http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...pseksilur1.jpg
It's passable!
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http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...pseksilur1.jpg
It's passable!
Looks pretty good. Is there an ammeter in the gauge cluster?
looks much better!
Yes, the rallye cluster has ammeter, but I've bypassed it.
Nice job:cool:
The replacement heater box came in yesterday, so today I got busy with it. The front was in good shape, but the back half was damaged. So, i dissasembled both, and decided the back half of mine was a better canidate for repair. So I laid some fiberglass over the cracks, and reassembled it, caulking the seams. I was able to get it back in, just as the rain came. If the rain slacks off, i can get the dash back in.
Dash looks good to me. I'm guessing the dash wasn't perfect when it was new either.
I got it all back in today, soon as the rain stopped.
The defrost still does not work. No vacuum on any lines; any setting: good vacuum to switch. Dam, but I should have looked at the switch while it was out.
I'll try blowing compressed air thru it tomorrow, maybe it's clogged up.
On the bright side, I now know all the dapshots and flapper valves are good. AND, I now get a little blowing from the defrost, and strong from the front vents, whereas before I had near nothing.
I guess any progress is good right?
Keep at it your getting there!
I blew through the vacuum switch using compressed air, with the dapshot lines unplugged.
I now get vacuum to the dapshots, but the switch leaks air, so the vacuum signal is too weak to operate the dapshots. Plus, I fear the lines are not correct. Anyone had any luck fixing a leaky vacuum switch? I'll post an inquiry on the charger forum about the placement of the lines on the dashpots: they are color coded
I now have defrost. The damper which directs air to defrost vents is default position to defrost, so all good there. The damper which directs defrost vs. Front vents, I ran a zap screw in to hold it shut to defrost.
It's easy to access for un- doing when I get the replacement switch, but for now, it's fixed.
Joy and happiness, I had a loose ground; found it and now my fuel gauge works. The courtesy light turned out to be the bulb- poor contact in the socket.
In retrospect on the dash repair:
Using great stuff to fill the V grooves I cut where the dash had cracked: not so wonderful. The great stuff tends to create air pockets, although it does trim and sand easily.
Using body filler to finish out the cracks repair: not the best idea to use a non- flexible medium for this application.
If I were to do it again, I would try silicone for filling the V grooves. I would leave a lump, and trim it smooth with a razor blade when dry.