Starting the new build 32 Coupe

Okay guy's,,, I go pick up the rolling next weekend and have already started looking for parts I'm gonna need to complete the rolling.

One area I was wondering was the radiator. Seems like when looking at the websites the 32 is a mission specific radiator. When you look for them they only have the one year while others have a range in years.

Should I stick with a radiator built especially for the 32 year model or are there others that will work as well?

From the way they read,, its the tabs that are on them for the grille that stand out the most. One I could see a photo of looked as if the bottom tank was tapered on the ends to match the cross member.

All inputs are welcome here guy's.
Thanks
HotRodN

You want a '32 radiator to fit the chassis and mount the grill. Lots of choices, I like PRC which is what Duane normally buys.

Use a radiator specific to the '32. If you try to use "something else," you won't like the can of worms you just opened.

Reminders . . . think about everything that is affected by the radiator.
- Engine type for inlet and outlet locations.
- Air conditioning or not? If yes, fitment of a condenser. Its probably best to buy them together.
- Auto or manual trans? If auto, you need a heat exchanger in the radiator.
- Fan. Engine mounted or electrical? In either case, you need to consider the shroud and the space between the radiator and the engine. Personally, I prefer electric fans. I have a 435 HP SBC, and my electric fan setup keeps the engine temp pegged solid at 180F - and I'm in Texas.

Your application is so common that all you will have to do is think about these reminders, then call the supplier. He will undoubtedly have a list of specs for you to check off. No biggie, if you think it through.

Roger,, will ask Duane about it when I go pick up the project,
Jack,, ( my Dad's name to cool) I'm in Texas also near Houston,,, yes sir,,, it gets really hot here,,, will be running AC and also auto trans,,, was going to use a separate cooler for the trans,,, engine is a 350 with Tri-Power Rochester's on Vortec heads, also want to run electric fan,,, power will be in the 300HP range ( I hope) maybe a little less,,, 180 temp is what I'm after,,, just curious about the center top outlet when running AC. Seems like the best place for it to avoid hose/belt interference.
What I am seeing is these are pretty pricy for a good one,,, but no skimping here,,, to much at stake LOL,,, thanks for getting back guy's,,,, there's one on Speedway Garage Sale I was interested in.

Get the trans cooler built into the radiator, then you don't have to hunt for a place to mount a separate heat exchanger. I've posted about electric fans in my build log, recently. Avoid Spal's straight blade model. It's inexpensive, but noisy. Spal offers better models.

You need to determine the theme of the car before you ever begin looking for parts and pieces. That's where newbie builders make their mistake, not starting with a plan and not building to the plan. For instance, you'll want to choose either a highboy or a lowboy build and the radiator for each build would be very different. Here's a conventional low-boy coupe with the body channeled down over the frame rails. The radiator is shorter to match up with the cowl, so that if a hood is fitted, it looks right, rather than using a full height stock radiator and having the hood run downhill from the radiator to the cowl.
http://www.hotrodhotline.com/feature...s/IMG_1063.jpg

Here's a lowboy with hood sides....
http://www.kustomrama.com/images/a/a...dow-coupe9.jpg

Here's a highboy with stock height radiator and hood sides. Note how the vertical line of the radiator cuts right through the centerline of the tire in side view. If the radiator is at this point relative to the tire, or a little rearward of the tire, the eyeball is good. If the radiator is mounted forward of the tire centerline, the car will begin to look clunky, like it was built by a hillbilly on a tree stump.
http://image.hotrod.com/f/10166380+w..._side_view.jpg

Here's a gorgeous little lowboy coupe, done in classic "caps and rings" style.....
http://www.kustomrama.com/images/8/8...932-ford-2.jpg

So, like I said, determine a style of build first and purchase parts that will favor that style of build. Same with the motor. Do Not Buy Even One Engine Part Until You Have The Entire Engine Plan Written Down And Checked Out By The Fellows On This Forum. That's my absolute best advice to you. First thing most newbies do is to get on the phone and order a camshaft. BZZZZZT, wrong. The cam will be the last piece chosen for the engine, after everything else is bought and fitted. The very last piece chosen for the drivetrain will be the torque converter.

