Problems with the sand paper staying on the DA sander.

The old wheel I had on the DA was starting to come apart so I bought a new one.
Anyway I will start sanding and within a couple minutes the sand paper will fly off
even though the surface is clean that I put the sand paper on. Is there any tricks
or sticky stuff I can put on the pad to help the sand paper stay on.
This paper ain't cheap and the sanding surface ain't even worn down at all and I have to use a new piece because it won't stick to the pad anymore. Any sugestion from the body guys on here. Thanks for the help.
Kurt

wipe new pad clean with lacquer thinner .if that will not work pick up some stick it glue for the paper that may help make the paper have more hook up to pad

Thanks Pat; I used brake cleaner on the pad and then wiped it down with a clean rag.
I am gonna go and get a glue stick is that what you are talking about???
Kurt

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vara4

Thanks Pat; I used brake cleaner on the pad and then wiped it down with a clean rag.
I am gonna go and get a glue stick is that what you are talking about???
Kurt

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do not wipe pad with brake cleaner . use laquer thinner . not glue stick . stick it .spray glue made for paper with no glue on it

That's why I converted to Velco type 15 years ago.
The heat created softens up ANY glue and slings the paper off B4 it's worn out.
Granted the velcro type is more $$$ but, the off set is, ya can pull off a piece and reuse it if your just doin a small area going up in grits.
Just my 2 cents.

Just curious.Is this pad from HF??.

Me too, switched to hook and loop years ago, no more problems with sticky back stuff.....

Thanks DA34guy and Dave; I was looking for that in Pahrump but no one out here has it.
I sprayed it with some of the wifes hair spay last night and it seem to be holding on now.
I am heading in to Vegas this morning for a tool to put the new door skins on my 70 pickup
so I pick one of the hook pads up at the paint store, I have to pick up some primmer/ filler
thats compatable with the PPG base coat/ clear coat. The primmer I have is a sandable
primmer and they said it won't work with the base coat/ clear coat.
No Gary my disc pad is a Campbell Hausfeld Standard 5/16in. -24 thread, and the sanding disc's
are Crystal Bay 345U that I bought from the auto body supply whare house.
They are not the cheap one's and I have a hole roll of these things that won't stick.
Thanks guy's for your help and input.
Kurt

when i started there were no stick it's or hook it's . had to spray the pad with stick it adhesive. god what a mess. had to clean the pad all the time with lacquer thinner.
been using the hook it system for a long time.

Yup, that old stuff was a mess!!!! Think I still have some 250 grit up in the cabinet!!!!! I really like using the hook and loop on an inline or a longboard as you don't have to peel it off and throw it away when it's only half used up cuz you need to go to a finer grit.... Being the cheap Norwegian that I am, I even trim a used 6" hook and loop paper and use it on my 3" DA. Works great on jambs and small parts!

If you get 3M stuff, make sure it's the right stuff, Kurt!!!! 3M 'Hook-it' and Hook-it 2" are not the same---Hook and loops are on different places, one has the hooks on the backup pad, the other has the hooks on the paper!!!! Whichever style you get, make sure they are compatible!!!!!

10/4 Dave, whats the best?
Thanks Kurt

They're about the same, usually better selection and pricing on the original 'Hook it".... Lots of companies besides 3M that make the same paper, too....

I have had good luck with 3M™ Stikit™ Film 265L Disc Rolls never a problem. Dittos on using lacquer thinner to clean the DA pad . NAPA sells the 3M Stikit, comes on a roll like paper towels.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shine

when i started there were no stick it's or hook it's . had to spray the pad with stick it adhesive. god what a mess. had to clean the pad all the time with lacquer thinner.
been using the hook it system for a long time.

