Quick drive today
1934 Plymouth full chassis 472 Hemi - YouTube
Walk around:
34 Plymouth Coupe Walk Around - YouTube
Printable View
Quick drive today
1934 Plymouth full chassis 472 Hemi - YouTube
Walk around:
34 Plymouth Coupe Walk Around - YouTube
Thanks for the video, car looks great on the street!!!! Sure is a wild lookin' thing!!!
Hoosier Quick Time Pro's are on. Had a hard time finding a tire store willing to mount the bias ply with tubes tires. Still haven't found a shop that can balance them. I had to remove the white letters. Applied to sloppily.
Attachment 56220
Here's a pic of the mufflers. They fit into the tube about halfway or 3/4th the way in. The product is not square. Car Chemistry's web site states the pipes might not be straight. It's the product not the pipes. It will take some work to make them insert and be removable.
Attachment 56219
I still can't decide on a tail light. I like the chrome bullet below for an under-mount. It's for a motorcycle. Only has two wires - tail and stop. I think the stop wire can also work as turn.
Attachment 56221
Hot Rod LED Taillights these would work on the body. They are 3 wire for tail, stop, turn. Anyone know of their quality? or the seller?
Headlights from Headwinds should be here later in the week. They have a 39 Chevy radiator cowl mount that looks good and should fit my purpose. More to follow when it arrives.
AA6
I'm not familiar with the LED tail lamp in your link but RodWorx has an excellent reputation for quality lights, look here.
Mike
Impatient Creations, the shop that is getting my car street worthy, is making progress.
They have a great web site with pictures of all types of cars. This shop records with pictures like I've seen no other shop. It's impressive the amount of work they have. Some from customers overseas.
Impatient Creations
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04237.jpg
This picture below you can see the windshield wiper motor shaft poking through. Baffle inserts are in (upside down to put the bolt close to the opening making it easier to remove/install)
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04231.jpg
Tag with bolt lights are mounted. Kill switch relocated inward to make room for the chrome '37 Ford LED tail lights.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04232.jpg
Few other cars within close distance to mine:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04230.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04233.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04234.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04235.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04238.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04239.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04229.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04236.jpg
Looks like they do some really first rate work!!!
PS--If nobody is watching could you maybe hide that Road Runner in your pocket and sneak it out the door for me?????:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Thanks for the update and photos. I love the interior in that '57! $$$$$$$$$$
That Road Runner will be a perfect car - undercarriage and all.
1974 Plymouth Roadrunner
The 57 has an aftermarket tube chassis - looks 2 x 4.
1957 Chevy Convertible
For some reason I can't see the front page of this web site or upload photos.
Update:
Headlights are on solid. The Headwind's billet housing are a great product.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04358.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04370.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...DSC04359-1.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04354.jpg
The alternator bracketry is a work of art. Keeping it low was a priority. Had to change the coil to a street coil. The race only coil was for short duration and would have over heated.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04365.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04364.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04363.jpg
Car Chemistry baffles installed:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04356.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04355.jpg
The Mighty Wiper motor is so much smaller than the Speedway product:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04360.jpg
The 37 Ford LED Tail Lights are mounted:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04362.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/DSC04368.jpg
What's left:
Complete the wiring, install a few switches, and do some test runs.
My experience is with a larger Car Chemistry baffle as opposed to the individual zoomie pipes, but on mine I used one anchor point (a nut welded to the inside of the baffle ring), and over time the combination of exhaust heat and exhaust pressure deflected the entire baffle assembly toward the exhaust, creating significant leakage around the baffle. The CC baffle rings are something like 14 gauge metal, which is pretty thin. It might not be an issue with the smaller diameter tube/baffle interface, but I ended up trashing my CC baffles and making some from scratch using heavier materials.
The car is looking good, the street required equipment hasn't distracted from the overall killer look the car has, well done!
Time will tell. I'll probably start the car next week. There's not much to them for $50 a piece. My problem with them is they're not square. If made properly, there's no reason they couldn't slide in and out easily.
Alabama has a requirement for exhaust to be baffled without excessive noise.
Every motor vehicle shall at all times be equipped with a muffler in good working order and in constant operation to prevent excessive or unusual noise and annoying smoke, and no person shall use a muffler cut-out, bypass, a muffler without baffles or similar device upon a motor vehicle on a highway.
I might slide by?
I'm ready to ride! I've applied for the Chattanooga World of Wheels 11-13 January 2013. If accepted, you know I'll post pictures!
" Every motor vehicle shall at all times be equipped with a muffler in good working order and in constant operation to prevent excessive or unusual noise and annoying smoke, and no person shall use a muffler cut-out, bypass, a muffler without baffles or similar device upon a motor vehicle on a highway.
Certainly shows ya what bureaucrats know. Don't it..
An old mechanics trick, the first sign of smoke replace the muffler.
I went for a 10 mile drive today.
