Very nice work! Thanks a lot for the step by step illustration.
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Very nice work! Thanks a lot for the step by step illustration.
Quote
This revealed more defects that the last shop saw as fixes, but they won't leave my shop like that....
Rather than butt weld in the proper thickness metal, a piece of about 16 gauge is slipped behind the rust hole area (from dirt accumulating between brace and hood skin) and MIG welded around the perimeter. I think we can improve on that..
And we wouldn't expect anything less! :eek: As always, thanks for taking us all along for the ride. A learning experience to be sure.
( Oh, Cosmo says he's cold on the floor! :LOL::LOL: )
Had to include Cosmo.. :LOL:
The TIG is used to fully weld the patches in place...
Front side:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6608.JPG
Back side, full penetration on the weld..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6606.JPG
The weld seams are then planished and dressed. Next, the front of the hood had a stress crack adjacent to one of the rubber bumpers. To stabilize the hood prior to cutting out this area, the brace is clamped back in place..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6616.JPG
The damaged area is cut out, a "doubler" had been used toward the front to add strength to the area, so care is used to not cut that off..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6613.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6614.JPG
A replacement patch is cut out, bends added, and tacked in place. A plug weld ties this in with the doubler..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6623.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6625.JPG
All trimmed and welds dressed, the hood bumper hole is re-drilled in the new patch. Then we notice a bit of filler closer to the nose of the hood (arrow). Let's remove that while we're here to see what carnage lies in wait.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6627.JPG
Gotta love this game of dominos..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6632.JPG
The low area needs to be bumped up, and with little room for swinging hammers, a new tool is in order. Using the South Bend "milling machine" a die is made for the outer portion..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6628.JPG
Using a pair of C-clamp vise grips (there goes another pair) the die we made will be welded to one side, the opposite is giving a bit of a trim to better fit in the confines of the slight gap available on the inside..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6633.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6634.JPG
I missed the action shots, but the clamping of the vise grip is used to raise the low areas. Then dressed out for a much better "filler free" lower edge for the hood.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6637.JPG
With Mike having completed the dies to duplicate the ribs in the hood brace we did a test run on a piece of 16 Ga cold rolled steel. First upper die addresses middle rib only, way to much drawing going on to expect this out of one set of dies...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6638.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6640.JPG
Then top die is changed out for the remainder of the ribs...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6643.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6641.JPG
A bit of fine tuning needed, but looks like this process will work to repair the rot in the bottom of the brace ends..
Cosmo and I say... what else? but WOW!
Love the S.B. Miller. I've done that one myself on a Clausing.
I'm impressed , very smart machine work !
This line keeps popping into my head when I'm reading one of your threads... "But wait, there's MORE!" LOL :eek::LOL::LOL::eek:
But wait, there's more!! :LOL:
Now to fine tune our dies for the hood brace. Looking at our original profile template, the first upsweep (red arrow) and second upsweep (yellow arrow) are both nearly vertical as compared to the opposite side.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag.../IMG_6578a.jpg
Our first test run shows the first upsweep spread too wide, not enough vertical...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6642.JPG
Looking at the die that was made, a bit too much material was removed such that this vertical feature was lost...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6643.JPG
So a new die was made for the top, this time out of aluminum. The phenolic is somewhat easy to cut out but does have challenges in making crisp bend details, so lets see if the aluminum helps out..
Next run, this time we'll do two panels in case they work... First pass to draw the metal into the center rib...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6659.JPG
This is about 8 passes, each progressively deeper. The circle fixture to the right in the picture (white base) is used as a back stop to keep our rib centered.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6660.JPG
This is about 9/16 of depth, so quite a bit of draw.. Next, the new top die is added and goes through the same 8 progressive passes.. Note in the next picture the vertical upsweeps are both nearly vertical. Success!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6670.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6662.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6672.JPG
Matching up to the original, this looks like the right replacement.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6663.JPG
video version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQgVST8TYgE
.
Progress on the hood, the bead details in the brace are offset on the ends to match the hood opening flange. So we use a Vernier protractor to find the angle, and transfer that to our panel. This is where the transition of the taper starts..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6674.JPG
Once tapered, the excess is removed from the bottom side and the outer seams TIG welded in place.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6685.JPG
A piece of round stock has a radius added to serve as a hammer form for the beads. They are hammered around and excess removed from the back side..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6688.JPG
A piece of 16 gauge cold rolled steel is trimmed to fit and TIG welded in place.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6691.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6693.JPG
Welds dressed and media blasted..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6696.JPG
The bend line is transposed from the original. As this bend is slightly convex, it was started using a tipping wheel on the bead roller to a 45* angle, and then finished on the mag brake.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6706.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6708.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6709.JPG
A reminder of the carnage we are repairing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDZyTTuUGVE
A profile template is made prior to cutting out the old....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6713.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6714.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6717.JPG
Time to get the hood brace end welded in place. The overall measurement had been taken prior to cutting off the old one, down to the 14 gauge outer plate as a reference. So the new end is trimmed to match this dimension, then held in place with rare earth magnets. The center (inside) rib is aligned and tacked using the TIG....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6726.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6727.JPG
Working outward, the panel surfaces are aligned and tacked as we go. Note the "batwings" left on the outside of the new brace end (yellow arrows). This will act as a heat sink when we make the outer tacks. Had these been trimmed to match prior to welding, the edge will have a tendency to burn back from the heat.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6729.JPG
The entire seam is TIG welded and then our batwings are trimmed using offset snips, then welds dressed..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6732.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6734.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6735.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6736.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6738.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6739.JPG
One down......