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oh the good old days . heat up a putty knife to clean the gummy gooy goop off the pad . start putty some beef on the da glue would get soft then the sand paper would go air born

Thanks Dave, Pepi and Pat.
I didn't make it in town today, I wanted to do a couple past due oil changes before the 150 mile trec into town and back.
Beside with cleam mobile 1 motor oil I can make the trip on 1/4 tank of fuel and with old oil it takes over 1/2 a tank of fuel.
I guess I'll have to go with the original 'Hook it. Have you guys seen the skin zipper and if so have any of you used it.
If you have not here is their video, makes it look simple for only 35 bucks plus shipping. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gc6UoCe0b8k
I am going in to town tomrrow is the plan now anyway.
Kurt

Haven't used that one, but used similar.... I'll stick with my hammers and dollies---just what I'm used to using I guess.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vara4

Thanks Dave, Pepi and Pat.
I didn't make it in town today, I wanted to do a couple past due oil changes before the 150 mile trec into town and back.
Beside with cleam mobile 1 motor oil I can make the trip on 1/4 tank of fuel and with old oil it takes over 1/2 a tank of fuel.
I guess I'll have to go with the original 'Hook it. Have you guys seen the skin zipper and if so have any of you used it.
If you have not here is their video, makes it look simple for only 35 bucks plus shipping. Steck 21890 Skin Zipper - YouTube
I am going in to town tomrrow is the plan now anyway.
Kurt

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i have used some of steck stuff in the past . it looks better then the roller setup that never worked . i use to skin alot of doors at the shops i work at . i would be happy to tell you how i did them that worked of me with no filler. if you want to get a hold of me

I got the 3M hook and loop and used it on the truck a little today.
Oh man how nice it is not having to worry about the DA throwing the
sand paper at you every two minutes. I even caught a edge and it
just ripped it a little. Nope that thing ain't going no where with
the hook and loop, I love it, thanks for the great tips guys.
Gonna start on the other side tomorrow hopefully I get the
door skins on over the weekend. Thanks again Dave.
Kurt

Pat; what do you have a video of you doing a door skin???
I'll take any tips you have, I will probably be doing the door skins
tomorrow. I only have half skins and I was just going to go over the old.
But now that I have been thinking about it, I am gonna cut just above
the door body line, then put the new skin on. I'll take the doors off then
crimp all the edges of the new skin put the door back on and line everything up.
If all looks good then I'll spot weld accrossed the top of the new skin to hold
everything tight. Throw some dura - glass on and sand it down before painting it.
Kurt

you know i would do a video of doing skins and other metal work but never did some were there is a video of me painting a gto . you do not want to put the new skin over the old one if you only need the lower part were they rust you may only want to use what you would only need to fix the skin. as some of the stuff looks close but ends up short on the over all fit . if you have any questions happy to give you pointers if you want over the phone

Hey Pat;
Well if I have any question I'll give you a call.
My lower skin come up about 3 inches over the top body line in the door.
I was gonna cut the door just even with the top body line then I only
have flat sheet metal, about 3 inches worth behind the new lower skin
to spot weld too, only after I make sure everything lines up nice.
Kurt

You can but disc adhesive at NAPA, You paper may not have enough adhesive on it.

Don

Thanks Don; I have already got the 3M disc with the hook and loop and they work fantastic.
Except for the front hood and a few tight place that have to be sandblasted in body lines and stuff,
all the old paint has now been removed. Some places had as many as 6 differant paint colors.
I guess all the old owners of this truck didn't believe in removing old paint.
Oh just paint over it, it will look good as new. HE! HE! HE! Lots of dings and dent in the cab roof,
almost like they were up there banging on it. I think besides the rust holes in either door, that is the
worst place on the truck. it's not rusting up there but the bondo was all cracked so I have to remove it all,
then redo it with some Dura - Glass so it last.
Kurt

I took some pictures tonight of the progress but on the 3rd photo my digital camera died and I have no more batteries.
So tomorrow I'll make the 14 mile round trip in to town and get some new batteries so I can post photo's.
My son and I have been on it from sunrise to sunset for the last 3 days now and it's coming along good.
Kurt