I have the same battery mr. spears I have no problems at all. I do use welding cable thru out the car. I sure do like my little battery
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I have the same battery mr. spears I have no problems at all. I do use welding cable thru out the car. I sure do like my little battery
That's good to know, for sure. The guys at XS Power told me when I was originally shopping that the 680 worked fine for most small block applications, that they had a bunch of them out there, but the other day when we were talking about the problems a different guy asked if I could maybe put two of them in parallel. The answer is "no", but I can make a 925/975 fit, and it looks like I might even squeeze a 1200 into the available space with a little "vanity shield" to hide it a bit. Thanks for your input, Robot!!
Dennie, that's good to know, too. So maybe my little battery is just a weak one, and it will work OK. The only difference I see is my EFI, and the need for power to fire the injectors during crank. I just learned yesterday that my injectors fire in batch mode during crank, so it firing them all simultaneously which adds to the power requirement.Quote:
Originally Posted by sg4356
Now yer on to sumthin Roger.
As Dennie said, his bat is great, but he ain't go no electrics (per say} in that little roadster.
If ya can fit it in stuff the biggest in it ya can (CCA'S)
My ole grey memory just kicked in, used 1 of them small 1's in an LS6 powered 32 I did a few years ago and had the same problem your havin.
Swapped to a bigger battery and problem solved.
Also used all welding lead for cables.
Good luck
Don
Gee bigger battery needed, sounds just like something said way back in post #9. Thats 24 post back but who's counting. You cannot get 15 gallons of fuel from a 10 gallon can.
:D
It looks like a definitive answer on the old battery may not happen. I sent the battery back to XS Power last Tuesday for a complete load test in their lab, USPS Priority Mail in a flat rate box. It was to have been to Knoxville Friday, June 1 but has not yet arrived at their address. Having never had any issues in the past I did not pay the extra fees for tracking service or insurance, both bad decisions in hindsight, and the USPS will not look for it in their damaged package center until fifteen days after the date sent, which is Wednesday, June 13th. I really wanted to have their analysis of the battery strength to understand if the 680 size battery is good for the service. If it's not received by Friday I may be visiting Batteries Plus locally, who stock & sell the Odyssey line.
It probably got removed by TSA and you can expect the swat teams b desposal teams to show up any minute------
Get a BIGGER CCA and stuff it in and be here Sunday 4 the dead cow, and the LARS trip Roger.
It's all about the journey and the miles of smiles, not worrin about the little stuff.
As yer byline states.
Every time I ship a package USPS they routinely ask something like "any hazardous materials, liquids, blah blah blah...." and I always answer no. While in line the other day I glanced at the big poster of "forbidden" things and was surprised to see lithium batteries on there. Not sure if that matters in your case, but if they do random scans yours may have been kicked out of the flow for further consideration.
Sounds real good, Don, but I'm not one to cobble something together in a rush when it may not even be necessary. I have two friends running the same little battery (Dennie's one (sg4356 on here), and the other guy has two SBF's that are both fuel injected) that work just fine for them.
Now that's really interesting, Bob! I did answer "No" to that question, as the guys at both XS and Odyssey ship these batteries regularly, and they are classed as noted above. I called the PO, and the local Postmaster said that it should not have been a problem - routine x-ray, etc. He did say, "...not lithium?", and I told him it was a standard gell cell. Again, no way to check on it until fifteen days have passed.
Roger - sounds like an Odyssey PC925 is in your future if you have any doubts about the PC680 size:D. That PC680 does mine fine, but all I have electronically is the MSD (and of course, the tune player)
As far as USPS - been waiting for an Edelbrock rebuild kit that was sent priority mail last week. No clue where it is except the PO 'knows' it's in their system somewhere between Hither and Yon.
REMEMBER - the USPS is BILLIONS in the red, and that's just this month
:CRY::CRY:
OK, so I made a plywood box to check space, and it looks like moving the battery to the trunk is the only way to make this work and not look like caca - too many things were positioned based on that little battery volume. A question:
Charlie mentioned running the ground cable to the frame, then a short frame to block cable up front. In the trunk I have a very convenient body mounting bolt that threads into a nut welded into the frame, pinching the fiberglass body between the body brace plate & the frame (frame nut, anti-squeek body welting, fiberglass body, internal bracing plate, washer & bolt). Seems to me that putting the battery ground atop the internal brace plate, then using a similar bolt up front for the block ground will work fine. I have a 3/8" bolt into a nut welded into the frame on both ends carrying the current. Battery positive will penetrate the trunk floor and run direct from the (+) terminal to the starter, with a jumper to the bulkhead to get (+) power into the cabin. Sound OK to you guys?
Works for me. Years ago I put the battery in a 63 Econline van in the left rear corner and hooked it up the way you are describing, never had a bit of problem.
Agreed. The strap/cable at the engine end I like to fasten with one of the starter bolts, making doubly sure the highest draw item has a good ground.