What is the media you use to blast your welds so clean?
Prior to welding I used 80 grit garnet to clean the green paint away from the seam. After welding the weld seams were dressed with a 80 grit roloc disc, then 80 grit on DA
A lot of meticulas work here very nice job
You guys are a rare breed, doing restoration and refab making it look easy
Then you should look at my blogs, they make it look hard.
Thanks for the comments and following along with our progress!
Starting on the other end of the hood brace, this one not as rotted as the other but has issues just the same. One of those "while we're here" things....
The ribs are trimmed and ends rounded.. A piece of flat 16 gauge is trimmed to fit..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6743.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6744.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6745.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6746.JPG
tacked together....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6747.JPG
….then the photographer went on strike until we got to this...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6748.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6749.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...8/IMG_6750.JPG
We'll get this trimmed and installed tomorrow..
More progress on the hood, here is the other end of the hood brace.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6813.JPG
Looking at the back side, you can see where a few holes were welded closed the last time it was painted, and the severe pitting and new holes that we have. A testament to the fact that what shows is always the tip of the iceberg. Although better than the passenger side, this is definitely one of those "while we are here" things. Do it right, do it once. (grinder marks were mine)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6816.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6815.JPG
With our new replacement all one piece, the next step is to bend the flange that spot welds to the hood skin. A tipping wheel in the Fasti-werks bead roller makes quick work of it. The bend line was transposed from the original and an initial pass under the tipping die marks the crease line a bit better, Then successive passes are made, lifting slightly with each pass. This is done until the beads interfere with the tipping die.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6809.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6810.JPG
Then the partial bent flange is clamped in the magnetic brake for the remainder of the fold. This brake allows us to use a die on either side of the bead details, where a full die may inadvertently push in on the beads.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6817.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6819.JPG
End gets cut to length and marked for initial trimming
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6823.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6824.JPG
Looks like we may have enough bead stock left for another couple of ends.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6821.JPG
That's where we left off yesterday, we'll see about welding the new end on today..
.
Our last end for the hood brace. Off with the old.....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6834.JPG
Then it gets trimmed to our scribe line and the end media blasted in prep for welding. Our new end is test fit and trimmed until we get the right distance to our reference marks. The "batwings" give us a heat sink at the edge for less chance of burning back the edge at the weld.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6837.JPG
The center rib is aligned both on the sides and the face, and tacked in position using the TIG.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6838.JPG
The pieces are aligned as we work outward, tacking as we go. A "corking tool" is used as a dolly where any bumping may be needed for alignment.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6842.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6840.JPG
Tacked...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6846.JPG
Welded....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6847.JPG
Welds cleaned up and end angles compared..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6851.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6854.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6855.JPG
Now we can get back to straightening sheet metal..
We have a few more spots to fix from cracking and fatigue, namely the holes on the underside for the rubber hood bumpers. We've already repaired three, and from the looks of it, need to take care of the remaining three..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6895.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6896.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6897.JPG
18 Gauge x 1/4" plugs were TIG welded in to fill the existing holes, and a copper backer gives us a bit of a heat sink so the cracks/fatigued areas don't blow a big hole on us..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6904.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6908.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6909.JPG
Welds were dressed on both sides of the sheet metal, and new holes drilled slightly in farther from the edge to help slow down the reappearance of cracks.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6943.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6944.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6945.JPG
Next, I'm sure everyone has seen how these hoods can oil can, show low spots, and try to flop around while driving down the road. Part of that is abuse over the years, fatigue, etc. Any low spots invariably result in a loss of support of the hood and will show oil cans or loose areas.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6966.JPG
A good tool to check the crown of the hood is a long straight edge in the form of a 36" rule. If you don't have one, most hardware stores sell aluminum flat bar for a few dollars that will make a good profile template. For this style hood, lows are bad, straight is better, and a slight crown in the center crease along the entire length of the "flat" area of the hood is optimal.. This gives the support to help eliminate those oil cans and floppy hoods.