It's still really loud. I'm going to lower the idle so it's not so loud while idling. I think it will get me by. If not, I'll add the caps and some packing.
Steering is a work out.
There's condensation building in my United Pacific Halogen Headlights with internal LED turn signals. They haven't been wet yet.
I zip tied the 'chute closed.
I just received two Speedway 3" Peep Mirrors. Those will be going on tomorrow. Great product for $15 each.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/Slide1-2.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/Slide2-2.jpg
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http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/Slide4-1.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...6/Slide5-1.jpg
Quick ride in the car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-kfZj7dbZM
Inside view. Not the best quality. Didn't really get it above 3500rpm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7asw46SKYo
Thanks for the ride!!!
Having some issues with the steering not being strong enough for the street.
Attachment 58040 Attachment 58039 Attachment 58041Attachment 58042Attachment 58043
So do you still have that 40 spline spool????????????????????????an open differential will make the steering easier---------
I do still run the spool on the street. I'm sure that's part of my problem. Beefing up those front bars and more/better welds should work.
I ran a mini-spool in a Ford 8" on the street many years (I had TA Radials on that car).
I do still run the spool on the street. I'm sure that's part of my problem. Beefing up those front bars and more/better welds should work.
I ran a mini-spool in a Ford 8" on the street many years (I had TA Radials on that car).
I'd agree a spool is rough on the street, but I'm not a fan of an open differential if you have significant power. I really like the Detroit/Eaton TrueTrac, which is closer to a locker in operation than a posi, but is as friendly as a positrac for casual operation.
I've still got my "Saturday Night" gears on a spool, a set of 6.0's....Hopefully someday I might again have something that's worth putting them into!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL: A spool can be rough on most all of the suspension and steering on a car if you get into a place where you have to turn a bit too sharp!!!! The old noisy, clanking Detroit Locker is still IMO the toughest and most fool proof posi unit, but the new Tru-Trac units are as Roger said, a very smooth posi for the street!!
(But for Saturday night stoplight wars, 6.0's on a spool is still the most fun way to play!!!!!!!!:LOL::LOL:)
Yup, about that long!!!! Last car they were in was my Maverick with a 347 and my old trusty Dough Nash 5 speed----You start pulling the handle for second about the same time you drop the clutch in first, 2nd to 3rd gave you almost time to blink then the last two were a bit more spread out..... But it sure does make for one nasty launch!!!!!!!!!!
I second using a Detroit True-Track. I run one, and it acts like an open differential until you nail the throttle. It is a great way to go for cars like ours.
Wonder how they would hold up with big (500+) hp??? Our last couple years with late models on the dirt we played with the Gold Trac units, circle burner version of the Tru Trac and it did remarkable well!!! Took a lot of the throttle steer out of the car.... My pal Jim has it set up in a differential for his mod on dirt this summer, going to play with it some more in them.
Two things sold me on the TrueTrac - they're pretty much bullet proof for the engines we normally run, and as a spiral gear posi there are no clutches to wear and thus no additives to worry with.
Dave, we were typing at the same time. From Detroit/Eaton's FAQ list:How much horsepower and torque will the Truetrac take?
There are many factors to consider when determining if a specific differential will last in your vehicle. Horsepower and torque are important factors. However, the weight of the car, tire height/width, the terrain and suspension are all important things to take into consideration.
For example, a setup that uses street tires will live longer because both tires will break loose and spin before any real strain is put on the unit. But as the tire gets wider, the stress on the unit increases because the traction is greater. When in doubt, the best bet is to call us with your specific application and driving conditions.
I love how my Truetrac feels and acts but so far I only have about 1000 miles on it. It hooks very well when I hammer it but is perfectly smooth when turning or during maneuvers. Time will tell but I'm optimistic as to its durability even with ~550hp since the car is relatively light...not sure about exact weight yet but I figure maybe ~2250 lbs or so.
Thanks Roger, guess it'd be worth a phone call to see what they think but the statement you posted gives me doubts as to what would happen with the soft compound street slicks, 5 speed, and a bunch of power!!!! I might be stuck with old noisy and clanky, aggravating but they sure last!
Yeah, I can't disagree. The old Detroit Locker is tried & true, and they're not nearly so bad mannered as a Lincoln Locker or spool, they just advertise their presence with some clanks & bangs on tight turns.:LOL::LOL: I also noticed in that list of FAQ's that someone asked about repairs in the event of breakage, and they honestly said that if it broke it was usually in the support structure for the helical gears, making it non-repairable.:( If you call them let us know what they say.
Over the winter had the car painted inside and out. Changed the wheels and tires. Rechromed some items. Reconfigured the grille shell and insert. Added a damper.
I've been to the Detroit Autorama and the Atlanta Autorama this year. Should be at Goodguys Nashville next weekend.
It looks stupendous!! Nice work!
Good to see your still enjoying the car.. thanks for the update and the pics! Lookin' good..