Thread: valve guides

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Originally Posted by racemaster

Very informative, thank you. I still have not torn them down so dont know why the valves would lock up on the guides, overheating maybe? Lack of oil? Also noticed the pc seals on those two valves are coming apart. None of the valves appear sunk in so Im hoping I can get away with just grinding the seats. I expect to replace a few valves and guides but it seems like wishful thinking, may have to file 13 them and start looking for another pair.

one thing to keep in mind that it can be hard to center up on a worn out guide there ways to do this. to do job like that if some ones been there you can only hope he was on center when they cut it for guides as you can run out of iron on a head thats been worked over good you may have to put a seat in to clean up all the way around the seat.i seen nice heads turned to junk were you would have to use a bigger valve just to hang a 45 back on the seat if the guy did not want all new seats. some tooling can walk around some. a good valve job is only as good as the guides and pilot for tooling my pilots are made from solid carbide to hold down flex = runout .i do not grind much seats any more putting more then 4 angles would eat a days time up. i like to keep my valves under .005 up or down so i use the3D set up so when i get in new heads that have over 2.300/2.460 intakes its no big deal were stones getting clumsy .i can start with a raw head with a square seat no angles come down and form the radius to chamber 4 angle s and drop down in the start of the bowl. pick cutter out then drop in the bowl and cut that all out .i would hate to do the job with only stones so there only use some times for a touch up. some seats i do not even like to be around when the machine cutting on it. this stuff called berylilum i do not grind it its very bad news here is a all out race head and tooling i use for the job