Frame Table Talk

Hi guys. I'm gearing up to building a frame table and was wondering what you guys use or how you made yours. My plan is to make one using wide flange 6"x10" beam or so and using square tube for center cross members with an X or K brace some where to prevent twist. Then I'm going to either bolt or weld legs on it that will be adjustable at the base so i can level it where ever it is at. I'm not set on how big to make it though. 8' long and 4' wide but I'm not for sure yet. What do you guys have? Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.

I have some I beams that are vertical members for lumber racks like at Home Depot---strong, and has holes for bolting on the arms that hold up the lumber----right now they are under some trees in the back yard---I'll see if I can maybe do a pic for you so you'll know what I'm describingC:\Users\jerry clayton\Desktop\033.JPG

Mine is 2" X 4" 11ga. tubing with a 3/8" thick top. It has a centerline running lengthwise and 3 reference lines running horizontally. With different brackets and fixtures it works well for both rectangular tube and round tube cars. Sometime yet this summer I'm going to lower it a bit, then make everything level and square again.

I built two of these tables about a hundred years ago out of 3 x 3 tube and 6" H beams. The beams slide back and forth on guides made from angle.
http://images50.fotki.com/v392/photo..._table1-vi.jpg
It is very handy to be able to move these around and even take them off when not needed.
http://images59.fotki.com/v543/photo..._table2-vi.jpg
I made a double thick melamine top to lauout the frame build for the van. I cut some thin saw kerfs on the centerlines for easy measuring.
http://images51.fotki.com/v303/photo...gtable1-vi.jpg
The tables work great and right now they have an OSB top on them with my whole wiring harness spread out on them.
Mark

Young Machinest I used to know built one almost exact to the idea you have. It was the best frame table I ever saw, he would set it up within plus or minus 015. Frames that came off it were beautiful. Go for it.

I make mine narrow, 28"ish, 2X4X3/8ths thick (thick enough to drill and tap when necessary), i have 6 legs, adjustable 1" allthread, and it sits 14"ish high. I have 3 crossmembers, middle one sideways and sits down about an 1" so it can't interfere with anything sliding on the top.
For whatever frame etc that i am working on on the table i make attachments and tackweld them to the table.
If we were making mutiples of the same frame then we could purpose-build a jig for making that frame, but we aren't and that is why the basic table is as simple and generic as possible then i have the ability to add whatever i need to meet the requirement.
For instance, a Model 'A' frame with a banjo is entirely different than a Model 'A' frame with a 9" rear.
The reason it is narrow is being able to get close to the work piece without banging your legs or leaning out and reaching.
After i position the workpiece onto the table i weld a couple locating tabs that get thru bolted to studs on the table. Then when i take the frame off the table to weld underneath and drop it back on the table it gets relocated by the studs and all is again square and true.
The table is the 'ground height', if you stand on the table you will see your project as completed and when figuring heghts etc you will work with 'real world' numbers and you won't have to remember to add or subtract. You do have to know with certanty the height of your front and rear tires, once you settle on them you can start making the fixtures for the table.