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using there words , but change the words drums to discs, change 10# to 2 #, change shoes to pads------------
In the op post-----the first pedal push takes up slack and 2nd is then hard!!!!!!! the reason the 2 # valves were developed was because the 10# make the pads drag and they still needed something so they came up with a 2 #----------------
Your link is to a bunch of your pictures....???????????????????Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Not sure about that link. It links to the AF museum.
OKKKKKKKKK Sorry---I tried to post that pic of the radial engine in Scooters thread-------
then tried to copy/paste some words right from RS post but changed some words so as to explain that disc brakes should have a 2# valve to maintain pad proximity to disc just like drums need 10# to keep shoes close to drums--------
The use of these valves goes back several years and most likely not a single OEM disc brake car ever had a master under the floor----the use of a master with a big and little reservoir tank was common for drum/disc combo -------
I know it is internet theory that the disc only needs the valve if the master is under the floor but the most important thing is NOT to use a 10# on discs or the brakes will drag creating lots of heat and brake fade---------
The 2 # will barely do anything except keep the pad near the disc (disc runout will creat running clearance) no matter where your master is located-------------
So the bottom line is that no residual valves are needed for a stock OEM installation where the master is on the firewall and all slaves are lower.
No-------bottom line is to use 2# valve for disc brakes----
Sorry...I thought I clarified earlier....the master cylinder is mounted below the calipers. The brakes are Strange discs, all components are new, except the 2# residual valves, which are installed in the front and rear lines. I ordered new residual valves and will get them tomorrow. I just don't have a lot of confidence in that being the problem. Thanks for all the suggestions.
when i my built my race GTO i hade a line lock .wilwood disc front and back . i just had a proportion valve that i could adjust brake bias master was mount on the floor as the engine was moved back 5 inchs. i did use residual check valves#2s . the stander master many resell under there name. but is mopar master with a 1 1/16 bore i used this master on all my cars . was told at the time to put residual check valves as close as i could to the master and i did . after many bleeding the master i had good pedal was a pain in the ass. but had more parts in the system and alot them 1/8 npt to female inverted flare as for that guy should be shot for that ideal . it was a uphill battle to get sealed up . if you have a power bleeder un hook the pedal push rod then bleed it then hook up the pedal push rod if pedal feels better need to work on the push rod and check that there is nothing a the way holding pedal travle back. some proportion valves like gm 1971to77 had some residual presure built in for better braking feel. if you feel every thing is right then look at the master sucking air. if you want a cheat some lets say the rotors you have are 375 thick go find a cunk of metal about same in size unbolt the caliper lay on the floor or milk crate still hook up then bleed them that way master not level they will bleed betterQuote:
Originally Posted by lodilobo