Headers for 69 chevelle?

Can anyone recommend headers for my 69 chevelle nomad? The summit brand headers I am currently running don't allow access to #4 plug. Plus half the bolts are nearly non-accessable.

Which engine?

Ya probably won't care for this suggestion, but if it's running a small block why not pick up a pair of the Dorman repop Corvette manifolds. They have bigger runners than the standard rams horns and 2 1/2" outlets. Kind of hard to beat the current price thru speedway ($114 a pair).

For the street I doubt you will notice any performance loss over headers and it will eliminate a lot of the headers hassles.



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The guys on the Team Chevelle website seem to prefer Doug's Headers on big block applications. I don't think you could go wrong with Doug's if you are running a small block.

Sorry I neglected to say, it's a boring old 350 bored and stroked to a 383

I kind of like the idea of less hassles. I'll definitely entertain the idea of the Vette manifolds.

I hate to say it, but I never found any commonly available tube headers for a small block Chevy that didn't offer some hassle getting to the plugs, especially straight plug heads, and in a car with power brakes and A/C, it is even worse most often. The manifolds Mike P mentioned would get my vote if precision performance is not an issue.

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I concur with the manifold suggestion. I had a '69 Chevelle and ran both Hooker and Doug Thorley - both had clearance issues. The Hookers were better, but access to the bolts were a real pain in the neck. If I were going to do it now, I'd start with Stage Eight locking bolts in stainless. I know they're expensive, but they have a hex head as well as an Allen inset that allows better access. Once they're tight, put the locks in place and forget about the hassle of re-tightening them. Stainless of course doesn't rust either.

Just my 2 cents...
Glenn

I'm going with the doorman manifolds, 647-501, $111.99 Ea. @ O'Reillys. I have flanges around here somewhere, I'll see if they fit or else I'll have to order some. Or they might come with. That would be nice.

I'll let y'all know how they fit.

The manifolds are in. Looks like I traded one problem for another. It's real tight at the crossmember, and is going to have to make a tight jog to clear the starter.

I don't know what doorman was thinking when they put the stud kit together for these. The manifold needs four short bolts, and two long. Yet the stud kit include three short bolts, and three too- short bolts, and only three nuts and washers! And one manifold was missing the smog plugs.

What a mess. To use the studs, I have to screw them in with manifold in place, because there is not room enough to slide the manifold past the studs, so I'm thinking I'm better off with bolts.

Is there a decided advantage to studs over bolts for exhaust manifolds? Does it matter to the aluminum heads?

And even better: they didn't come with a flange kit, and the kid at O'Reillys has no idea how to look it up. I thought I could get them through Summit, but they don't show 2" flange & neck sets. I'll have to call Doorman Monday.

I just used bolts on mine.

I'm not sure the manifolds you have are the ones I was talking about and even if they are you might still want to order these and return the ones you have if you still can, if nothing else just for the cost (there 1/2 the price you paid. These require a 2 1/2" flange.

Corvette-Style 2-1/2 Inch Ram Horn Exhaust Manifolds, Pair - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

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OK, I got on doorman's site, and cross referenced the part to a 1990 Chevrolet C60, so maybe that will give the kid at O'Reillys something to go on. Also I found doorman's flange, but not the shoulder (pipe).

I'm thinking to cut a wedge out of the manifold and weld it back together. (MIG). Is this feasible since the manifold is cast iron, would it crack apart in use?

Mike, I looked at those, and they are about a quarter inch longer, and would exacerbate my clearance problem.

These manifolds are not corvette specific, but visually, they are identical: I hoped they might work better, as I'm working on a chevelle.

Maybe I'll return the manifold that I didn't weld shut the holes, and modify the bloody header.

I decided it would be less work to modify the header.

First, I expanded the flange face for port #6 by laying down a bead with the mig. Then I ground it down, and carefully filed it dead flat. Now maybe it will stop blowing out the gasket.

Next, I sawzalled the #4&6 tubes about a half inch from the flange, and at a convenient spot about half way down. From an old piece of tubing, I cut spacers, 1/2" for #4, 3/4" for #6, and welded it back together, after trimming the cut pieces appropriately.

I added some new heat wrap, then squeezed it back in from under the car. The mods made it almost not fit, but I found its sweet spot. Once in place it has lots of clearance. So do the spark plugs. Yay!

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...psmzsoecw5.jpg

Same ship on drivers side. #5 wire destroyed.

Step one. Cut out pieces of #3&5.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdvx4sesa.jpg

#5 mod complete.

You mentioned that you hoped to solve a problem of blowing out exhaust gaskets with your modification. I'd say that there's little chance of that problem being solved, looking at those flanges. Quality headers have 3/8" thick flanges to eliminate warping with heat and pressure, and cheaper headers have 5/16" or even 1/4" thick. Yours look to be more like 1/8" to 3/16" but it may be the camera angle fooling the eye.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...psrmyjv1ut.jpg
#3 mod complete

'Tis the camera angle. They're 1/4"

FAIL.

You are a no- go at this station.

Report to your first- line supervisor for additional training.

#3 down tube is still too close to #5 plug.
Pulling it back off.

Good to see that you took on the challenge and got the outcome you were looking for; that's what this game is all about. I hope the flange problem does not recur, though, 1/4" flanges are pretty chancy, like Roger says; the first headers I had on my '59 had 1/4" flanges, and I was always fighting leaks. Put a set on with 3/8", and heavier tubes, and no more fussing around with them..

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http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...psdnyywuxr.jpg
would these work?

Possibly.

I'll have it licked soon as I rework tube #3.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskea9f2ni.jpg

#3 completed again

Success. I would like to have brought #5 out another quarter inch, but it is good.

I'm also going to make booties for the wires using the heat wrap. That will give them an extra layer of heat protection.

do you run the plug wires over or under the headers?

More success!

Swapping the edelbrock 2601 air gap to the edelbrock 7101 performer got rid of my cold - start and mid - throttle issues. I might even try swapping the 600 edelbrock back to the 750 and see how it does.

This whole time it's been running the wrong plugs. It had the short - nosed plugs, needs the long - nosed.
I also found the dizzy cap contaminated with oil, probably from the rear breather cap. Since I have the PCV on that side, I plugged that breather. Cleaned the cap with contact cleaner and compressed air. New wires - #5&6 were fried.

Altogether, it's never run this smooth.

Kind of supports the old adage:

If you want it done right, do it yourself.

Jerry - both over and under, whichever provides the best protection to each wire.