When we started there was an obvious area about 12" forward of the rear edge, dead center, that appears low, and was easily pushed downward. In order to better define the center crease and provide the support needed, we will use a sand bag (a rather large one) and lightly hammer from the bottom side into said bag with a purpose built "punch".
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6967.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6969.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6968.JPG
In order to keep the back portion of the hood down against the bag for support, we used our latest "metalshaping" tool to hold the front of the hood up, an engine hoist..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6958.JPG
A reference mark is used on the inside, measured and centered...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6961.JPG
The crease was checked for low spots prior, and the bottom marked. The "punch" is dragged along the centerline and tapped as you go. Flip the hood over, check crown, remark as needed, repeat. We got to a good straight/slight crown and the oil can disappeared. Pushing along the entire center crease was a nice tight support now..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6962.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6964.JPG
So if you are having issue with your hood, I would suggest first checking your center crease.
More awesome work and great tips too!
If only I had a gigantic sand bag like that.
Thanks Guys!!
The 51 F7 hood is closer to reuniting with the brace with the newly repaired ends.. Epoxy primer will be under the brace this time around to help prevent the new side patches from rusting again..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7313.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7321.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_7209(1).JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_7210(1).JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_7211(1).JPG
Some blocking tips on the F7 hood. We have a nice crease on the inside of the hood from front to back. These scratches show that we would be taking material off the adjacent side if no other steps were taken to stop our sanding block at the center of the crease...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7382.JPG
By adding a strip of tape along the center, it gives us a positive stop for the sanding block..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7381.JPG
Then switching for the other side....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7383.JPG
Which leaves us a nice crease in the middle, and panels nice and flat to either side...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7385.JPG
Final blocking on the inside using tape to keep the center line sharp, then brace welded in place and some epoxy touch ups done..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7450.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7469.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7472.JPG
With the touch ups blocked, we're ready for some Epoxy/sealer, some PPG ESSS base, and my first time spraying SPI Universal... WooHoo! love this clear!!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7844.JPG
These Ford truck hoods can be a pain to get good paint coverage inside the nose.. So a couple pieces of TIG wire from our rack to the hood brackets hold it up in the air so we can get into the nose with the spray gun..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7846.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7849.JPG
Thought I'd do a progression of pictures to show the carnage we started with on the hood brace to where it was painted this past weekend....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6697.JPG
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDZyTTuUGVE
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6670.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6709.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6715.JPG
Note the wings left adjacent to the weld to act as heat sinks and prevent the edge from burning back...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6734.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6737.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_7209(1).JPG
No Body filler, just epoxy primer, basecoat, and clearcoat. Looks almost factory!!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7862.JPG
So every time we place the hood on my folding stand, the hood skin deflects upward at those pressure points (corners). Which means that won't work for blocking out the hood. So lets' use the same supports that the hood uses and make a blocking "stand".
Large 5/8" bolt through the hood latch hole for supporting the nose...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7869.JPG
And going through our scrap inventory, here's some tubing we used for the back end, bolted into the hinge support. The extra "feet" help to stabilize it so the sanding effort won't try and flop it over...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7871.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7872.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7873.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7874.JPG
With that done, all our open holes are taped over and the entire bottom side masked off to protect the inside finish..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7923.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7924.JPG
A bit of Evercoat 416 to address some lows, and 3 coats of SPI epoxy for the next round of blocking on the outside.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7955.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7957.JPG
Blocking...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7962.JPG
Some booth clean up and fresh masking on the table, hood pre-cleaned and tacked.....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7963.JPG
Sealed with SPI Epoxy thinned about 10%
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7964.JPG
Fleet paint that was used originally on the truck, supplied by owner. Orange peel in a can..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7965.JPG
2 coats of color, 2 coats of SPI Universal Clear...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7993.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_7995.JPG
"Orange Peel in a can".... rotflomao!:LOL::LOL::LOL::eek::eek::3dSMILE::3dSMILE:
Brought a smile to my dial too.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
This past Friday night we cut and buffed the F7 hood to get rid of some dust nibs, and Saturday morning Jared and I started to reassemble the hood. The horn wiring had some dry and cracking insulation sleeving, so it was replaced as well.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_8020.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_8022.JPG
John stopped by mid morning and we got all the parts put back together and adjusted. Looks much better with the hood back on, John has been driving without one for a couple months.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_8023.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_8025.JPG
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https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_8029.JPG
All ready for the Tri-state Antique Truck Show this week in Clear Brook VA..
That is a fine looking truck! Ya' did good, Robert, but then we all know you always do!
That truck is way to beautiful to use as a truck. Great work!
times 3... great work as always. congrats to the crew!
Quote:
Originally Posted by v8nutz
:LOL: OK, just to show that this truck does work on occasion, John got the it loaded up today, ready for departing tomorrow for the show at the Frederick County Fairgrounds in Clear Brook, VA. I may have to take a ride on Friday and check out the show..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_8031.JPG