frame advice

hello all, newbie here looking for some frame advice, i have a 1928 tudor that i need to build a frame for , i also have a 1970 429 ford and c6 combo that i would really like to use, was going to build the frame from 4"x2"x3/16" rec. tube, would this frame handle this also was thinking suicide front end and splitting the wishbones would this front end be able to support the big block combo, am going to get aluminum intake and water pump now, and maybe heads as i can afford them, any advice really appreciated, thanks

Hey Demano, welcome to CHR! Are you going to do a tudor hiboy or a fendered car? Either way it's sounding like a great project.

Others may disagree, but if you're up for building a frame from scratch I'd look at starting with a matched pair of repop rails instead of going straight tube. Speedway sells a set of Model A rails that would give you a period correct approach - 1928-31 Ford Model A Frame Rails - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
But if you're going hiboy how about using a pair of '32 rails? I think that would be a killer look, especially with that big 429 hanging out there exposed to the world! American Stamping makes a great set of repop rails for the Deuce - American Stamping Corporation: Home Page
If you need it there's also a good tubular crossmember or two from Speedway - 1932 crossmembers from Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop Pete & Jake's can help you out with parts like these, too.

thanks for the welcome and info, would really like to start from scratch because of the front and rear z i want, the car will have no hood or fenders, just a little concerned if the suspension and frame will hold the engine combo, thanks again

90 or 125 wall 2X3 or 2x4 should work just fine.

http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-ta...tml?highlight=

Check out this thread

Welcome aboard! Good to see you here. Sounds like a neat project and we're hoping you'll consider a build thread here.

personally I wouldn't use less than .125 (1/8") wall thickness.

Welcome to CHR Enjoy your stay

2" x 4" x 0.125" wall will support any motor/trans combination you want to use. You may want to talk with these guys before you pull the trigger on making the rails yourself.....
Automobile Chassis Manufacturer & Chassis Products | Auto Weld Chassis

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I'd make them myself if I was building a car like you're thinking of. The biggest thing I think would be a set back would be making sure you get it all squared before final welding and during. I'd like to build a new frame for my 40, but I won't until I have a jig set up. And that 2"x4" 3/16" wall should be plenty strong. I'd think about gusseting or plating the joints at the Z's just for cheap insurance.

A bit off topic but something to think about.... Where is the car going to be Registered? Might want to think about whats involved in getting the numbers on an aftermarket frame if you build it from scratch? I think I would get all the registration work done before doing the mods. Then make sure when it's completed that the numbers on the frame are correct with the registration, how ever you want to accomplish that.:cool: I think I would be for modifying a stock frame or keep at least the portion of the old frame with the numbers stamped intacked if ya know what I mean? It sure would be a drag to go to all that work and find out you cant use it on the street? Believe me it happens! Just something to think about and what ever its worth?

Having built several frames with both Moly tubing and original style rails just take your time and make sure everything is squared up nicely and tack everything together with strong tacks before welding it up. Double check everything after tacking. before you do the final weld clamp everthing down the best you can so the weld heat doesnt draw your frame out of square. Skip around when you weld and let the joints cool and normal tempeture before going to the next weldment. Just some tricks Ive learned over the years. Go for it and enjoy the process. :D

What were you thinking Mig, Tig, or something else?

your in for a heck of a ride on this one mate!
good advice given already and i'm looking forward to following along with this---take lots of pictures!
good luck
mark

Just some thoughts and observations on registering / titling since I had to jump through the hurdles no so long ago.
1. The DMV here in Mass. said you had to have the vehicle completed before they'd even look at it for a number, whether original or assigned.

2. The new regs wont allow you a "home made frame". it must have a certification! And who gets certifications? The OEM's!

3. Drivetrain is in the same catagory, the emissions, exhaust, fuel systems all need the certification number, even the rear axle must be within 10% of original!

My car was one of the last to get through the "old" rules. I don't have to meet emissions and can have any engine / drivetrain combo, etc. Even cars built out of state and have a title are starting to be questioned about meeting the new rules. So the old days are gone at least here in Mass.! Heck, even the state Model "A" club members are screaming that they cannot register / title their restored cars! And these guys might be in their 70's and have owned the same car for 30 / 40 years.. They might've just had it off the road for a restore say 9 or 10 years ago, now they want to re-register it only to find they can't! It won't meet the new regs!

I think the suggestion to verify the process of registration / titles should be performed so you are aware of all that is required going into this.

Way oversize on the frame!!!! 2 X 3 X .083 is the biggest I'd use, but then I use a few more gussets and crossmembers then most. As Richard and Howard mentioned, .125" is plenty heavy enough even for mild tubing! Proper structure is way more important when fabricating the mass.....

I'd rather over build a little than have it be a weak structure. It is going to have a 460 so it'll definitely not be as light as most. The 3/16" might be over kill, but it can't hurt other than maybe some weight.

thanks for all the info it is really appreciated and helps put me at ease with my frame choice, will get pics as project kicks off

You should check on how to get your vehicle titled and registered in Arizona before you get too far along. Unfortunately, AZ has not implemented the SEMA model.


(Bear in mind that rules / laws in other states will likely be posted here, but other states have absolutely no bearing on AZ.)

Wescott Auto


stock frames were 4 inches






also check out the drawing for the A body on a 32 frame---6 inches and also has kick up over rear axle------------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

I'd rather over build a little than have it be a weak structure. It is going to have a 460 so it'll definitely not be as light as most. The 3/16" might be over kill, but it can't hurt other than maybe some weight.

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Ryan 3/16" is way overkill, 1/8" is just fine

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1/8" sounds too thin too me with big Z's and a 460. Maybe a drag car but on a street cruiser I can't imagine that 1/8" tubing will like the flex and bouncing over time. Just my opinion though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

1/8" sounds too thin too me with big Z's and a 460. Maybe a drag car but on a street cruiser I can't imagine that 1/8" tubing will like the flex and bouncing over time. Just my opinion though.

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Its definitly not mate, I can't think of any chassis manufacturer that uses 3/16" because as Jerry said earlier 1/8" will take any engine combination you can throw at it.

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Check out the standard passenger car frame, the majority of them are stamped from 10ga. steel, then are only a "C" channel which by design has much less strength then either rectangular or round tubing....