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HotRodN, you want to run the trans cooler in the radiator, but the reason is not so much a space consideration as it is a control feature. Your trans needs a relatively constant operating temperature, and while Houston will see more hot/warm temps than cold it still gets cool to cold for a month or so in what we call "winter". An external cooler works using ambient air, while the in-radiator cooler will be affected by the coolant temperature, warming up quicker and remaining at a more constant temperature year round. An external cooler alone can over-cool the fluid, which is not good. Accessory coolers should be run in series with the in-radiator cooler, and IMO should be upstream of the in-radiator cooler, not after, and are only needed for towing or other high load conditions.

The install diagrams you will find for using an aftermarket cooler in front of the radiator together with the stock cooler in the bottom of the radiator always show the fluid coming from the trans, through the radiator cooler, then through the aftermarket cooler. This always seemed bass-ackwards to me. As you said Roger, it makes more sense to take the lion's share of heat from the fluid with an aftermarket cooler in front of the radiator, then run it through the in-radiator cooler to get the fluid back to the temperature where it will work best in the transmission and torque converter. In my opinion, too cold is just as bad as too hot.

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Will you be running full fenders, or will it be a highboy? That's important info to start with. It affects a lot of parts choices.

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Originally Posted by HotRodN

will be running AC and also auto trans,,, was going to use a separate cooler for the trans

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With the engine you're talking about, you shouldn't need a separate cooler. If you decide to use one, follow Roger's advice. What trans are you considering? 700R4 or 200-4R?

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engine is a 350 with Tri-Power Rochester's on Vortec heads, also want to run electric fan,,, power will be in the 300HP range ( I hope) maybe a little less

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Is this an engine you have on hand, a crate motor or something you plan to have built? It matters.

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just curious about the center top outlet when running AC.

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If you're using a standard Chevy engine, center top outlet and right-side inlet gives the best clearance in most applications.

One last piece of advice (for now) - if you run out and buy wheels and tires right now, you'll regret it unless you've given it some serious thought or gotten some very good advice.

What Tech says should be engraved onto the forehead of every rodder who ever tries to start a build. When we start a build, we start with a spreadsheet. At the top of the spreadsheet is the theme of the car. IT may be "build a car period correct for 19xx" or some similar goal. Then, under headings such as "BODY", "ENGINE", "DRIVETRAIN", "INTERIOR", and "ELECTRICAL", I list every component that I can imagine the car to have. Thus, I am making a list of components. Then, next to each component, I list what it is and a source so a line may say "steering wheel" "1939 banjo" "have in stock"
This spreadsheet is an evolving document that changes over time and as you find parts. My spreadsheet was about 10 pages long for my 39 coupe and was shorter for the 32 roadster. As we continued the build, we referred to the plan....was the part consistent with the theme? This helped prevent a fat GM steering column from getting into a retro build. IT also prevented us from straying from the theme as time passed. The document was started before the first part was acquired....just like Tech said. Cams, wheels and tires, converters, etc. are the LAST items.....even after paint and interior. Too many novices get excited and order wheels and tires first and then find them outdated or find cooler ones when the car nears completion. Start with a plan is the best advice ever for a car build.

Okay guy's it's finally here and I'm beat LOL,,,, long weekend no stopping trip except to jaw with Duane,,,, will get photos uploaded as soon as I can,,, have to send them from phone to email. Happy with the car not to get busy with the build. Really looking forward to all the input from you guy's.
Later,
HotRodN
P.S Sent in a reply post to all the above but for some reason it's not showing,,, I'm pretty sure I hit the "post quick reply" button,,,, will cover it again later.

So here are a few pix of the pick up and progress to date,,,, getting the KBS rust preventative on now while trying to not get so danged hot,,,, down to applying the final coat and moved it back in the garage,,, need to email myself the pix from the garage and hope to get them today,,,, have to go help my sister prep for moving :(((

P.S the tires on there now are just for moving it around,,, will get the real tires once it's ready for the road testing phase

The KBS coating is on but man did I have a lot of runs,,,, operator error for sure,,, so after drying and sanding it got a coat of grey primer spray,,,, over this past labor day weekend I've just about put everything back on. Now to rest a bit and ponder the next thing I want to tackle. :whacked:

Here's a few pix of the progress.

