Working a cab in a chevy c10

I've got a 1970 c10 with a "custom" moon roof that was installed by the previous owner. I put the word custom because he cut in a window that is supposed to be mounted on a camper trailer vertically not horizontally. So if it rains to much or gets to hot after being opened it no longer seals.

I have another intact cab on a 69 c20 that I could use (except the floor pan is rotted out). Would it be easier to just cut the roof pan out of both cabs and then re install the roof pan in the 70 or should I cut the floor pans and switch over the other cab.

The roof pan of the 69 has running lights in the front since it had a camper installed in the back. I believe I can pull the lights off and patch up the holes fairly easily and make it look professional.

I really don't know to much about body work but I do know how to weld and make things look decent afterwards.

You can see the moon roof on the left truck and the lights on the right. http://www.clubhotrod.com/garage_att...tach_type=full

Probably easier to just make a panel to replace the opening for the window. Lots of good threads on here that illustrate the proper metal working and shaping techniques to get the job done nicely. If all the '69 needs is some floor work, would be a shame to trash the cab by cutting the roof out! A correctly shaped and installed piece of 20ga would fix up the unwanted opening just fine!

If you can't make a piece for the patch. There are plenty rotted out cabs around to steel a patch from Don't think I'd cut up a good cab (except the floor ) for a patch

It's a decent cab on the 69. It's been sitting un driven rotting since 81. It was buried up to the fenders in leaves and moss when I got it. I only have it for parts because it doesn't run and isn't really mechanically sound. There are things I can use however.

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Originally Posted by cffisher

If you can't make a piece for the patch. There are plenty rotted out cabs around to steel a patch from Don't think I'd cut up a good cab (except the floor ) for a patch

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After doing some searching around in the 69 the only parts of the cab worth keeping is the dash and roof pan. Every thing else including the floor pan, cowl, and fire wall are all extremely rotted. The dash in my 70 is still good but the cowl does have a leak above the glove box. Found that out when one day I got in my truck and the glovebox was on the floor. Got to love cardboard boxes, but any rate it looks like im going to have to tear into both cabs just to get one good one :| . As for the floor pan and fire wall in the 70 I am going to have to change it anyways because it has a 3 on the tree, and I want to switch up to a five or six speed manual with a 427 under the hood.

still gathering parts for my 72 nature is not kind

I've cut a roof from one cab and put it on another by cutting in the middle of the a and b pillars. You just have to measure a lot and brace it really well before welding it back together. In my mind this is the easiest way to fix your roof issue. At least nearly all the cab patch parts are available for these trucks.

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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

I've cut a roof from one cab and put it on another by cutting in the middle of the a and b pillars. You just have to measure a lot and brace it really well before welding it back together. In my mind this is the easiest way to fix your roof issue. At least nearly all the cab patch parts are available for these trucks.

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Ryan's got the right approach. Cutting the pillars is going to be the easiest. Of course, when you're cutting you might cut the pillars on one of them short by three or four inches, then split the top across and use the front of one, back of the other....;) That truck would look killer with a chop.:LOL::LOL::LOL:

I should add that it is a good idea to brace it before you cut it, not after. :LOL:

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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

I've cut a roof from one cab and put it on another by cutting in the middle of the a and b pillars. You just have to measure a lot and brace it really well before welding it back together. In my mind this is the easiest way to fix your roof issue. At least nearly all the cab patch parts are available for these trucks.

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thanks for the tips ill consider that as soon as the snow melts and I can get the cover off my truck to start on it.

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Originally Posted by rspears

Ryan's got the right approach. Cutting the pillars is going to be the easiest. Of course, when you're cutting you might cut the pillars on one of them short by three or four inches, then split the top across and use the front of one, back of the other....;) That truck would look killer with a chop.:LOL::LOL::LOL:

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it would look great with a chop except I am already to tall for it. If I were to chop I'd have to extend the cab as well. I already have to cut down the seat brackets so that I don't hit my head on the roof the way it is.

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Originally Posted by Lefcrak

it would look great with a chop except I am already to tall for it. If I were to chop I'd have to extend the cab as well. I already have to cut down the seat brackets so that I don't hit my head on the roof the way it is.

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Find a 68-72 suburban. Cut it behind the third door and graft the back of your cab on to the end of the burb. Remove the roof and cut it down to match a pickup roof line. hen you have a 3 door crew cab length. :LOL: Lots of work, but sweet when done!

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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Find a 68-72 suburban. Cut it behind the third door and graft the back of your cab on to the end of the burb. Remove the roof and cut it down to match a pickup roof line. hen you have a 3 door crew cab length. :LOL: Lots of work, but sweet when done!

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HAHAHA that would be great but I am not confident enough in my welding abilities to do that. but then I could put a step side on it and it would look really awesome.