Oil keeps disappearing.....

I posted this on another thread and should've made a new thread.

Dustin El Camino is fast becoming a pain in my side. Lol's. Poor young fella has had his share of problems out of the car already. Keeps wacking his oil pan on stuff. Already has a low profile pan (with kick-outs) so now I'm looking for an even lower profile. Maybe a Miloden or Moroso road race pan. Web site says 7.5" bottom of pan to mounting flange. We have 8.25" now. Car is either leaking a lot of fluid or he has blow by problem.

Question: How long does it usually take an engine with chrome moly rings to seat given the machine shop did everything right? Rings supposedly file fit. He went through 4 qrts of oil in 3 fuel ups. I did notice his oil leaks but definitely not 4 qrts worth.

David

Three tanks of gas, it should have stopped burning oil by now. Unless he didn't break it in right, he has a big leak somewhere.

Unfortunately we didn't break it in.

David

Driving the First 1,000 Miles

1 Start your engine and bring it up to normal operating temperature every time you drive.

2 Monitor the tachometer while driving, and constantly accelerate and decelerate -- or change gears - to vary engine speeds. Never cruise at one continuous engine speed.

3 Change the oil once you reach 500 miles on your new engine.

4 Continue driving in the manner described in Section 2, Step 2 for the next 500 miles.

5 Change your engine oil after 1,000 miles of driving.


If not done you could be nagged by oil consumption and compression problems, and life of the engine can be shortened.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stovebolter

Unfortunately we didn't break it in.

David

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did you wash down the walls with fuel ? bad carb ?? i bore and hone many many holes in a years time all types of engines . go back talk to the machine shop see what they say . i use a deck plate go up to a 22o grit 32RA then plateau finish use strait weigh oil on beak in if there is any rings seam to hook up just fine. last two guy said they had a ring problem they tried to use a PCV when i told them it would not work and both had cheap breather. better crank case venting system fixed them both

The previous owner supposedly had the motor built by a reputable engine builder. It was purpose built more for track use versus street use. I wish I knew more about the motor but I don't. I have never visually noticed any blue smoke on start up or sitting at idle for extended periods of time in the shop.

Now he is telling me the pan has been leaking, which leads me to believe it must be a lot more than I have noticed when he brings it to the shop. I'm considering getting him a new pan. The existing pan appears to be a 6 qrt Miloden low profile, with scraper and windage tray. I've been looking at Miloden and Moroso's road race pans because they'll give him another 3/4" of ground clearance and an additional qrt of oil. But, they don't include a windage tray. They are baffled to the gills though. I assume either are a form of oil control. Anyone with road race experience that can help? Just wondering the perks of either type?

Thanks David

Pat,

He has dual open style elements.....k&n style on passenger. Should be breathing well right?

The way everyone describes their break ins is exactly how I did my last two. I just don't know about this one.

David

i used both the one pan has a windage tray in the pan mildon 309908 or 31503 will work good if you think you need more oil use a 2 qt truck filter .31500 may not clear the A body frame cross member will hit i bet . i went more then a few rounds with them front cross members

both on just one side ? like a round dee rounder ??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

both on just one side ? like a round dee rounder ??

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Here's a pic of what we have Pat. If it linked correctly from my alblum?

[IMG]http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...m/Before_8.jpg[/IMG]

If it's leaking from the pan, I wouldn't worry about the engine, until you guys get the pan leak fixed first, since it's a known problem. Easier to tackle it one problem at a time and rule out one issue before chasing the next. I once had a leak at the back of the engine in an impossible area to see from the top. Once I replaced the pan seal and addressed the rear gasget, all was well!