I used a Griffin radiator on my 32, just worked on a buddies that got his from Portell radiator in Desoto Mo near St Louis I believe, about as nice a radiator as I have seen and he makes custom shrouds also, plus his price beats a lot of others,
Heres something I found out lately, the 32 radiator mounts with springs on top the tabs so they are pushing down the tabs against the frame, I always wondered why this arrangement, Henry came up with this so when the frame twisted it didn't yank the tabs off the radiator or tear the radiator! Your frame won't have much twist but kinda neat why they where like that originally. lookling good so far, have fun!

Nice work on getting the frame primed! Your coupe is taking shape nicely!

Okay,,, need some more input. I'm wanting to maybe install the steering column. Thing is, when I put it at an angle that looks okay to me the drop would have to be 12 inches long to hold it lol. Would ya'll send links are post pictures of your installs so I have a few points of refference. I'm really only interested in 32 Coupe installs.
Another thing is I read where the max angle of the coupling should not exceed 30 degrees.

Okay folks fill me in lol

You'll find that most Fords from '28 to '34 can have the same issue you're having in getting to that Vega box. Much of the time, you'l need an intermediate U-joint and support bearing. This photo is in my '34, but the concept is very similar for the '32.

Attachment 64596

Have built over 100 32's in my day and never had 2 use and intermediate shaft and support collar. Trick is get the column 4/5 inches thru the firewall then it's a straight shot to the Vega box, with 1 u-joint (Max 34 degrees BTW) Drill hole in floor board just above toe board area. Most drill the hole to high on the firewall creating the angle problem.
Same goes for 33/34.

Again there are lots of variables so what others have done may not exactly replicate your situation. Most of those variables are not body to frame placement related but rather have to do with column length, engine height, header type, pedals, etc. Looking at your frame prep pics it appears that your steering box is mounted slightly lower than I usually see (not necessarily a negative), which means access could be better (or just different) than what Jack showed, or what I'm going to post here.

On my roadster the drop is about 5 1/2" to center of steering column shaft. Neither steering joint is near 30 degrees so my drop could even be shorter. It is where it is to work with the low seating height to stay below the chopped w/s top .

Just finished this and delivered to trim shop this am, it's and N&N 3 window just like the OP's, no problem with header clearance and no intermediate shaft.Look how far the column sticks thru the firewall and where.

I want to thank all you guy's for posting these photos. Has helped a bunch. I'm trying not to really over think this LOL. When I was putting the eye to it I was also sitting on the floor and didn't' think about seat height. I just kept looking at the angle it was taking to get the steering wheel facing me flat on which I don't think is possible. It's gonna have somewhat of a tilt (I think) even though the column itself is the tilt style. Might not be a big deal.

Talked with Duane and he said to measure 4 inches up from the seem where the firewall and floor/toe meet, then however far I'd like it from the brake peddle arm. I'm thinking about 1 3/4" which it looks like where DA34 has his. Maybe I'll take a shoe and set it in there as a guide sort of.

DA34,,, your body is channeled a little and mine is not,,,, did you punch the hole 4 inches up from the floor/toe seem??? Also,,, is your drop a 6 inch or 5 1/2",,, I've only found 5 1/2" so far.

The steering column is an IDIDIT 30 or 31 inch,,, can't remember which length but I purchased it thru N&N and Duane got the one he uses on all his builds.

The headers are Flowtech Rams horn which have a higher arch to them than other brands. Having looked at Bob's pix and seeing the generator I'm hoping that a standard alternator will not hit the exhaust. I need to find that out quick because I only have 60 days to return them. May mess with it this weekend IF I can find a mount setup in time.

I plan on running AC and heat so the pump will be on the passenger side.

I'll get some pix posted soon as I can and before I punch that danged hole for ya'll to review. Unless I get antsy and cut it anyways

Oh yea,,, love that 3 deuce setup ya got there but where did you get those tall stacks for the carbs??? I'm running 3 deuces also,,, at least for the moment,,,, if I can't get it to idle without some choke they are coming off. I think the idle screw holes need to be drilled out just a tad.
HotRodN

Hey DA34,,, send me the info on those tires and wheels,,,, I like um :)))

Finally got the hole cut and trimmed out,,,, take a look and let me know if you see anything glaring out. Took me 4 hours to get it in but at least there is a hole. Still have to finish he upper mount install as it's only clamped in place now until I make a dummy wheel (probably a board with a hole in the center) to check distance from the door panel clearance.

