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34-40,
Thanks! You're right, It was mentioned early on to measure the stroke length. I blew it being focused on bleeding. I replaced the MC & booster now.... also replaced a section of brake line that looked wet. When bleeding I get a steady stream of fluid, no bubbles. MC bled fully, no bubbles. The pedal feels strong until you turn on the car & then the pedal drops to the floor. Advice?
Mack
SO the only difference is you bled this setup without the motor running? And then you ran the motor and the pedal drops/ dropped lower? Is that correct?
Try bleeding with the motor running if so.... doesn't sound like you got it air free with out the motor running.
Yes, that's the only difference. Ok, thanks 34-40!!
I've switched to a reverse bleeder, you service the car with brake fluid from the bleed ports to the master cylinder----no more problems, and it's a one man job....
Should not drop to the floor but with pressure applied to peddle, start engine the peddle will drop lower towards the floor, normal check any car
Instead of writing it out I found a link to paste that explains anything you would want to know about how a booster is tested or works.
To test See section 5 page 40
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf
Thank You ALL!!!
I just continued bleeding with the 1 man bleeding kit & finally.... We have BRAKES!!! New MC & booster, front wheel cyl's & we're in business!! Thank you guys!!! Still some adjustment in the rear shoes but, the pedal is great! Thanks for hanging with me!!
I am a Custom Jeweler and if I can lend my talents/experience please let me know!
Thanks,
Mack
Congrats to your "stick to it nature"!~ YOU did it!
Cool,my fav. art teacher in 4,5,and 6th grade back the 1950's was also a custom jeweler,Loise King,King Jewely FloridaQuote:
Originally Posted by Mack57