, and cinch it down compressing the suspension the bounce will be all but eliminated anyway. Again, my $0.02 and you can take it or leave it. Personally I wouldn't change a thing.
Thanks for your inputs guys ! Here's what I'm going to do. Because this is a dedicated trailer for my truck, I'm changing the angle of the stop plate and going to 3/4 inch grade 8 bolts that bolt down through the 5" c-channel frame. Looking at the e-track pictures I don't see much difference except my stops in the front which I'm changing the angle to be less of a ramp. I'll post new pictures after the redo and will look forward to more input.
http://i990.photobucket.com/albums/a...psnzggt385.jpg
Hows the balance when hooked up? Set nice and level? WHAT DO YOU USE FOR BRAKES? eLECTRIC? Surge? one axle or two? I have a triple axle featherlite with electric brakes on all 6 wheels-I believe that I should be able to stop combined rig better than truck alone. Will you be using a winch for load/unloading?
[QUOTE=Navy7797;558307]Thanks for your inputs guys ! Here's what I'm going to do. Because this is a dedicated trailer for my truck, I'm changing the angle of the stop plate and going to 3/4 inch grade 8 bolts that bolt down through the 5" c-channel frame. Looking at the e-track pictures I don't see much difference except my stops in the front which I'm changing the angle to be less of a ramp. I'll post new pictures after the redo and will look forward to more input.
An excellent idea.
Some fella in Auckland (NZ) was loading a car on to his trailer just the other day, with the trailer on a slight nose-down grade.
As the car came onto the deck it overran the winch, and by the time it reached the front of the trailer it had gained enough momentum to go straight over the stops too.
He got crushed between the car he was loading and the back end of his tow vehicle.
He didn't survive.
The difference in the E track is that the track is bolted down (every 8 inches in the case of my last enclosed trailer) over the course of 6 feet, spreading the load, and increasing the force needed to rip it out of the floor (times 4 six foot sections). True, I have (had) multiple cars, along with millions of dollars of other peoples vehicles in the trailer, so rebalancing the trailer needed to be accomplished for those different vehicles. But when you towed as much as I did (racing, sometimes coast to coast), it became old hat.
While you are using the trailer for one dedicated vehicle, you still need to take the stresses of a panic stop into account. What I'm seeing with your set up, clearly does not allow for such forces, so you are doing yourself a disservice by not expanding your mounting pad front/rear, and side to side. Same goes for the lack of gussets for your stops. Won't even get into the tie downs yet (10,000lb minimum), as we have yet to see that in your pictures.
Bill S.
You'd be surprised how often your"dedicated" trailer would find an alternate use, if your tie down system is flexible.
A buddy of mine has an enclosed trailer with the etrack system on floor and walls, it's the cat's meow for anything from boxes to bikes.
Anyway, it sounds like most everyone is trying to help you prepare for the worst case scenario: just looking out for your best interest.
I don't know the cost of the etrack system, and although I am certain your method will be cheaper, I am equally certain you would not have buyer's remorse.
Good luck.
Well while I'm having my first cup of coffee for the day-------and I did mention earlier about air loads from passing semi trucks--------on an open trailer, don't forget( and I know that from your aircraft work) about the drag from the air around the car at speed-The tiedowns will have to hold the car against that load also.
Just yesterday I was over at a premium level type collector car place and a guy brought in a late model Corvette --------He had a Caddy Escalaid? for a tow vehicle, a box trailer (more like maybe a landscaper/carpender than a vehicle trailer) wood floors, horrible conglomeration of a ramp door-----Front of Caddie up about 10 inches, rear squashed down til the hitch almost drug the ground (even after unloading-probably had 1000 lbs stuff in nose of box) and brakes only on one axle but no apparent wiring or surge system to operate them
And I won't even get started ( until after 2 or 3rd cup) about the guys who'll load a car backwards.