This is my second attempt to post pictures,,, the first time didn't work :((

Okay so it's sticking out about 4 inches at the moment. I left it up high in case I needed to move it down some. Nothing is permanent except the hole LOL. From the way it looks I don't think I'm beyond the 34 degree max angle but I haven't actually measured it with a protractor.

Looks good from my house! It's really difficult to gauge an angle in a picture but, it doesn't appear to be to bad .. and of course as you raise or lower the column, the angle will change again.

I'd suggest that you don't go too far without getting your seat in place, or at a minimum a stack of boards equal to your final seat thickness to sit on and gauge what column drop works best for you. As for the hole being permanent, you can easily glass it closed and drill another in a better position if you find it necessary. A neat way to anchor the bottom of the column and give it a finished look is to buy a cheap chrome tailpipe extension with a rolled end, slide it over your column and mark the angle inside the floor once your drop is finalized. Cut it off, weld on a pair of tabs and bolt it to the firewall. The column bottoms against the rolled end, and the bolted pipe secures the bottom just fine. One of Duane's little tips.

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Originally Posted by HotRodN

Hey DA34,,, send me the info on those tires and wheels,,,, I like um :)))

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The rears are Rear are 285 70 15 Goodrich T/A. They're no longer available, except through Coker re-pops, and I wouldn't have a pair of those on any car.

Another option is an Ididit floor mount for the steering column. You can use the SWIVEL BALL FLOOR MOUNT SHOWN HERE. It's more expensive than Roger's suggestion, but it's very nice. Other companies make similar products.

Angle on shaft looks great. Button it up and go for it

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Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

The rears are Rear are 285 70 15 Goodrich T/A. They're no longer available, except through Coker re-pops, and I wouldn't have a pair of those on any car.

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Yep the Cokers are as round as a brick. Ya couldn't give me a set

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Originally Posted by DA34GUY

Yep the Cokers are as round as a brick. Ya couldn't give me a set

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Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

The rears are Rear are 285 70 15 Goodrich T/A. They're no longer available, except through Coker re-pops, and I wouldn't have a pair of those on any car.

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I guess I got lucky! I went with Coker BFG's on my '33 and they've been just fine. I expect that I'll roll the dice on another pair when the time comes - nothing else out there that gives the same profile & tread, and buying NOS tires, if you find them puts you well past the DOT date limit before they ever see air.

Here's a handy chart that I think Ryan (40FordDeluxe) posted giving current tire sizes available from the name brands - http://tire-size-conversion.com/tiresizes/

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Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Another option is an Ididit floor mount for the steering column. You can use the SWIVEL BALL FLOOR MOUNT SHOWN HERE. It's more expensive than Roger's suggestion, but it's very nice. Other companies make similar products.

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Yeah, my approach is a bargain basement approach. Not nearly as nice as the billet swivels, but cheap and effective, and it doesn't give a rat rod look.

Keeping with the exhaust parts theme here's a solution I use. The column mast is a length of exhaust pipe so I use a standard exhaust flange. The inner edges need to be taper ground depending on toe board angle, then welded. Clean, cheap, solid.... just another way to get there.

That's how I do it also Bob
Simple easy and CHEEP !!!!!!

Too bad there wasn't an area to put that tire chart link as a sticky. I use that thing quite a bit. It sure makes it nice to try to find some good used tires to buy off CL to use to mock up before spending big bucks on tires that may not work out the way you thought. :LOL:

Hey Roger,
Yep I built a wood seat but need to add some shims underneath to raise it up just a tad. I've got an almost endless supply of scarp wood from all the new homes being built around here LOL.
Bought a floor mount when I ordered the column drop so that's covered, just hadn't installed it until the column is in it's final location angle wise.
I'm happy with the location of the hole because I know my fat foot will go on the left of it without too much hassle. There's also ample room for the brake pad but it will have to be a home made jobber I think. Hope to get to work on it more this weekend time and chores permitting.
Will post the progress as it comes,,,, along with questions ha ha ha .
Cheerio and Pip Pip ya'll,
HotRodN